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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finding information about the 12v battery is insane. Smart Cars of San Diego parts guy new nothing about it. Gave me the part number for the traction battery! Yikes.

Simple question: Is this a standard 12v battery?? AGM?? Is there anything special about it other than being an odd size and vented??

Do you need to put a tender on the car while replacing the battery so as not to screw up anything??

Thank you!

2014 ED.

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Updating this post so all info is in one place.

Stock Battery: 451 982 00 08 (this is NOT an AGM battery).

Exact size replacement: ACDelco Professional LN1PS. $156 OTD (out the door). 30 month free replacement.

The LN1PS fits perfectly. However; It is only vented on the right side so they had to install a longer vent tube. No problem.

Installing the battery does not require a battery tender (or whatever) to keep memory, as ALL you will lose is the clock time. Radio presets are NOT lost, at least on stock radio.

*Note that Group 47 battery's (posted in other threads) will NOT allow the hold down bracket to fit. Note the top battery in below pic.

Pictures here: http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f170/12v-battery-replacement-help-149746/index4.html#post1636490

I truly hope this post helps others in the future, as locating this information anywhere was far too difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. But I read every battery thread I could find, and none of them answer these questions, including that one.

It would seem so easy to get these answers, then have them here for future searches.

That is what I'm hoping for.
 

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jwight said that a group 47 was a direct fit, and that was the info I was going by.

As to your other questions, I always put a tender on when changing batteries, just because I hate to re-enter radio codes and presets. Laziness rules for me!
 

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Don't think there are any things on a Smart that would require resetting after a battery change is there? That's one of the reasons I like it so much - I really like a simple no frills car. To me the Smart car is today's old Beetle.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 15,000 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 5,000 miles
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What about AGM. Is it? I've read varying opinions. Etc.

As I wrote, even the Smart parts guy had no idea.
 

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I've always liked the Optima. Happened to check their website last week and they have nothing that they say is a fit for the Smart car. I was also shocked by how much they cost now.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 15,000 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 5,000 miles
 

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Spiral Cell is a gel.
AGM is glass mat.
Lead Acid is regular.

Each requires a setting on my Shumacher charger to be set. So if the original is AGM, then I'd stick with AGM, personally. DreamCarOwner has a regular battery from Walmart AFAIK. I don't think he's having issues....

Mercedes switched to AGM around 2009 model year. No fancy dance to change the battery....

The optional Highline Radio with Navigation does require entering a code if disconnected and reconnected to power.

0000

Don't worry about anything else needing juice, unless you're lazy to reset the clock.
(This is for the gasser! Not 100% sure about the ED).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I sent them a message ("Is it AGM?"), but from what I've seen elsewhere, they won't know the answer.

I just want to know if I can run down to the local battery shop and have them pop in a regular 12v battery.
They have a 6yr battery that will fit for $100 installed.

Regarding the AC Delco one that was posted about, there was no model number, nor was it stated that it went into an ED.

Sigh
 

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I just want to know if I can run down to the local battery shop and have them pop in a regular 12v battery.
They have a 6yr battery that will fit for $100 installed.

Regarding the AC Delco one that was posted about, there was no model number, nor was it stated that it went into an ED.
As long as that "regular" (Group 47*) battery is complete with a VENT TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR.

Size does matter as there is very little "wiggle room" when attempting to install the new battery into the well!

And an oldie (05-20-2017) for your casual reading . . .

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f170/12v-battery-warranty-136818/

*And BCI GROUP NUMBERS, AND DIMENSIONAL SPECIFICATIONS . . .

https://www.jegs.com/Sizecharts/bcigroup.html
 

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Pinan, my experience is that any of the lead chemistry batteries are pretty much interchangeable with each other.

That being said, I think the deeper question is why the batteries seem to die so quickly. The different battery types have different electrical profiles which help chargers determine when they are full, so putting the wrong chemistry type in may not work correctly.

What I do know is that whenever the EVSE is plugged in, it seems that the 12 volt battery seems to be charged. That's bad for it if it is already charged. This is from the battery test unit, after it had been plugged in overnight (so that if the 12 volt were low, it would have been fully charged by then):

SOC : 100.0 %, realSOC: 93.8 %
HV : 388.1 V, -0.59 A, -0.23 kW
LV : 14.4 V

versus when the EVSE is not plugged in:

SOC : 99.5 %, realSOC: 97.8 %
HV : 387.6 V, -1.34 A, -0.52 kW
LV : 12.9 V

So if the HV battery is engaged (the contactor is closed) and the 12 volt battery is continuously being charged, does that mean the 12 volt is also continuously being charged whenever the car is on? It seems it might be. Even after charging all night, if I turn on the car and engage some 12 volt accessories like the headlights or the seat heaters, the remaining range goes down within a very short time - less than a minute. If I start up the car and don't use accessories, the remaining range stays stable for as long as I have ever sat still - a few minutes or thereabouts. This isn't conclusive to be sure, but if the battery is really being charged all the time, that could be a major reason the battery dies so quickly. After all, it sits in a temperature controlled area, and is never subjected to the huge draws that a battery would see when cranking over an engine. It really is a pretty easy service life from what I can tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Interesting points, InjuredAgain. My car has not been giving me the miles that it did before. 3 weeks ago it went from 70miles avg per charge, to less than 50. No change on my part. Smart of San Diego checked it and stated "all is fine". BS!!!!!

I then went and had the 12v battery checked (Smart did NOT check it!) and one of the cells is bad. I'm going to change the battery (hence this thread) to see if that could be the problem.

Make sense? Thoughts?

2014 ED
41K
Just hit four years 4/13. No BAP.
 

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If you have a bad starter battery with an internal short, this could work your DC-DC converter and hence drain your HV battery. Makes sense to me what you’re experiencing.
 

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AGM doesn’t have the same feel when you handle it, like the flooded lead acid. If you still have the old one lift up one end and see if you can feel liquid sloshing around. If not, it is AGM, if yes, it’s a regular battery.
 

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Interesting points, InjuredAgain. My car has not been giving me the miles that it did before. 3 weeks ago it went from 70miles avg per charge, to less than 50. No change on my part. Smart of San Diego checked it and stated "all is fine". BS!!!!!

I then went and had the 12v battery checked (Smart did NOT check it!) and one of the cells is bad. I'm going to change the battery (hence this thread) to see if that could be the problem.

Make sense? Thoughts?

2014 ED
41K
Just hit four years 4/13. No BAP.
If you are running with the AC blowing or even just the fan blowing, you will definitely decrease your range.

Len
2014 EV 15,000 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 5,000 miles
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you are running with the AC blowing or even just the fan blowing, you will definitely decrease your range.
Oh, I understand that completely. I haven't turned the AC on since I bought it. Nothing has changed about my driving at all. Something is indeed wrong. I'm just hoping that the "bad" 12v battery is the problem.

I'll change it and keep this thread updated for everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
During the 6 yr warranty, who does the labor of replacing the battery? If they will, I would go for it....
I'm not sure what you mean here. The new battery I'm buying has the 6yr warranty. They are going to install it today. The battery that's in the car now is the original one.
 
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