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Discussion Starter #1
Well with all the parts I’ve put into the car I’m now up to $1500 total. New alternator since it was seized, serpentine belt replaced have an extra even, new starter, new plugs, new coils, new fuel pump even though old one was working just to rule out the crank no start, new crank shaft sensor, no oil and antifreeze mixed together, rebuilt the shift motor on the car. Detailed the inside and then.....got a inline spark plug tester I have spark. Disconnected fuel line from before the rail and have fuel, injectors pulled by removing the two bolts and cranking and the injectors are firing so I have fuel I have spark, I then got out the dreaded compression tester and ....0 compression one 1 0 compression on 2 and 15 psi on 3. So I’m thinking bent valves possibly definitely not warped head bc no fluid mixing maybe jumped time. But that’s where I am. Now I’m hunting for a motor to swap out before Christmas or get the engine rebuilt. The machine shop said that if there’s no liner then it’s not rebuildable and he said with everything I’ve done most likely it’s just a head and valves bc it isn’t mixed together. No codes are thrown so that’s why I changed the obvious stuff I usually do when I get a new car from someone. The neglected things....
 

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I would pull the head and check the cylinder bores for damage from bad piston rings.
If the bores show damage the engine is pretty much done as the only way to get oversized pistons and rings are from over seas(still not cheap) the block is aluminum so it’s possible it can be bored and honed.
It’s just matter of finding a machine shop that can do aluminum blocks.(most should)
Honestly I would just get a low mileage engine from a wrecked smart and swap your worn one for it given the money and hassle.(Mercedes only sells the regular pistons and rings here in the us not the oversized ones for boring out the block those come from germany)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well finding a motor is the issue in the St. Louis area all the motors are near Chicago or California or something and they want $2300 for it delivered when for that price wouldn’t it be better to see if a machine shop would rebuild it and have a brand new motor
 

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Woah that’s not cheap.
You might be better off to get a wrecked one as a donar car that has low miles to get the engine from.
If that doesn’t work out then you would likely have to get it rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can they rebuild these motors though? Shop I was looking at around here I have to pull the motor anyways, but he said he’s never seen one so he doesn’t know if they are rebuildable. But cost is $1500-2000+ either way since he’s a machine shop i have to bring him the motor
 

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Most cars nowadays have aluminum block engines and they can be bored and honed out provided the cylinder walls aren’t scoured so bad they can’t work with it(it’s possible but rare)
If the machine shop hasn’t seen one I would try to find one that has worked on a smart engine before but it’s really a Mitsubishi engine under the Mercedes name(there is a few Mitsubishi models that had the three cylinder engine so it’s possible they may have worked on one that’s the same and didn’t know it.)
 

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Most cars nowadays have aluminum block engines and they can be bored and honed out provided the cylinder walls aren’t scoured so bad they can’t work with it(it’s possible but rare)
If the machine shop hasn’t seen one I would try to find one that has worked on a smart engine before but it’s really a Mitsubishi engine under the Mercedes name(there is a few Mitsubishi models that had the three cylinder engine so it’s possible they may have worked on one that’s the same and didn’t know it.)
Actual the major cars still have iron blocks with aluminum heads. Any aluminum block engines, are fitted with a iron sleeves. that can be bored out. The failure of the Chevy Vega, was the use of just a aluminum block, with out a iron cylinder sleeve.

Its not cost effective to rebuild a smart car engine. No one would do that. You might find a remanufactured short blocks. I’d look for a good used salvage engine.
 

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Actual the major cars still have iron blocks with aluminum heads. Any aluminum block engines, are fitted with a iron sleeves. that can be bored out. The failure of the Chevy Vega, was the use of just a aluminum block, with out a iron cylinder sleeve.

Its not cost effective to rebuild a smart car engine. No one would do that. You might find a remanufactured short blocks. I’d look for a good used salvage engine.
Google gm’s north star engine failures.
Only truck engines are cast iron and even they are going aluminum.
Read and learn.
The blocks that are aluminum, have cast iron sleeves. A pure aluminum block, will not hold up. Ask Vega owners.
 

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Most aluminum OEM automotive engine blocks use dry, gray iron cylinder sleeves in their engines. A dry sleeve is either cast into or press fit into the bore of the block. The aluminum bore transfers heat from the sleeve to the coolant contacting the bore.
 

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The reasion I wanted you to clear it up is I’ve seen a aluminum engine block and it didn’t have the sleeves you mention unless they was cast as it was seamless where they was at.
This was at my local dealer that had to rear down a aluminum engine from a jaguar that had engine damage.
 

