Background: Owner of two 2008 ForTwos, Pure & Passion Cabrio since about 2010. Changed own oil, filters, plugs, coils, pads & rotors, lamps. Fixed the simpler problems, like fuel pump, muffler, seat track lock-up due to penny in track, convertible top gear drive. When I see the same exact problem appear in both my units, I know its broadly affecting the 2008-09 owner population. I feel for us, as we haven't been embraced by the parent of this step-child, like folks highly likely for upward mobility into the pricier choices. No rewriting that history, we accept it, make future choices accordingly, life is short.
Briefly: My 2008 Cabrio with 95K miles began running poorly, coded cylinder #3 misfire, fresh coil no affect, fresh spark plugs the fix. The poor running, combined with progressively less success engaging reverse gear had me down, thinking sell. Running strong again, I wanted to explore some REVERSE GEAR FIX solutions posted here & there in these forums. What can be done, if anything, short of getting out the tools, or asking a dealer for a diagnosis & costs?
Here are 3 things I learned reading about inconsistent reverse gear from this community. Will try to apply them to verify benefit, if any. Not suggesting a simple band-aid solves a catastrophic failure. But if engaging reverse works only sometimes, can I improve the success rate with a simple change in my behavior? I hope the MODs will chime in to clarify any misunderstandings of the processes on my part.
(1) I've read here that performing a transmission re-train, or re-learn (or what is the right process label?) may help address the REVERSE-sometimes-works issue. If I understood the process correctly: foot continuously on the brake, turn key to ON but not start, slowly move gear shifter from P to R & wait (time X, 5-15 seconds?), slowly move shifter R to N & wait (time?), slowly move gear shifter N to D & wait (time?), move shifter leftward into manual mode & wait (time?), continuing the gear shift movement steps rightward to D (auto mode), up to N, up to R, up to P, careful to wait X-time in each position. When finally back to P & waiting X-time, turn key to OFF, release foot from brake, process is complete. I think battery healthy & fully charged may be important here. How long is time X ? I have the impression there is something to hear with some of these gear shifter movements, so X is the time that is required for the transmission to react to each shift movement? MODs, how long is time X ? I attempted this process last night, shivering & wind howling, not really hearing anything, not 100% sure I accomplished anything. Can a MOD clarify how slowly to move shifter gear-to-gear, what should be heard in each move, if anything, how long to wait in each shifter position, & is there anything visual or audible to indicate we completed this process correctly? Any added clarity greatly appreciated.
(2) I've read some have solved or greatly improved REVERSE behavior by consistently adopting use of the Emergency brake, applied in (I guess) a prescribed manner. Surprises me, but desperate & willing to try the plausible: Again, if I've interpreted right, at your destination, engine running, gear in D, foot on brake, I engage the E-brake, move gear selector to P, turn engine off. Next time to go, foot on brake, start engine, gear selector from P to R, R should engage, release E-brake, complete motion in reverse, foot on brake, then shift R to D & go. Is this really going to help? I understand this is good guidance & I've rarely ever used the E-brake, with 99.99% of the time parked near-flat. Yesterday was day #1 trying this & REVERSE WORKED 1st try, sitting 2 hours after a 90-minute drive into Chicago - hooray. Today is day #2, time will tell if this solves, helps, or is nonsense with respect to engaging reverse. MODs, can you add any clarity to this? I plan to adhere to this E-brake use & note the success rate, report it later. Thoughts, Miss Mercedes?
(3) I've read a transmission software update supposedly improved gear selection reliability. My impression is that delays were introduced in how certain events happened internally within the transmission. Electric motors engage & disengage the clutch according to a update-able program (like firmware). Update never mandated by recall, so owner experience getting it varied from happy-courtesy-free to pony-up $300 for a diagnostic fee. Those determined to get the update ranged from got-it-free to paying the diagnostic fee at the dealer, some then learning the update had been applied previously. If I understood the process for how to verify I have the transmission update applied, by holding a (+?) paddle-shifter until the gear display toggles from D (auto) to 1 (manual), allowing a shift-mode change I thought required moving the gear selector LEFT from D.... then I don't have the update. I assume I start the engine, foot on brake, move the gear selector from P to D, then hold-in the + paddle until D toggles to a 1. If I have the process right, my D remains a D, indicating I don't have the update. While some here might urge I request the firmware update to solve a known problem, I kinda dread pleading a case to the parent of my abandoned stepchild. My pleas have been rejected for other worthy 451 issues in the past, so I'm gun-shy. Feel free to encourage me, though. Would the update help? Who knows...
LOL, the $300 diagnostic fee is some magic dealer cash-flow tool that was usually pretty effective at discouraging me from seeking a factory solution. Early on, my driver-side seat belt stopped latching. Push the metal tongue into the receiver like I had the last year, but now it won't latch, just pops back out. Took it to the local dealer in Florida, service insisted they MUST run a diagnostic to help resolve my seat belt issue. Nothing electronic could have influence whether the mechanical operation of the latch worked or not, I tried to point out. I'm an engineer, I said. I don't want to disassemble it to find a dime in the mechanism if I can get it addressed under the extended warranty of the safety restraint system. Would you believe I had to escalate it over a couple days, then they agreed to waive the diagnostic fee, but I was required to pay for the part, not labor, I got it in writing. Job done & settling up, they showed me a bill for parts + labor, held my car hostage. I had to re-escalate it to clarify my bill would be parts only. Like humans everywhere, some will do the right thing first... Live & learn.
