HOW-TO: Step by Step Curt/Uhaul Hitch Install (LOT OF PICS!)l - Page 3 - Smart Car Forums
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post #21 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-24-2012, 02:33 PM
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Jim did not actually take the lower panel off, he just loosened one end and moved it out of the way.

Great job on the pictures and how to.
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post #22 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 01:41 PM
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We used your instructions today as my son put a hitch on my Bumblebee. It was his first time to do any work on a smart. He's calling it The pregnant Bumblebee.

I've named my smart Sunshine.

Last edited by jkjahobbs; 06-22-2013 at 09:28 AM. Reason: Add smart's name.
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post #23 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 08:04 PM
 
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Curt Hitch AND Borla Exhaust?

I'm waiting to see if anyone tries to fit both the Borla exhaust with the Curt hitch. (or similar system if there's a cheaper alternative)

http://www.borla.com/products/fortwo...t__140299.html

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post #24 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-20-2013, 04:12 PM
 
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Installed the wrong thing first?

I already installed the hitch, but now I want to install my Boesch center exhaust. Any chance I can fiddle the exhaust above the hitch without uninstalling the hitch?
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post #25 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-21-2013, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stevnjessie1 View Post
I already installed the hitch, but now I want to install my Boesch center exhaust. Any chance I can fiddle the exhaust above the hitch without uninstalling the hitch?
I've done it before. It can be done. It has been a while and I did have the car on a lift.



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post #26 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 10:18 AM
 
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You're right, it was a peice of cake. Many Thanks
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post #27 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-14-2014, 10:35 AM
 
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Thanks, Kermit! You made my life a lot easier today when I installed my hitch. Here are pictures of the parts that come with the hitch. First, the bolts, nuts and the spacers that go inside the frame rails to hold the bolts:




And here are the spacers that go between the hitch and the frame, the fish wires and the washers that are used when reinstalling the serpentine belt cover:




Next up is wiring up the flat 4 trailer connector - but that has to wait until Amazon gets the rest of my order here.
-Bob
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post #28 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-15-2014, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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You're welcome and thanks for adding pics of the items I forgot to add pics of.



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post #29 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-15-2014, 10:15 PM
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The no grind method is far easier to do once you understand that by sliding the inner bumper left to fish the bolts thru on the right side and then sliding it to the right to fish bolts for the left side, grinding is no longer necessary. One does still have to drill the missing hole for the middle bolt on the right side.
It is not necessary to temporarily mount the hitch, mark the center hole for the right side, remove the hitch and drill the hole. Simply mount the hitch drill through the hitch hole thru the frame. You are now ready to start using the fish wires to place the bolts.
It is important to remember that the hitch and or bike rake now mounted behind the Brabus or other center mount exhaust will become heated the longer the engine is running. One could be burned. The locking pins on my Swagman bike rack do get hot, even though I do not travel long distances with it. The longer you travel, the hotter and more likely burns could happen. Just keep it in mind.
So far, I'm really impressed with the Swagman/Curt combination. Mounting and dismounting the bikes from the bike rack could not be easier. I did add two tow bolt adapters that allow me to easily secure two turnbuckles to prevent twisting and sway of the bike rack.
The two ratchets that clamp the bikes in place eliminate all straps. Great and fast improvement over my previous rack with all it's straps and knots. The ratchets even have a hole for a lock to lock the bikes to the rack.

Last edited by BB Benz; 06-15-2014 at 10:41 PM.
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post #30 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-16-2014, 05:50 AM
 
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What do you guys do to corrosion-proof the newly drilled holes? Are you not worried they will eventually rust out?
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