HOW-TO: Step by Step Curt/Uhaul Hitch Install (LOT OF PICS!)l - Page 5 - Smart Car Forums
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post #41 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015, 12:41 AM
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I put mine on laying in the street, no garage, or driveway. I went with the remove the rear bumper support and I thought it was much easier than the cutting of the existing holes to a keyhole shape. My Curt hitch came with a spring\wire thing to help put the bolts in, you thread the bolt into the spring and use the wire to pull it through the holes. Worked well. One of the bolts on the bumper bar (on each side) was a pain to get to, and the belt cover on the pass side of the motor was a pain, but overall, not too bad. After a week or so I went back and re-torqued all the bolts. itch is not that heavy to hold in position when bolting it in place. But I think I use a couple of blocks of wood just to be sure.

Good luck with Arthur
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post #42 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015, 03:05 PM
 
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I just went outside to play about with removal of the rear bumper support. I got the photos and greatly appreciate the person who sent them to me. That support piece has some hidden torqs screws to it that are difficult at best to remove. My car wasn't jacked up, but I was laying on my back in the driveway and trying to locate them. Very tight area for an old tub of lard as myself to be wedged into.

Any rate, for some odd reason they decided to screw them into place in various directions and none seem all that easy to simply remove by hand alone. Not sure just how many are there, but until they are removed, the plastic support won't release and drop down. I had just mowed my grass out front, to laying on the hot cement driveway was just not my cup of tea. The cup of tea I have in the dining room is much more enticing and refreshing, so I'll tackle the rest of the rear bumper support removal project in the morning when it is cool outside and I have the car up on jackstands and metal ramps so I can see. May take some photos then, too.

While there, no leaks noted from my oil change of late. Good for me on that task. I didn't know how to reset the trip meter on my first tank of gas in the car, so the mileage is off a bit, but only by 20 miles more or so. As is, it calculated at 36 mpg, but half of that was on the old plugs and old fluids. Not accurate, but close enough to make me glad the car is getting much better gas mileage already than my old Nissan Quest was doing that it replaced.

I believe the torx bolts I am trying to remove now on the bumper support are the T27's. I have a reducer to swap the 3/8" drive to my smaller 1/4" drive and that may give me some additional leeway on those pesky bolts. My 1/4" drive is also one that allows several angles to be allowed for at the head. Got to move the car to the more level front street and start from scratch tomorrow. Thanks for the additional info, pics and video.
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post #43 of 49 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 03:58 PM
 
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Well, I gt out on the hot pavement today to see if I could lift the Smartie up high enough to put on the hitch. Epic fail on my part. I used a motorcycle jack, a trolly jack with hockey puck and I still could not lift the car high enough to slide the jack stands under the rear of the frame. It lacked a good 4" to be high enough to slide my jack stands beneath the frame at the rear of the car. Maybe I chose the wrong area to put the jack stands, but I just didn't feel safe in jacking the car up higher than I had it. I probably could have lifted the car a bit higher with the motorcycle jack, but I just didn't feel comfotable in doing that. Guess this project will wait until I can find a local station that will allow me to use their lift.

Not sure how others did it like this, but I would rather be safe than sorry, so I let it all down and considered myself lucky. Is there some other area
better suited for jacking the car up high enough to slide in a pair of jack stands? This pair was set at the lowest level and it still would have taken another good 4" to slide them into place safely.

I have some metal ramps, but the jack would not bring the car up high enough to allow them to be slid beneath the rear tires. I am hesitant to try to drive up on them, as a fellow who was in line when I bought them said they always creeped forward when he tried to drive up on his. Hand brake onand wheels chocked.

What was your trick to raising your Smart Car high enough to put jack stands beneath it? The ground was level where I was working on it today.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...psutkvdhei.jpg
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post #44 of 49 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 04:31 PM
 
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Just back up onto your ramps. I do it all the time. No problem.
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post #45 of 49 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 06:01 PM
 
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Smart Bob,
1. Do your ramps ever move on you like the fellow was saying that his did?Mine are Harbor Freight metal ramps.
2. Do you use the jack stands also when using your ramps?
3. Do you ever raise the front end with jacks while your car is up on the ramps at the rear?

I'll try this out later, as we have a city garage sale to go to tomorrow.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

Last edited by coupe1942; 05-02-2015 at 04:10 AM.
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post #46 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 07:53 PM
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Kermit what kind of "plug do you have installed in the ends of the pipe on your engine cradle? I need to find something to plug the ends of mine but haven't found anything that will work yet and looks good.Thanks.
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post #47 of 49 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Those are drains from Lowes. Lol. About $2 each.



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post #48 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 12:00 PM
 
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I just installed the Curt hitch to my 451 and can report the following: The steel bumper comes loose with the removal of 3 screws on each side. Access is good, there is no advantage to removing the valance. Once loose, you can gently pry the gap created to have enough room to feed in the bolts and plates into the ends of the frame. You only need to put the hitch in place one time, and bolt it up. There are no holes to elongate and only a single 1/2" hole to drill. This hole will be drilled with the hitch in place. The hole drills nicely in one step, no pilot hole is needed. The hitch acts as a drill guide. Remember to put the middle spacers in place before feeding the fishwire!

On my car, one of the long bolts would not reach the threads in the frame, as the frame sagged down a little. The cure is to place a jack under the receiver and lift the hitch and frame up a little.

The only downside of this hitch is the low height. The bottom of the receiver hole is only 6" off the ground(!). Compare that to 10" high on our PT Cruiser, which is also fairly low. I got the hitch to mount our HitchRyder recumbent trike rack. It seems like it will work, but I will be wary of large speed bumps and low dips entering driveways.
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post #49 of 49 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 09:44 PM
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The receiver works to protect the bottom of the car when you do hit a bump. D rather it scrape than the gags tank.
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