[WhiteStarLine]

Hello,
I'm looking for any advice on how to remove/install an Alternator on a 2008 Smart fortwo. All I've seen is how to remove it on older models, but it's not the same on mine. Can you still lower one side of the engine to get to it like the older models? I see the three bolts on top of the engine mount by the alternator and am tempted to pull them out to drop it, but don't want to break or bend anything in the process. Is there enough room to get it out above the frame without dropping the engine down? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Rustedwrench]

The smart service info has one disconnecting the battery, removing the right rear fender liner and lowering the engine cradle to get it out after removing the right engine mount. In the photos it appears there is not enough room for it to come out to the right side between the vehicle structure above it and the engine cradle rear spring seat bump below it. The problem with lowering the engine cradle is with the coolant hoses, wiring harnesses, fuel lines and a/c lines that can be damaged if great care is not taken. It may be possible to loosen the engine cradle and lower the right side slightly and sneak it out but it looks to be a tight fit.

That is a long-winded way of saying I do not know, as I have never done it.

 

[jwight]

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/fo...enance-46921/?highlight=engine+lowering+bolts (Not very helpful but some of the posts are pretty funny....)

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/fo...g-pins-32201/?highlight=engine+lowering+bolts (see post # 12)

 

[GreyMatte451]

Replacing the alternator seems like a pretty involved process. I have full directions if you'd like, just PM me your email address.

 

[WhiteStarLine]

Thanks for all the help, I'll PM you right now for instructions.

 

[WhiteStarLine]

Update! Got the old alternator and the new one in tonight! Not as difficult as smart would have you think.
Here's what I did and had no problems:
1. removed rear right tire and plastic covers behind it.
2. Untensioned serpentine belt
3. loosened and removed the lower alternator bolt through the frame.
4. unhooked the plastic lines above the alternator from their clips (gave way more room)
5. removed positive wire from alternator
6. put a floor jack underneath the engine and loosened and removed the engine mounting bolts that are right next to the alternator (You have to anyways to get to the top bolt on the alternator)
7. removed the top alternator bolt
8. removed the sensor located in front of the alternator (You may be able to sneak it out without doing this, but again, gave more room to work with)
9. Removed the top of the engine mount (Surprisingly easy)
10. lowered the engine slightly
11. unclipped plug from alternator and was able to remove the alternator easily.
12. Did everything in reverse

Didn't have to lower the cradle, gas tank, or any of the other time consuming tasks that the smart manual says you have to (I think they only do all of that to drive the hours of the repairs higher so they can charge you more). Hope this helps anybody else who might have to do this job. It's not a quickie fix, but at least you now know how to do it easier.

 

[WhiteStarLine]

Before I forget. The bolts on the alternator are 12mm. But the nut on the positive wire is a 13mm. The engine mount bolts (the ones on the fram) are 16 either 17mm, I believe it's 16, but it was dark and cold, so I just grabbed a socket that fit. The engine mounting bolts on the engine are female star heads. I found a set of spline sockets at Auto Zone for $15.00 with a lifetime warranty that worked great. The sensor bolt was a 10mm, I believe. Did this all outside with snow on the ground. Had some help too, which comes in handy when you need a set of extra eyes or hold the flashlight.

 

[Rustedwrench]

Didn't have to lower the cradle, gas tank, or any of the other time consuming tasks that the smart manual says you have to (I think they only do all of that to drive the hours of the repairs higher so they can charge you more). Hope this helps anybody else who might have to do this job. It's not a quickie fix, but at least you now know how to do it easier.

Thanks for the follow-up. The manufacturers do not write extra time or steps into the repair procedure, since that would cost them extra on warranty repair claims. Besides which, the manufacturer does not make any money on out of warranty labor.

In the old-timey days when men were men and tools were made in the USA the manufacturers actually had real technicians performing involved repairs to document the service manual and repair time guides. I don't think they do that any more due to the cost involved. The repair manuals now seem to be written by inference from the assembly manuals for the manufacturing process. Sometimes they get it wrong. Usually, after a vehicle has been in production for a couple of years they assume the techs are more familiar with them and they cut the warranty time to save money.

