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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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2009 smart fortwo won't start

I have a 2009 smart fortwo coupe that will not start. when I turn the key on there is no lights come on on the cluster, tern signals work, radio works, lights woek, wipers work,dome light works, but nothing comes on on the instrument cluster and I can not move the shift lever out of park. Also thebrake lights do not work. I have tested the battery and I get 12 volt, battery passes a load test. The 3 fuses in the battery compartment are good, all the fuses in the fuse box are good. I have removed the brake light switch and it tested good. When I turn the key on I hear what sounds like a relay click in I think the fuse box and one that clicks back in the engine compartment. When I tun the key to start I hear another relay click under the dash. I have tried reseting the cluster and still nothing. Can anyone help?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 04:32 PM
 
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Wow perked, this seems like an electrical issue for sure. You said you checked the fuses... OK, but there are numerous locations for fuses. The brake lights not working may have something in common. Besides fuses under the dash, I believe there are fuses in the glove box, and possibly some in the engine compartment.
You may also try checking all electrical connectors in the engine bay. I hope someone else can provide more info... sure would like to know the cause.
You may want to change your screen name to "parked" until you get this sorted out.
Don't give up, this is a talented group.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 07:35 AM
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If the brake light switch is bad (no brake lights) the car will not start. smart doesn't want you driving with no brake lights.....
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have removed the brake light switch and it tested good.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 12:33 PM
 
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Start with the easy stuff see if you have 12 volts before the switch activate the switch see if you have 12 volts after the switch and I’m sure there is a wire that goes to the shifter to activate the shift lock so see if your getting power there
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 12:58 AM
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Hello Perked. The easiest thing is to start from the battery and work your way from there. Check the fuse marked F91 in the picture. If you have a multimeter or a 12 volt test light of some sort you can check to see if you have power on the wire AFTER the fuse. Set your multimeter on the 20 volt scale in order to read 12 volts on the car electrical system.Connect your meter or test light with the ground of the meter/light on the negative terminal at the battery. Then the positive wire to the battery plus lead and check for voltage. Then the wire right before the fuse and then after the fuse. A fully charged battery should be around 12.4 volts. Anything below 11 volts is for all intents and purposes dead. With the vehicle running and it charging you should get around 13.8 to 14.2 volts.

Maybe loosen up of the black ground battery cable and check it where it contacts the car (just above the F58 in the picture). The grounds are notorious for corroding and that could be your culprit. Next I would remove and clean the battery terminals and battery posts with sandpaper or a wire brush. DO this even if they don't appear dirty.
If that all checks out try putting jumper cables on it from another car or connect a battery charger and turn on the key and look for dash lights just to double check the condition of the battery. If jumper cables work or the battery charger causes you to have dash lights then you probably have a faulty battery or one that just needs recharged.

Worst case scenario is that you have a faulty computer on the car and it is called the SAM. It is the entire fuse box as a unit. It controls all the basic functions of the car on conjunction with the instrument cluster. Without the SAM working nothing on the car will do anything. It would take a long time to write all the reasons why you could have a dead Smart. But this should help you to begin troubleshooting. DCO


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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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The brake switch does not have any power going to it.
I spoke with a Benz mechanic on the phone and he seems to think the ignition switch is bad and not communicating with the computers but he can not say for sure without havinh the car.
I realy don;t want to haul the car 150 miles to be at the mercy of a dealer.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 05:06 AM
 
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I do not kow where the brake switch is on the smart... or how it is wired. But, did you check that with the brake pedal depressed, or would that even make a difference.
I guess if it is the ignition switch, you could get one from one of the many part outs, on this site and others. But since you have so many other components that do work, this really is enough to drive one to drink! It might be time to look for some wiring diagrams... have you checked Evilution?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
 
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The brake switch is under the car in a compartment and is activated by the brake pedal arm. The switch itself is a double pole double throw type. There is 4 wires on this switch, 2 are suppose to be 12 volt going to the switch.
In the non braking position one set of contacts are connected and sends 12 volt out, when the brake pedal is depressed the switch disconnects that set of contacts and connects the other set of contacts to send 12 volt out via the other wire which I assume goes to the shifter release and probably activates the brake lights and who knows what else..
Since I do not have 12 volt getting to the switch the bad ignition switch idea makes since, as the ignition switch tells the SAM and the ECM what to do. I can get an ignition switch from a wrecked smart but it will not work with my car or key. I would still need to take the car to a dealer to have the ignition switch programed to the car and my key programed to the switch but I don;t think a programed key can be re-programed to a different car so I would need to buy a new switch. I can also get a switch with key from a wrecked smart but a dealer would still need to program the switch to my car. Before I did any of this I would want to make sure the switch is the problem. I have gone over every inch of wiring and every connector I can get to without taking the car completely apart. Nothing on evolution concernig this problem.
I was also told by a local mechanic that the key could have lost sync. with the switch.
Do any of you have a spare key for your smart that is just the blade with no fob, this type of key would be for unlocking the door and it will fit into the ignition but will not start the car.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:09 AM
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Just guessing, but if the ignition switch was bad you wouldn't get all the normal lights when you turned it to position 1. The indications you have are no instrument cluster and no power to the brake switch - what do they have in common?

You mentioned hearing a click from the rear - need to check and see if that is the clutch actuator. If it is, it's getting a signal to depress the clutch in preparation for starting.

Impossible to diagnose this online - if there's a local shop that does Mercedes work and has a STAR machine it would be worth having them check it out.
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