If you MODs can corroborate these processes, or set straight any of my misunderstandings, & add clarity where needed, we 2008-09 owners might stretch a little more useful life out of our units before we let-it-go. Maybe you or others know some additional band-aids? What fun these are when working. Be happy. Best, Denny
Briefly: My 2008 Cabrio with 95K miles began running poorly, coded cylinder #3 misfire, fresh coil no affect, fresh spark plugs the fix. The poor running, combined with progressively less success engaging reverse gear had me down, thinking sell. Running strong again, I wanted to explore some REVERSE GEAR FIX solutions posted here & there in these forums. What can be done, if anything, short of getting out the tools, or asking a dealer for a diagnosis & costs?
Here are 3 things I learned reading about inconsistent reverse gear from this community. Will try to apply them to verify benefit, if any. Not suggesting a simple band-aid solves a catastrophic failure. But if engaging reverse works only sometimes, can I improve the success rate with a simple change in my behavior? I hope the MODs will chime in to clarify any misunderstandings of the processes on my part.
(1) I've read here that performing a transmission re-train, or re-learn (or what is the right process label?) may help address the REVERSE-sometimes-works issue. If I understood the process correctly: foot continuously on the brake, turn key to ON but not start, slowly move gear shifter from P to R & wait (time X, 5-15 seconds?), slowly move shifter R to N & wait (time?), slowly move gear shifter N to D & wait (time?), move shifter leftward into manual mode & wait (time?), continuing the gear shift movement steps rightward to D (auto mode), up to N, up to R, up to P, careful to wait X-time in each position. When finally back to P & waiting X-time, turn key to OFF, release foot from brake, process is complete. I think battery healthy & fully charged may be important here. How long is time X ? I have the impression there is something to hear with some of these gear shifter movements, so X is the time that is required for the transmission to react to each shift movement? MODs, how long is time X ? I attempted this process last night, shivering & wind howling, not really hearing anything, not 100% sure I accomplished anything. Can a MOD clarify how slowly to move shifter gear-to-gear, what should be heard in each move, if anything, how long to wait in each shifter position, & is there anything visual or audible to indicate we completed this process correctly? Any added clarity greatly appreciated.
(2) I've read some have solved or greatly improved REVERSE behavior by consistently adopting use of the Emergency brake, applied in (I guess) a prescribed manner. Surprises me, but desperate & willing to try the plausible: Again, if I've interpreted right, at your destination, engine running, gear in D, foot on brake, I engage the E-brake, move gear selector to P, turn engine off. Next time to go, foot on brake, start engine, gear selector from P to R, R should engage, release E-brake, complete motion in reverse, foot on brake, then shift R to D & go. Is this really going to help? I understand this is good guidance & I've rarely ever used the E-brake, with 99.99% of the time parked near-flat. Yesterday was day #1 trying this & REVERSE WORKED 1st try, sitting 2 hours after a 90-minute drive into Chicago - hooray. Today is day #2, time will tell if this solves, helps, or is nonsense with respect to engaging reverse. MODs, can you add any clarity to this? I plan to adhere to this E-brake use & note the success rate, report it later. Thoughts, Miss Mercedes?
(3) I've read a transmission software update supposedly improved gear selection reliability. My impression is that delays were introduced in how certain events happened internally within the transmission. Electric motors engage & disengage the clutch according to a update-able program (like firmware). Update never mandated by recall, so owner experience getting it varied from happy-courtesy-free to pony-up $300 for a diagnostic fee. Those determined to get the update ranged from got-it-free to paying the diagnostic fee at the dealer, some then learning the update had been applied previously. If I understood the process for how to verify I have the transmission update applied, by holding a (+?) paddle-shifter until the gear display toggles from D (auto) to 1 (manual), allowing a shift-mode change I thought required moving the gear selector LEFT from D.... then I don't have the update. I assume I start the engine, foot on brake, move the gear selector from P to D, then hold-in the + paddle until D toggles to a 1. If I have the process right, my D remains a D, indicating I don't have the update. While some here might urge I request the firmware update to solve a known problem, I kinda dread pleading a case to the parent of my abandoned stepchild. My pleas have been rejected for other worthy 451 issues in the past, so I'm gun-shy. Feel free to encourage me, though. Would the update help? Who knows...
LOL, the $300 diagnostic fee is some magic dealer cash-flow tool that was usually pretty effective at discouraging me from seeking a factory solution. Early on, my driver-side seat belt stopped latching. Push the metal tongue into the receiver like I had the last year, but now it won't latch, just pops back out. Took it to the local dealer in Florida, service insisted they MUST run a diagnostic to help resolve my seat belt issue. Nothing electronic could have influence whether the mechanical operation of the latch worked or not, I tried to point out. I'm an engineer, I said. I don't want to disassemble it to find a dime in the mechanism if I can get it addressed under the extended warranty of the safety restraint system. Would you believe I had to escalate it over a couple days, then they agreed to waive the diagnostic fee, but I was required to pay for the part, not labor, I got it in writing. Job done & settling up, they showed me a bill for parts + labor, held my car hostage. I had to re-escalate it to clarify my bill would be parts only. Like humans everywhere, some will do the right thing first... Live & learn.
If you MODs can corroborate these processes, or set straight any of my misunderstandings, & add clarity where needed, we 2008-09 owners might stretch a little more useful life out of our units before we let-it-go. Maybe you or others know some additional band-aids? What fun these are when working. Be happy. Best, Denny