 

[WhiteStarLine]

I agree completely that they wrote the workshop manual from an assembly/manufacturing point of view. I really wish Haynes would get on the ball and publish a repair manual for the person doing work like this in their driveway. I think the best repair manual I've ever read was "How to keep your Volkswagen alive!" Nice illustrations, humor, and lots of useful old school tips and tricks that I still use.

 

[WhiteStarLine]

Another thing I learned while doing this. When you need to change the belt or just take it off for repairs, loosen the bolt on the tensioner to about half out. Makes it easier to lever the tensioner pulley if you're using a serpentine belt tool from one of the big auto parts store. They work great and get the job done, but if you don't loosen the bolt on the tensioner, you'll hit the muffler and won't get the tensioner in the full down position. Just make sure you don't loosen it too much and cause it to fall out of it's notch. Just enough to get the handle of the tool past the muffler. Trust me, you'll save your knuckles and time.

 

[scirocco16v]

i found a resource for smart starter motor and alternators. He sells on amazon and I have had good luck with him so far. [email protected]

Amazon.com: Mitsubishi OE Alternator A005TG0991 for 2007 and up SMART FORTWO Cabrio Coupe MN137026 90A 12V: Automotive

 

[dittodan]

To WhiteStarLine,
I wonder if your alternator removal sequence will work on a 2009 model?


Dan
Rochester Hills, Michigan

 

[jwight]

It certainly should - no real mechanical differences in the two model years.

 

[dittodan]

WhiteStarLine Alternator Removal Instructions

@ WhiteStarLine

Yesterday, I printed out your instructions and proceeded to implement them. They worked perfectly for my 2009 Passion. I didn't have to add or subtract from what you wrote. They were great! I want to personally thank you. You saved me time & money. I am going to try to get the alternator rebuilt, if not, find a replacement.

Thank you so much for posting the steps.

keep up the good work....

Dan
Rochester Hills, MI

 

[MG McAnick]

I replaced my alternator today using the above instructions, for the most part. $95 from Rock Auto on line with a good customer 5% discount. I didn't have a proper tool for relieving the tension on the belt, so I wound up prying the tensioner with a big screw driver through the area created by removing the plastic inner fender and the cover over the crankshaft pulley. The tensioner has a hole in it that appears to need a 13MM hex key (AKA allen wench) to relieve that tension. There is no room to put one in beside the frame, even if I had one. I had some trouble putting the belt back on too, but that was solved by turning the crankshaft pulley with a socket and small breaker bar with the belt about 1/2 on. Realigning the bolts for the motor mount and the three long ones from near the alternator was a bit difficult, but accomplished by prying the WHOLE motor forward as it sat on the jack. I also left all five of those bolts loose until everything was lined up.

I think my alternator was fried by some (other) idiot hooking a jumper box or cables to it BACKWARDS. It apparently also blew the fuse in the back of the stereo. At least that's my theory since everything works now. The battery has filler caps that have a + cast into each plastic cap. That is actually for a screw driver to use in removing the caps to check and add water to the battery. They must have mistaken that + as indicating the positive cable was nearby. I have taken a marker and marked both the battery itself and floor nearby with a strong message that the "negative jumper cable goes here", with an arrow pointing to the negative post.

I probably spent three hours on the project, part of which was wasted looking for tools. Nice day, no snow, in my driveway.

 

[atikovi]

i found a resource for smart starter motor and alternators. He sells on amazon and I have had good luck with him so far. [email protected]

Amazon.com: Mitsubishi OE Alternator A005TG0991 for 2007 and up SMART FORTWO Cabrio Coupe MN137026 90A 12V: Automotive

Showing as out of stock. Remember what the price was when they had it?

 

[atikovi]

Update! Got the old alternator and the new one in tonight! Not as difficult as smart would have you think.
Here's what I did and had no problems:
1. removed rear right tire and plastic covers behind it.
2. Untensioned serpentine belt
3. loosened and removed the lower alternator bolt through the frame.
4. unhooked the plastic lines above the alternator from their clips (gave way more room)
5. removed positive wire from alternator
6. put a floor jack underneath the engine and loosened and removed the engine mounting bolts that are right next to the alternator (You have to anyways to get to the top bolt on the alternator)
7. removed the top alternator bolt
8. removed the sensor located in front of the alternator (You may be able to sneak it out without doing this, but again, gave more room to work with)
9. Removed the top of the engine mount (Surprisingly easy)
10. lowered the engine slightly
11. unclipped plug from alternator and was able to remove the alternator easily.
12. Did everything in reverse

Did this today and took a few pictures along the way if it helps anybody.
1) Remove negative battery cable from battery
2) Remove right rear wheel and fender liner. Liner attached by 3 push pin clips and 3 nuts (10mm socket) and you see this.

