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Discussion Starter #21
Don’t have a garage, The driveway is where it’s at currently fuel tank drop already from the fuel pump replacement. Might as well get that bolt that the head rounded off on on out, get the tank back in place and then figure the next move
 

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Don’t have a garage, The driveway is where it’s at currently fuel tank drop already from the fuel pump replacement. Might as well get that bolt that the head rounded off on on out, get the tank back in place and then figure the next move
Having lifed most of my life with no garage, I can sympathize. :(
If it helps, one can do all the work and then roll the subassembly, minus engine, back under the car to allow it to be moved around or at least look like a complete vehicle.
Since you don't need to reconnect anything but the 4 lowering bolts, it's about 15 extra minutes of effort to get there.
I forgot to mention, but I would also recommend some plugs for the brake lines.
 

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If it is 0 then something is seriously wrong. Redo the test.
You can also bring the piston to TDC and pump air into the cylinder and listen to where it comes out. Like a leak down test but you will see if it is intake or exhaust valve or cylinder rings.
You can also in inside with a borescope.
One dealer told me it is easier to do the complete engine and transmission without removing the subframe and that is how they do it. Not sure how they do it but i have seen a drivetrain swap where they didn't put the old drivetrain into the donor car but the subframe was still connected to the car. I thought it would have been easier just to roll the old out and roll new one in.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I am thinking of getting a few more jacks and disconnecting it all, and then the four bolts, and rolling the whole assembly from under the car engine and trans together. Yeah, when I saw 0 I was thinking maybe a hole in the piston or a bent valve but it was definitely 0. So now to figure how to get the motor out then find a motor that’s not $2300. I found two about 6 hours from me but they want 900 for one with 120k miles and 950 for the one with 110 miles. Mine has 110k miles already.
 

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Pull it out and pop the head off and go from there.
Note that those engines will not come with the accessories like startor A/C compressor, etc as wreckers sell them off. Check if head and block are wrapped. If so, take to machine shop and deck the head and\or block and rebuild it yourself. If you can't just disassemble it to save money.

One problem is with the heads as you will need to get aftermarket valve guides or if the rebuilder has speed guides (or something like that cannot remember off the top of my head right now).
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Appreciate the advice. I found a great video on YouTube title “2013 smart car engine removal. The guy pulls his from a distance you watch but once it’s out he shows all the key points to get to and so that’s what I started with. I have the e socket set from harbor freight, I undid the brake lines, I Unclipped the driver side bundle. I undid the fuel lines which I had already done when I checked the fuel pump I installed, and I pulled the alternator bolt out and the starter is out, now to get the three wires that go to the computer which I have one undone already, I have to get behind the panel to pull the ecu one from the body, then I need to take the hoses from the radiator which he said crimped so I will just get those off. Then I need to see how I can get the e brake cable off? And the gear shifter bracket. Then figure how to lower it when I have one floor jack and I need to jack the car higher so that I can lower the assembly. Oh and ground straps.
It’s pouring down today so no work on it now. Told the wife the car is going to be for her since I hate lying about it. She cried like a big baby. But now I’m really in it to get done before Christmas. She thought I was taking her Pacifica I built and gave her but I told her no they both hers. So, she’s not in a rush but I am.
 

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If you pull the subassembly, it is a E18 socket for the 4 bolts. So unless you bought the deep sockets you be missing that one.

They is also a video of a guy with his pop or grandpa remove it one for the first time. I think they said it took 3.5 hours as first time they did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It was same video I watched his uncle terry lol. Yeah I’ll have to check my set make sure the e18 is in there or not. But I’m not to the four bolts yet I’m doing a hour a day bc I work 17 hours a day. My next day off isn’t til thanksgiving morning
 

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That's what I've done, a little here a little there. I've been too busy lately and haven't touched it for around 2 weeks, but the bulk of the work was done in 30 minute windows after work.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I’ve tackled mine just like that, after watching the YouTube video on it I followed the pointers and got it out down to the four bolts, radiator hoses, and removing the ac compressor. Was told look into lowering bolts. I have to remove the lower bumper piece also. Then jack the frame up off the bolts or jack the assembly up higher then pull the jack stands from under the engine assembly onto the ground and let the body be supported on jack stands. Then to place a stand under the transmission and separate the engine from the trans and take it to the machine shop for fixing
 

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I thought I had linked my thread on this before, but I don't see it so here it is:
I wouldn't follow it step by step as I was learning as I went and I found some steps that I would have tried in another order. Still, it may be useful in seeing how someone else dismantled it.

In this one I struggle to separate the engine and trans. The center motor mount interfering with the flywheel I discovered after I pulled the works.

And the current thread where I'm trying to get it running.

Appologies for the self-promotion, my only defense is that anyone who reads those threads will see I'm learning as I go and possibly in way over my head. But we seem to be on similar paths, so I thought it might help.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Good read I read all three posts and I got some pointers for sure, I will be removing the three bolts and then jacking the car up I am not removing the rear bumper and such though due to my neighborhood don’t want people thinking it’s a free for all to strip my wife’s car. So I am in same boat only a hour here and there to work on it which is why I don’t like taking on such huge projects really, especially in the winter and now with the covid lockdowns. But I will get the four bolts out the e18’s then raise the body some off the subframe, unbolt the ac compressor, then the radiator hoses and then see if I can pull the assembly from under the car and then the challenge of separating the engine I saw the video so I know take the bracket off and to remove every bolt and there’s 3” clearance I need to pull the motor alone. I don’t have a engine hoist so this will be interesting
 
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