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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a replacement 12v battery at my local MB dealer last winter to have on standby for my 2014 ED. Today I decided to make the swap and after pulling out the old battery, I noticed that the new one is noticeably larger. Did they sell me the wrong battery?

65978
 

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MY08 cabrio MY09 Brabus MY21 Bolt
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Appears so, dunno that the longer battery would fit in the well?

I’d call them immediately but also put ED back on the old 12V so as to not have HV battery meltdown!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, I put the old, original battery back in right away. I called the dealer and the parts guy confirmed the part number on the new battery as being the correct battery for my VIN. He said the part number has changed, but it’s the correct part for my car. I told him that it was noticeably larger and questioned whether it would fit. He said he’s never had anyone complain that it didn’t fit. Even if I can somehow shoehorn it into the recess, I don’t think the hold-down strap will fit. I’m not sure what to do at this point.
 

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Print your picture and take it with you to the M-B parts guy. He must have made a mistake. If you google the two part numbers you can find that both fit some model of smart, my guess is your new battery is for the newer smarts. Maybe have him look up the 2013 part.


 

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He said the part number has changed, but it’s the correct part for my car. I told him that it was noticeably larger and questioned whether it would fit. He said he’s never had anyone complain that it didn’t fit. Even if I can somehow shoehorn it into the recess, I don’t think the hold-down strap will fit.
Sadly, I don’t think that M-B employees can hear Customer complaints???

I too would be concerned about the hold down clamp fit, may require bending?
 

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Or just tell him you want the 451 part number on your old battery. I got one about a year ago with no issues - perfect fit.

Len
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I just found my receipt. I bought it back on July 6, so I’m SOL on returning it. This is the second time they‘ve sold me the wrong part. I’m done doing business with them.

Now my bigger issue is finding a dealer who has the the correct battery and will ship it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just found this thread about modifying the clamp. I guess I’ll give it a try.

 

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These are six common European battery sizes.

L1 measures about 175mm width x 190mm height x 207mm length.

L2 measures about 175mm width x 190mm height x 242mm length.

L3 measures about 175mm width x 190mm height x 278mm length.

L4 measures about 175mm width x 190mm height x 317mm length.

L5 measures about 175mm width x 190mm height x 353mm length.

L6 measures about 175mm width x 190mm height x 393mm length.

The OP replaced their L1 battery with an L2 battery which resulted in a big improvement in both the battery capacity and the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). The battery capacity increased from 42Ah to 61Ah, and the CCA increased from 340A to 480A. So over a 40% improvement in both battery capacity and CCA.

As you can see from the above chart, the width and height remains the same with all the batteries. It's just the length that increases by about 1.5" as you go up each battery size from L1 to L6.
 

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True, but CCA doesn’t really matter all that much when you have an electric drive :p
Do we even have a spec on how many amps the main batts draw on "start"?
I imagine it's rather small.
The 453 model oem's an "EFB" (enhanced flooded) battery (aka start/stop battery) supposedly because it has an "improved charge acceptance and greater cyclic durability when operating in a reduced state of charge") hmm... :unsure:
 

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I wrote a review for a super-capacitor jump-starter. In warm weather with the main battery at 9v, my Fluke meter measured 110 Amps peak draw at startup.
Ok. Wow! Am I correct in saying then that the 110 amp peak draw is essentially an EV's cca? If so then the 453's 510a spec on the battery is overkill but necessary? Or were you measuring a 451 ED?
 

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Ok. Wow! Am I correct in saying then that the 110 amp peak draw is essentially an EV's cca? If so then the 453's 510a spec on the battery is overkill but necessary? Or were you measuring a 451 ED?
I was measuring the current through the primary starter cable on a 2008 451 ICE. Sorry, I really can’t speak for the ED version, but would be happy to take measurements if someone wants to volunteer their car and it’s not too awful to access the cables.

I wouldn’t say my measurement was Cold Cranking Amps, just a measurement of starter current draw using an external jump-starting pack. I am tell you from this measurement that 110A is enough to start the car.

My guess is that the battery can supply much more instantaneous current - more than the starter “needs” to fire up the ignition. When I have the time, I can run another test using a good battery, but at this time of year, the temperature is a relatively good case for the battery. When it gets cold, the battery needs to be in good condition to supply enough current to turn the starter.
 
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