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The blocks that are aluminum, have cast iron sleeves. A pure aluminum block, will not hold up. Ask Vega owners.
Ah yes the chevy Vega, but those cylinders were lined with silicone (if I remember correctly) soooooo hard, a diamond infused hone was needed to smooth the cylinder walls, according to chevy engineers.
I remember the line "Fill the oil and check the gas.)
Even with exploding gas tanks I liked the Pinto more, especially the 1977 the Pinto Cruising Wagon with the porthole window.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I’m starting the removal of the engine assembly. Watched a video on YouTube 2013 smart car engine removal. Guy doesn’t show you exactly what he’s doing....but once it’s out he shows the pointers of removing the engine as in what all needs to be disconnected and what not. I have the starter out, the brake lines labeled and loose not disconnected bc I’m taking it in steps bc I work everyday. I disconnected the fuel lines I needed to. I disconnected the drivers side bundle of wires minus I have to remove the shifter cable bracket and the air box bottom portion, then I have to disconnect the radiator lines and e brake cables which I can’t see what the trick is to that part. And to disconnect the passenger side bundle of wires. Hardest part I’m pondering is how to lower the assembly bc I have one floor jack my driveway is old asphalt that’s uneven, and I don’t know how high I need to jack the car up more to get ready to lower the assembly out? Once down I can remove and hang the ac compressor and take the stretchy belt off
 

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If you want you can remove the rear bumper and aprons to make getting out from under the car a bit easier.
If you have any large wooden blocks you can use them in place of a jackstand(I did that on mine when I put new tires on before I started driving it)
 

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...then I have to disconnect the radiator lines and e brake cables which I can’t see what the trick is to that part. And to disconnect the passenger side bundle of wires.
For the calbes into the e-brake? They're retained by bulbs on the cables, kindof like how a bicycle's brakes hook into the handlever if that makes any sense. If I've misunderstood, try and make another pass at describing the part and I'll try to tell you how I did it. You have to have the e-brake in the released position, it should just separate without any real effort on your part...one of the interesting designs they used, it's kinda neat really.

Hardest part I’m pondering is how to lower the assembly bc I have one floor jack my driveway is old asphalt that’s uneven, and I don’t know how high I need to jack the car up more to get ready to lower the assembly out? Once down I can remove and hang the ac compressor and take the stretchy belt off
I don't know this is the right way, but it's what I did. I had my one floor jack, 2 jackstands, and my usual blocks of cribbing (not required, but I feel a whole lot safer)...

I put the lowering bolts in while the car is down and then basically raise the car body up and off it using the jacking points.I put the jackstand in place as soon as it clears and I put some cribbing in too. The cribbing I put in on the other side of the jackstand, the side closer to the front wheels if that makes any sense. Then I go to the other side and repeat the process and then alternate sides, lifting each side a few inches at a time, adding more cribbing, raising the floorjacks, etc. I would disconnect and make notes of each part as I disconnected it to help me on reassembly. I also put all fasteners I remove into a plastic sandwich bag, label the bag with what they secured, and toss them in a box for later. When I'm reaching into the gap between the car body and the subframe, I put 2x4 (later 4x4) blocks into the areas between them so that if anythign fails, it can't come down and crush my arms. Slow and easy, it's real easy to stretch things if you aren't looking. I presume you've found the black plastic retaining block for the brake lines and wheel sensors? If not, follow them with your hand and in about 10 inches you should find it, 10mm as I recall. It's plastic so shouldn't ever corrode; that will give you several more inches of travel before you have to disconnect the brakes and sensor cables.

I believe on the Canadian clubsmartcar.com someone, prehaps Tolsen, suggests using the two rearmost bolts as lowering bolts when put in the front holes. If you don't have and can't get some lowering bolts it might be worth the effort to search the site and find the desription. I have never tried it, but it might be of use.

My parts car still has the rear panel and wheel well skirts off so let me know if images might help and I'll try to take some.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Images are always a plus I appreciate the advice I’m not too afraid to tackle the chore it’s just the first time I am working on this car type. You have a front fender from your parts car on the driver side? I’m still looking online for that also. Right now I have the car on jack stands I’m going to take the four bolts out then I’ll lift the body off it from there.
 

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Images are always a plus I appreciate the advice I’m not too afraid to tackle the chore it’s just the first time I am working on this car type. You have a front fender from your parts car on the driver side? I’m still looking online for that also. Right now I have the car on jack stands I’m going to take the four bolts out then I’ll lift the body off it from there.
Unfortunately, my parts car is in the process of becoming my second car. I bought it as a junker for parts and along the way decided I would try to get it running. I'm mechanically inclined, but this is the first engine swap I've done and I've learned a lot. There's certainly the possibility that I will screw somethig up (or have already and dont know it yet) and it will become a parts car again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah i found another 2013 that’s for sale that’s chameleon plastidipped for $3k I’m debating saving and getting it and then fixing the one I have later with a motor replacement. Weather getting cold so not too sure I will have time to tackle the swap when I have to wait in paydays to get the stuff I need
 

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Why isn’t this engine worth re-building (as some here point out ) ? Why is the motor considered throw away ? I find it hard to believe there is a modern motor not worth rebuilding to gain a margin of performance and reliability , even if it’s not a racing motor , nothing like a hand built / attention to detail motor build .
 
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