I replaced the 12V battery in my 2014 Smart EV 451. The car didn’t like me doing that. Anyone else had this problem?
The point is that we are afraid of what the car's psychopathic gaslighting software will do to the car if it detects the service disconnect being pulled. The service primer refers to the cars syatem being de-energized first with the "DAS system", then the service disconnect is pulled.Hmm. If that is the case, pull the service disconnect, then disconnect the neg terminal of the 12 V battery. Let the car sit maybe 30 mins to let any capacitors discharge, reconnect the the 12 V, then the service plug, and hopefully she's happy...
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My interpretation from what I read was he kept the plug installed, changed the battery, and then got the "you're screwed" message after installing the new one. I figure it wouldn't hurt anymore to try the official route of disconnecting the plug, then simulating changing the battery, in the hopes that the ECU forgives him for not following the official instructions.The point is that we are afraid of what the car's psychopathic gaslighting software will do to the car if it detects the service disconnect being pulled. The service primer refers to the cars syatem being de-energized first with the "DAS system", then the service disconnect is pulled.
No normal, physics-based mechanical or electrical assumptions can be relied on when working on a Smart ED.
I suspect that the design team for the smart ED was a totally different group than the normal automotive engineers - they were probably recruited from the ranks of the IT engineering field and simply have no experience with the the conventions of automotive service and serviceability. Yes, I agree that something is going on regarding the association of dying 12V batteries and bricking HV batteries via their BMS. And the problem is almost certainly software, not hardware.Someone for goodness sake pay the piper the $60 and pull the startekinfo.com instructions for this.
Like I noted in another thread no Mercedes in my lifetime required any sort of fancy dance to replace the 12 V battery. BMW, Porsche, even Ford yes, but not Mercedes. Sadly, my suspicion is that something is failing along with the dead 12 V or HV battery. Something that possibly Mercedes/Smart warranty should be covering....
Even if you didn't program the new battery in all three model experience I had with Porsche, BMW, and the Ford the car still started up. It was more for longevity of the battery. Something else is breaking, maybe due to low voltage...
Available service information states that HV system de-energization, involving among other things, pulling the HV service disconnect, is to be performed for changing the 12V battery. Yes, I know some successfully replaced their 12V batteries without following this procedure, but this does not mean it will always work.STOP, please, with the Service Disconnect. It is not necessary to do this before disconnecting the 12v battery. Just remove the neg terminal and tuck it out of the way so it wont jump up and accidentally contact the battery terminal. The car will not complain, show codes or anything.
If you reconnect at exactly 12 o'clock perhaps the dash clock will now be correct(?).
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Do you mean different software versions, because I can't see how it would affect different ones differently otherwise? So some are programmed to self destruct while others aren't? Still points to some kind of failure...Available service information states that HV system de-energization, involving among other things, pulling the HV service disconnect, is to be performed for changing the 12V battery. Yes, I know some successfully replaced their 12V batteries without following this procedure, but this does not mean it will always work.
So this was not the full story at all. Might be a good idea to give all the details; what you did and why you did it. You are getting bizarre results from your car.I replaced the 12V battery in my 2014 Smart EV 451. The car didn’t like me doing that. Anyone else had this problem? [OP]
Yes, it does seem very odd. It supports the hypothesis that the BMS has some kind of battery pack "suicide" bug, or deliberate stupid "safety suicide feature", that is activated by a combination of conditions. So you left the battery disconnected and the service plug pulled for 12 hours of so?I’m not sure what caused the message but probably was pulling the hv disconnect. I did that once or twice before battery change and it didn’t give the hv->workshop message the first couple times. It seems to drain hv battery fairly quickly(20% overnight 40% to 20%) with the hv service plug pulled and the 12v battery negative pulled. I don’t understand, seems odd.