3) Remove the lower belt cover by removing 2 large push pins to get access to the belt tensioner

4) Release belt tension with a 12mm allen wrench that has been cut down on the short end to clear to frame.

5) Remove nut on alternator power output wire (13mm wrench)

6) Remove front alternator bolt (12mm socket with extension through wheel well)

7) Place jack under engine to take weight off right mount.

8) Remove 3 engine mount bolts at engine (e14 socket)

9) Remove 2 engine mount bolts at frame (17mm socket) First disconnect electrical connector from part above mount, then pull part up off mount and set aside, then remove mount from car.

10) Remove rear alternator mounting bolt and with a pry bar lift alternator off its mount and position sideways to remove connector.

11) Remove connector. Hard to do by hand so I used relay pliers with sticky vinyl tips to get a good grip.

12) Wiggle alternator out in this position,

 

[irishintelligence]

Replacing the alternator seems like a pretty involved process. I have full directions if you'd like, just PM me your email address.

Hey, I haven't posted 3 times, so I can't do PM, but any chance you still have the instructions for 2009 alternator replacement?
Thanks,
B

 

[jimvw57]

I replaced mine about a month ago.It was more of a ump in and do it process I had to remove the plastic splash guard behind the right rear wheel, right rear wheel and the right side motor mount to get to the alternator bolts.lowering the motor a bit also helps to get to the bolts. I removed them from the underside of the car (well, in the wheel well anyways) The wiring to the alternator is disconnected from above, and once the bolts for the alternator are removed, I pulled the alternator out from the top. I made up a belt tensioner tool by cutting down an allen wrench to fit between the motor and the frame, and used a socket and extension to make the handle side longer so I could compress the tensioner and put the belt in place.

I would suggest replacing the serpentine belt at the same time as mine failed about a week later.It is easier to replace it while you have it off.

 

[sidewinder]

Update! Got the old alternator and the new one in tonight! Not as difficult as smart would have you think.
Here's what I did and had no problems:
1. removed rear right tire and plastic covers behind it.
2. Untensioned serpentine belt
3. loosened and removed the lower alternator bolt through the frame.
4. unhooked the plastic lines above the alternator from their clips (gave way more room)
5. removed positive wire from alternator
6. put a floor jack underneath the engine and loosened and removed the engine mounting bolts that are right next to the alternator (You have to anyways to get to the top bolt on the alternator)
7. removed the top alternator bolt
8. removed the sensor located in front of the alternator (You may be able to sneak it out without doing this, but again, gave more room to work with)
9. Removed the top of the engine mount (Surprisingly easy)
10. lowered the engine slightly
11. unclipped plug from alternator and was able to remove the alternator easily.
12. Did everything in reverse

Didn't have to lower the cradle, gas tank, or any of the other time consuming tasks that the smart manual says you have to (I think they only do all of that to drive the hours of the repairs higher so they can charge you more). Hope this helps anybody else who might have to do this job. It's not a quickie fix, but at least you now know how to do it easier.

Thank you so much for posting this. I will have to do this repair on the weekend and I can't tell you how much stress and anxiety you have removed from my life with this post. It is funny how we all have knowledge on different topics. I wish I had the time to share some of my knowledge (actually I do that 8 hours per day in my job - very lucky to have the job I have but I need to take the time after hours) I'm an old fellow with many years experience and when I finally leave this earth, all that knowledge disappears. If any of you are Star Trek fans, you may remember "The Borg" where the collective knowledge was accessible by all the individuals - these type of forums are a step towards that collective knowledge (now you know how old I am with Star Trek references - laugh!

Anyway, as I was saying - THANK YOU - I will do my best to post a follow up on my experience with your detailed directions.

Mark