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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 06:38 PM
 
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Foolios: "Do you know how many watts the traction battery will provide for charging the 12v battery?"
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No, it would be a good thing to know, though. If you are thinking about a high-draw accessory, you are limited by the fuse for whatever circuit you are connecting it to though. And most accessories in the Smart are controlled by the SAM - damaging that is a very expensive repair.

"Dang, how often does this happen? I have a 2014 ED, can I add some sheathing to the wiring at that point to protect it from that issue?"
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I think the wear problem is primarily in the rear quarter-panel area - near the charge receptacle behind the plastic interior trim panel in front of the taillight access panel. The drivetrain control unit, the wires to the onboard charger, and a several wire bundles are packed in this space and one or two wire bundles can wear on metal frame parts in this area. It was bad design.

Last edited by Yinzer; 03-22-2019 at 07:07 PM.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 06:48 PM
 
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Originally Posted by johnyoung39 View Post
Thanks, Zinzer for the info regarding the type of 'jump start' the 12-volt system needed. I thought that the small jump assist units out there, like the Halo I used, would do it, but no, they won't.
Happy to see the ordinary jump worked!

Besides the Smart, I find it hard to believe that these Halos can actually crank an IC engine car if a battery is completely dead. One would think that once connected in parallel with a much larger capacity dead battery, their voltage would sag too much to turn the starter. They might work with a marginally low battery maybe, but not a completely dead one like when you leave a dome light on for a few days.

Until I see one work myself, I'll file them under "gimmick". They way they give their capacity in milliwatt-hours to make the number look more impressive was the hint I needed.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 07:39 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Yinzer View Post
Foolios: "Do you know how many watts the traction battery will provide for charging the 12v battery?"
-------
No, it would be a good thing to know, though. If you are thinking about a high-draw accessory, you are limited by the fuse for whatever circuit you are connecting it to though. And most accessories in the Smart are controlled by the SAM - damaging that is a very expensive repair.
Thanks for the info about the harness wires. I'ma gonna add some kind of protection around the wires.

Well, I was thinking of drawing directly from the battery via a separate fused load. I don't wanna draw through any other wiring or accessory. I was hoping I could find out how many watts the traction battery will provide to keep the 12v battery from running too low. But then now that you mention it, I wonder if there is a fuse from the traction battery to the 12v battery. If so, that would tell me what the max watts I could draw before blowing that fuse.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 09:49 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Foolios View Post
Well, I was thinking of drawing directly from the battery via a separate fused load..... But then now that you mention it, I wonder if there is a fuse from the traction battery to the 12v battery. If so, that would tell me what the max watts I could draw before blowing that fuse.
According to page 21 of the ED General Service Information (see one of the stickys above) there is a 12V charging prefuse between the power electronics control unit (in the engine compartment) and the battery. The physical location of the fuse or its value, I don't know.

Last edited by Yinzer; 03-24-2019 at 11:32 AM.
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