Bad Knocking near or in bell housing (release bearing and arm) - Page 2 - Smart Car Forums
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:01 AM
 
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It is a pivot arm that contacts the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. It should not Co e in contact with the metal clutch or bell housing except where it attaches to the pivot.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by Smart Bob View Post
It is a pivot arm that contacts the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. It should not Co e in contact with the metal clutch or bell housing except where it attaches to the pivot.
Ok. Well I can definitely push/pull that actuator arm and knock it against the bell housing. So did you ever do a write up or can you recommend one for cracking the bell housing open? Can it be done in situ or do I need to lower the engine? I have 2 jack stands, 1 small floor jack, 1 large heavy duty jack. I am not even sure jack stands will give me enough height to drop the bell housing out from under the car.

So any and all tips/hints/advice here is welcome. I can start tearing it apart this week and spend a few hours each evening on it.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:20 PM
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Here's a video for a 450 but the clutch is very similar to the 451:


451 video shows everything up to removing the bell housing but that should be similar to other cars:
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ive got the back tore down and wheels loose. I just need to get it on stands and start tearing the rest apart.

Im doing all this on the ground. I see in photos from FQ that they put jack stands under the car but I cant tell exactly where.

It says in front of engine subframe. Do they mean the large round u shaped pipe that makes up the engine subframe itself? So I just put jack stands right under the subframe pipe or do they mean there are points behind the subframe front car side that can be used?

Its hard to tell. I haven't dropped the belly pan plastics and I didnt want to if not needed.

Can I get away with stands right on the engine subframe itself?
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 04:53 AM
 
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Yeah the large round tube I have put jack stands on there many times to hold my back end off the ground. Just use the regular jack point in front the rear tire that will get you enough room to slide the stand under them
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks, that's what I needed to know.

Now I can get this thing up in the air and tear the rest apart. It really didn't take long to tear the back gate and panels off and I dont expect it will take much time to tear down the rest. I just hope the issue is in the clutch and not bottom end of motor.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ive been taking my time tearing things down. Im at the step where i need to unbolt the gearbox. The guide says support the engine and gearbox with some jacks. Where do I jack the motor? There is nowhere on bottom of engine to jack at. Just oil pan/sump.

It even says to slightly jack the side of the motor to allow clearance to drop the gearbox. I just dont see anywhere safe to do it.

Any advice or guides please tell me. Ive been using the fq guide but the pics there dont match all the spots on mine as its a 451.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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Transmission is out and on the floor. All the guides I found were for the 450 model and the 451 transmission is a bit different on mounting bolts, brackets, jack points etc.


The dog bone and top right mount will help hold the motor. You can support the bottom of the motor right at the bellhousing split and dog bone mount. Good heavy metal there as a jack point. There is plenty of play and movement on the motor.

Then support the transmission on a transmission jack, diy platform jack, or what I used was a motorcycle platform jack.

Then you can play with the motor and transmission movement to crack it open. Pull as straight as possible towards driver side to pull it off the alignment studs. You do have to play a bit and angle the motor and tranny downwards to get it clear. If I had known how light it was, I would have just laid underneath and pulled it. I used the platform jack to help catch it since I wasn't sure of the weight

One little tip.

I for the life of me couldnt figure out how to remove the shifter linkage cable. Turns out that little sucker pops off a ball socket joint. The white plastic collar is spring loaded just push the collar up like an air chuck attachment and pull the whole assembly up and out of the u bracket it sits in.

In my case here the release bearing and arm are busted. Just like the guys video one page back. My bearing is broken off the release arm and the arm has a ton of play. Im fairly sure that is the cause of my issues.

Strange thing is, mine still shifted smooth and drove.
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