Rough idle and misfire codes - Page 2 - Smart Car Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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#2 plug gap too small.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:17 PM
 
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#2 plug gap too small.

I’m sure that would create an issue . Easy remedy !
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:40 AM
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My Fortwo is a 2011 and I lived this nightmare with only 36,000 on the odometer. You can replace part after part trying to alleviate the problem, but the first and easiest tell all step is to pull the plugs and do a compression test. It can be several things that you can test your way through, but a compression test will be the tell all. I am of the opinion there was a batch of 2011's that had valve problems, some may disagree with that but I have read several times on this forum of a 2011 having burned valves. I'm sure it could be other years also but it seems some 2011's had problems and some didn't. Could be anything from a spark plug to a coil pack to a vacuum leak or even a crank sensor. You should get reading of around 150 to 160 per cylinder. At 90 pounds on a single cylinder you will notice a miss. In the 50 to 60 pound range on all the cylinders an engine most likely will not start. When you only have 3 cylinders and you start to lose one you notice it. In a V8 not so much. DCO
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Checked the valve adjustment. Intakes all in spec. Exhaust all too tight. One valve I couldn't even fit the thinnest gauge into it. Guess I have to pull the cam and change some tappets. At least the engine is as clean as new.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:59 PM
 
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That is a clean head there’s no sign of gunk. Didn’t take you long to pull the valve cover off
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 03:45 AM
 
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Same rough idle, loose power, and sputtering with CEL

My 2008 Smart had a similar problem at around 97000 miles..rough idle, loose power, and sputtering with CEL light on(not flashing). Diagnosed as bad ignition coil on cylinder 1, so replaced that. Also replaced valve cover gaskets as well as spark plugs as there were lots of oil at the top of spark plugs. Those fixed the problem.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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Pulled the exhaust cam to adjust the valves.

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 12:53 PM
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Yoy may have to have the shim buckets machined down if the are way out of spec. Did you do a compression check on it?
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 08:47 PM
 
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If you machined the bucket shims they must be re-hardened again, as the hardened surface is thin and would be removed if machined or ground. An unhardened shim will soon wear and distort.


Recommend just buying new ones the correct thickness.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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No use in doing a compression test before a valve adjustment if they are out of adjustment.
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