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Why isn’t this engine worth re-building (as some here point out ) ? Why is the motor considered throw away ? I find it hard to believe there is a modern motor not worth rebuilding to gain a margin of performance and reliability , even if it’s not a racing motor , nothing like a hand built / attention to detail motor build .
The point at which it overheats and warps the head isn't far above operating temps, so it's quite likely it would need to be resurfaced as well. Once you add up all the parts and expense, a replacement starts looking pretty good. I went that route for exactly that reason, plus if you aren't doing the work yourself, the price increases rapidly.
 

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Why isn’t this engine worth re-building (as some here point out ) ? Why is the motor considered throw away ? I find it hard to believe there is a modern motor not worth rebuilding to gain a margin of performance and reliability , even if it’s not a racing motor , nothing like a hand built / attention to detail motor build .
It’s is really expensive to find someone to rebuild a engine. Cost more, then the car is worth. that’s why they offer remanufactured ones, or you could find a salvage one. Some manufacturing companies, if you buy an engine from them. You can turn in your old engine core. You have a limited warranty, on the remanufactured engine.


 

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A rebuilt factory fresh motor would be my choice .. 4 sure , although I would love to dive into a rebuild myself and learn a bunch, I do have the factory service manual that I refer to when I have any questions about either or our 451’s or the 453 . They are really quite user serviceable once you wrench on them yourself , it’s foreign , and weird at first , but really well designed and thought out .
 

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Factory remanufactured engine, carries a Warranty too. You just need to consider if it’s worth the cost compared to what the car value is still worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I’m going to drop it once I get time, I’m going to see if they will rebuild it bc I posted about the motor on eBay and went to see it today and someone bought it. It was the only one that was good so I will be looking at a rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So I got the e brake off the cables today, I disconnected the electrical from the drivers side, and then I disconnected the harness from the passengers side, removed the skirt and all. I only have the air box to remove(bottom part on the bolts), the shifter cable needs to be removed (slid from under the mounting bracket), and remove the ax compressor and disconnect the radiator hoses. Then I will be removing the four bolts. Now

The issue: the air box hex bolts are completely rusted and hollowed out from the previous owner. No way to get something to bite into the hole where the hex was now is a rounded circle, and I can’t remove the shifter bracket til the air box is out. So trying to figure the plan? No room at all for anything. I was going to say take my grinder and carefully cut the head off try to leave enough for me to later remove the left over bit, but doubt a grinder can get in the area, plus disconnected fuel lines..... then once I do get the box out the cable off is a matter of how to get the engine and such from under the car? I’m on jack stands on the axles. Do I lift the body somehow with my one jack? This is the tricky part to me. Once it’s out I can remove the ac compressor. Then take the motor off and take it to the machine shop and see what they say. Someone bought the only smart low miles cleaned up motor I wanted on eBay.
 

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I highly recommend you get a set of lowering bolts/record release bolts, they will make this process a whole lot safer and easier. You could then drop the subassembly and be able to cut/grind the bolts with better access. Once the box is free you might be able to get a hold with a pair of locking pliers to get the bolts out. I've had decent luck welding new heads on, they usually hold long enough to get them out at least.
If you're trying to do it with the subassembly in place, I have used small rotary tools (die grinder, dremmel, etc) in the past, but in a tight space it sucks. If you go this route be very careful as they can skip and bounce, causing the tip to damage other items in it's path....possibly fleshy ones, so extra care and planning! You might have to accept that the airbox is sacrificial if you can't get the bolts out. There are afermarket replacements and I suspect an original could be scrounged up for not a lot of money as they don't appear to be in high demand.

Again, I don't recommend pulling the engine without dropping the subassemly, but if I had to do it that way I would consider disconnecting the motor mounts where they connect to the subframe to gain enough space to wedge the motor out once it's unbolted from the transmission. You will need to remove the front motor mount bracket that sits between the motor and trans to separate them. You will also need to figure out how to support the trans safely while you separate the motor.
I toyed with that a bit when I had the subassembly out and it was very difficult to get enough room to spearate them; I gave up trying and pulled the engine/trans then separated them.
Edit: As memory serves, you'll need to separate them about 3" to pull the spline from the flywheel.

If you get the lowering bolts, it's just a matter of putting the bolts in, lifting the body off slowly so you can disconnect lines, then rolling it out. I realize it's a delay and an additional expense (about $70 as I recall), but I think once you're into the weeds of separating the engine from the trans, the cost and delay will seem a pittance compared to the frustration and effort without them. That said, I'm happy to be shown another way, just trying to save you angst.
Edit: you can manufacture a set from some all-thread rod and nuts if so inclined. Specs are recorded in a number of threads or simply by asking.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Got the air box out, had a heavy duty long flat head screw driver hit the side with the head til it rotated and got it out, then disconnected the shifter cable. Only thing now is to disconnect the radiator hoses, ac compressor and get the frame lowered . Gonna look into those bolts to see if that’ll make it easier. If I get it out I’ll disconnect the engine and see about everything else. Now with the covid lockdown today in Illinois I hope can get to machine shop
 
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