Brings back memories of my first restoration project, back in the '60s -- a 1943 Willys Jeep. An occasionally refreshed roll of toilet paper kept her running.
years ago we dissected one as part of my oil filtration senior design project. The one thing I remember about the Wiks (at that time) was that the inner liner didn't have enough holes so there was a large pressure drop across the element. So, I've never bought one for myself.
I normally use Mobil1 but I keep back up Wix filters in stock at home. The Wix air filters I have used lately are Made in China. A big let down . Smart has been around long enough now for them to make them. I also use Wix cabin filters.
I'm a Mobil 1 filters as well, but the big issue is using a synthetic medium when the intervals are as long as 10K. The paper filters will break down over that time. I haven't cut a filter apart in 30 years, but the old Wiks didn't have enough holes in the center tube, which causes a larger pressure drop across the filter than is necessary (causes more oil to bypass the filter). I don't know whether they ever got around to changing that or not.
Wix makes many different store brand oil filters and is, today, considered one of the better filters made. Don't base your decision on a 30 year old experience.
Yor point us well-taken but I have no data to the contrary. I know even back then they wre highly thouht of. At the same time we cut open a Fram. It acrually had rusr on rhe inside! Are they still like that? I dont know but I saw enough and Ive never bought one since. Anyway, that is why I included the caveat.
Just wanna post an update since I found a Wix mentioned here.
I have been using OE Oil filters and Mobil 1 M108 for a while. My latest oil change was with a Wix 57040 oil filter.
First major observation. Oil pressure at hot idle is LOW, ~ 5psi. I have a a SPA Technique gauge installed for a while. Never had the pressure this low before and this is the only thing that has changed since the last oil change. May swap out back to OE filter to see if it goes away.
this would coincide with our original finding which was there was a large pressure drop across the filter due to insufficient number of holes in the center support and a bypass spring that was set on the high side.
Incidentally many filters have quite a low bypass setting which causes the filter to run in bypass mode most if the time. Most filters will do that during startup, but some do it pretty much all of the time since the bypass is set so low. The Fram we looked at was only around 2 psi (this was for the basic cheap Fram, not the new premium filter that they offer now)! Of course the best is a filter that has lower resistance (generally one with more filter area) so that high filter flow is maintained without a large pressure drop.
I've been using a Bosch oil filter, the case is of heavier gauge metal and the filter media is synthetic, not paper, so it's perfect for extended intervals found with synthetic oils. The gasket is synthetic as well, harder than the rubber found in most filters so you need to check to ensure there's no deformities or it might leak. (past experience)
My Dad's Chevy Cruze air filter was a pita to find, (Advanced Auto) had it for half of the Fram at Maul-Mart.
Oil filters too...
Construction (materials) seemed better too...
I use mobil 1 m-108 since 0 miles. Change mobil 1 0-40 synthetic every 5000 miles myself up to current 63800 miles. 0.0 problems with anything....just not having enough time to drive the convertible as I would like.
In reality we aren't exactly dealing with a high revving exotic here. Since most everyone is running full synthetic I am guessing most any filter out today won't be the cause of problems. Neglect and abuse will be the major cause of any engine problem. What ever a person usually uses he thinks is the best. Just my 2 cents.
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