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Discussion Starter #1
So I got this passion with a crank no start, that’s what I was told at least..... it’s going to be a gift for my wife. I am mechanically inclined so working on the smart isn’t a scary thing for me. I was told crankshaft sensor and the car stopped on the previous owner originally. So I checked and saw alternator saw seized solid, I replaced the alternator, I cleaned the shift motor and got it going, no more three dashes of death. I cleaned the interior completely. I had issues with rusted bolts that were no longer 10mm. With bolt extractor got the three bolts out, I replaced the plugs all three, replaced all three coil packs, only have to get the three bolts to keep it down, I thought the coolant was bone dry but it was just low took half a gallon to fill it back to max. Now....... the issue.
When I pulled the second plug I saw what I am pretty sure is antifreeze on the plug. So possibly a blown head gasket. ..... would love to do it myself but time restraints I only have a month to have this thing on the road riding. I have a drivers fender to find and either paint it myself in a pinch or maaco or earl sheib. I am taking the battery to be recharged tomorrow at Autozone my go to place since it’s only 10 mins away. Changed the serpentine belt $14 belt. I hate this setup but for those of you who don’t have the $40 tool I used a single lug tire iron, and stuck it in the hole and pryed up using the subframe. Once you get it to touch the balancer pulley I placed a golf tee that was in the car as trash in the pin and it held the tensioner In place. Once the belt was mostly one simply grab a 22mm bolt and turn the crank and let the belt go into place. The belt will be on.
I was wondering how hard is it to find the engine rebuild for this motor or even the head gasket?
 

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I’m pretty sure most others would likely agree with me on this but if you ever need the head gasket or head your better off just swapping the engine as it’s aluminum block and head and if they overheat they can likely warp.
Most of the time a warped head or block isn’t worth messing with.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m pretty sure most others would likely agree with me on this but if you ever need the head gasket or head your better off just swapping the engine as it’s aluminum block and head and if they overheat they can likely warp.
Most of the time a warped head or block isn’t worth messing with.
Yeah that’s what I’m fearing as the worst case scenario. I called all the shops around me and every single one of them was CLUELESS about the smart car. A machine shop told me they’d rebuild the motor for me for $1500-$2000 which I expected. But if they rebuilding it I want it beefed up. Why go stock when it’s tore apart right? But I got it all back together no check engine light, I turned the key let all the systems power up after reinstalling the freshly charged up battery that’s only 6 months old and....... crank no start. I know it’s not the throttle body I put my foot on it while the air cleaner is off and I see it opening all the way to wot. No kinks in it. I sprayed starting fluid directly into the throttle body and..... crank no start. Once the key is turned it cranks for awhile on its own. New plugs, new coils. I’m dropping the fuel pump when I get time and replacing it. Though I didn’t suspect it bc the fuel gauge is reading. But I don’t hear the whine like on most cars. I hear other stuff but not that whine I’m used to. So since I have a replacement I’m throwing it in.
 

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You can work the key on and off a few times to check the pump.
There is a fuse for it in the Sam unit for it(check this first to make sure it’s not blown)
I agree with you about beefing it up(most machine shops can bore and hone the block out and parts are available from overseas to do this) though most haven’t shown any dyno results for the larger pistons and rings after boring the engine out.
The crank but no start is more likely coils(those work on the crank sensor) the crank sensor is responsible for both fuel, timing and ignition (timing for spark and also for fuel injector pulses) if it’s not working it will prevent both from working.
You need a good scan tool to see if there is any old codes in the car before you continue and waste money just throwing parts at it(trust me I’ve been down that rabbit hole and it gets costly quick)
I say that you need a good scan tool as I had to replace the radiator fan on mine which had triggered a code and shut the fan circuit off and it wouldn’t work till after the code was cleared.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a ancel x6 tablet that does everything and I also have a another scanner that reads everything abs and sas and all the obd2. I use the ancel bc it has online help and everything with it. I checked the number 16 fuse and it is good. When I go to the individual components to test them though I press the activate for the fuel pump and it passes yet I don’t hear the pump....so that’s why I’m thinking that the pump is out. I changed the crankshaft position sensor with a brand new one already also.
 

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Ah ok

I’m not sure how hard it is to get to the pump but it shouldn’t be too tricky to get to.

You may want to bench test the pump after you get it out of the car to rule it being possible wiring issues.
Did it actually start and run on the starting fluid?(even if for a short period)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well it didn’t run on the starting fluid at all, but I wanted to rule everything out so I changed the pump and before I installed it I checked it. It runs when cranking as it should key on doesn’t like it’s supposed to do.
 

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You can disconnect the flexible fuel line where it connects to the rail and check for pressure there if you have a pressure gauge, if not at least you'll know it has pressure when it leaks out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The pump is super tricky to get in. I got it in but the fuel gauge is not correct but once I get the car running I’ll worry about that. I have to get one bolt out from the rear passenger side it got stuck so I cut the head off I’ll get it out and I’m changing all the bolts to hex instead of the star torx type easier to work on that way. I disconnected the fuel line from pump turned key to crank and fuel pumped out way more than with the old pump. So then I pulled the fuel rail and injectors are squirting as they should. So it’s getting fuel. Now to get a compression tester to see that next. Then a inline spark tester to see about spark. Once I get tank back up I’ll check other two components
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You can disconnect the flexible fuel line where it connects to the rail and check for pressure there if you have a pressure gauge, if not at least you'll know it has pressure when it leaks out.
Wish I had thought of that before I dropped the tank lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Compression test. I bet it is low.
That’s what I’m hoping isn’t the case. If that’s the case it’ll be a engine rebuild then. Found a shop for $1500-$2000 so far I am only into the car $1200 for purchase and then $300 in replacement parts.
 

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That’s what I’m hoping isn’t the case. If that’s the case it’ll be a engine rebuild then. Found a shop for $1500-$2000 so far I am only into the car $1200 for purchase and then $300 in replacement parts.
Having purchased an engine earlier this year for my parts car I can say that if you're patient you can get one for significantly less than that. A lot of them are 100k+ miles, but again if you're patient you should be able to find one with less. Assuming it's even necessary. I had considered rebuilding mine, may yet, but seeing that I could replace it for less that's what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah compression test is where I’m going I just wanted to get the obvious things that were wrong replaced to rule them out first. $300 in isn’t bad. Was going to have to replace the stater battery alternator and belt anyways so that’s why they were done. I wanted to make sure I got them done so I didn’t have to worry about it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I went to harbor freight and got another compression tester and a inline spark plug tester and it has spark......went to the compression test and 0 from cylinder 2 not even 30 on cylinder 3 so I stopped there. Called around the performance shop I wanted to do it closed their doors. So I called a machine shop near me and they said I have to remove the motor and with all I’ve done so far they will swap the parts over if swapping motors but it’s good even on rebuild, but I have to remove the motor. $1500 and up is what he estimated. So I’m now hunting for somewhere in the St. Louis Missouri area to swap the motor or rebuild it with me dropping the car off by having it towed to a shop
 

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You will save a lot of money if you can pull the motor yourself. Tool-wise, you'll need the typical metric wrenches and sockets, which I presume you have already. You'll need a set of e-torx sockets and you'll really want a set of lowering bolts. Those two should cost under $100 combined. If the shop does that work, they inherit the risk of breaking other parts and will charge accordingly.
I'm assuming you have a garage, if not it certainly gets more difficult. Time-wise for a first time I would think 4-8 hours,.
 
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