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Discussion Starter #1
I find it's nice to keep a runnning log of issues with my cars, it makes a nice place to record what's happened, what I've tried, and gives others context when helping me diagnose, so here we are.

I bought a used 2008 Passion in December 2019, knowing it had some "quirks", but the price was right; as with all used cars, you take your chances, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.

I'd owned it for all of 15 minutes when the 3 bars of death popped up the first time and I was in a bit of a panic, went through the re-teach of the transmission: Key off, key on, listen for the shifting to stop, move into each gear in turn pausing each time until reaching D, then back to P, turn it off, then start as usual. I had to re-teach it 2 more times on the 20 minute trip home and I was pretty sure I'd made a poor decision at this point.

I put it on the charger when I got home and it was fine for about a week, after that it would occasionally throw the 3 bars every few days and I've gotten proficient at coasting to safe places to preform a re-teach.

In the past couple of weeks I'd noticed that if it was going to throw 3 bars, it did so more often just after starting or perhaps in inclement weather. Only twice has it thrown the 3 bars after driving more than 10 minutes. I'd also noted occasional flicker and surging of the headlights, this got me to thinking it might be electrical, possibly the battery on it's way out. The OBD reader I use on my old car makes the Smart angry, so I ordered a replacement which is more compatible.

With the new OBD reader in place we monitored the battery through a drive and saw that not only was the battery low (12.4 +/-) but that the alternator was not putting out nearly enough power, only occasionally spiking to 13v or so. A look at the alternator connections showed some corrosion, so that will need to be cleaned. Installed a new battery, and it appears that now the alternator is putting out 14v, which is closer to what I would expect, but the terminals still need to be cleaned. Of note, the alternator appears to be much newer; having been replaced at some point in the recent past before it came into my hands.

The folowing morning I was greeted by the 3 bars again and it took several resets and stops before it once again, decided to start working again.

This trip a new event occured, the ABS light came on and remained lit along with the warning triangle on the dash. Need to figure this issue out as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I finally got a ODB/CAN scanner and read the CAN modules for error codes and got the following:
Module N3/15 (Me-SFI[ME] Control unit - P0318 "Open circuit at signal path Rough road detection"

Module N15/6 (Sprintshift Control Module) - P1800 "Transmission teach-in was required" (historic)

Module N10/10 (SAM Control Unit) - B1723 "immobilizer:transponder communication error detected" (historic)

Module N47-5 (ESP Control Unit) - C1323 "Fault in CAN communication with control unit N15/6(Sprintshift Control Unit)" (historic)

N2/7 (Restraint System Control Unit) - B11F0 "The message from control unit SAM is not available on the CAN bus" (historic)

N23 (Heater/AC Operating Unit) - B1002 "Control unit N23 (Heater/AC Operating Unit) is defective (interior temperature controller)" (historic)

N15/5 (Electronic Selector Lever Module Control Unit) - U0140 "No or incorrect CAN message from control unit N10/10 (SAM Control Unit)" (historic)

Seems I have some investigating to do....
 

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I had cleared all the error codes last time, but really hadn't had much opportunity to explore aside from some reading.
I metered the battery Sunday at 12.77v, today before starting it was 12.66v

Started fine, backed out, put in drive and instant 3 bars. It failed re-teach 3 times, succeeded on the fourth, at which point I pulled it back into the driveway to read codes.
Audibly, you can hear the motors cycling through the gears, then it ends with a squeeking sound that reminds me of the sound of putting my foot on the clutch of a car, that soft squeek of parts butting against each other and pressing. I don't know if it's the Clutch Actuator, a gear binding, or something else entirely.

I realized I wasn't using the CAN reader correctly and there were likely more codes available that I didn't cycle through previously.
Today's codes were...
From module "N15/6":
P0707 - Signals from incremental sensor of component M17 (gear motor) are unreasonable
P1800 - Transmission teach-in was required
P1801 - Teach-in of mechanism not successful

From module "N47-5"
C1301 - short or open circuit of CAN wires
 

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i would start with the voltage, I believe running it should be around 14 v. Check the belt, and if you end up replacing the alternator, put a new belt on at the same time. Then see what the codes say.
 

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Audibly, you can hear the motors cycling through the gears, then it ends with a squeeking sound that reminds me of the sound of putting my foot on the clutch of a car, that soft squeek of parts butting against each other and pressing. I don't know if it's the Clutch Actuator, a gear binding, or something else entirely.
I would back her up on the ramps and check the clutch actuator. There is a plethora of different mechanical as well as electrical symptoms that can arise when it’s out of adjustment, dirty and in need of a good cleaning. It’s an easy part to access with ramps and a creeper, and even if it doesn’t solve the problem, it’s maintenance that eventually would need to be performed thats behind you.
Im following this tread like a hawk, please keep us posted.
Paula
 

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i would start with the voltage, I believe running it should be around 14 v. Check the belt, and if you end up replacing the alternator, put a new belt on at the same time. Then see what the codes say.
Orignally with the old battery the alternator wasn't putting out enough voltage is seemed, but after battery replacement (it was due) the alternator appears to be putting out enough voltage (14v+/-)
I've been monitoring the battery and there does appear to be a drain somwhere, but it does it even with a new battery at full charge.

I would back her up on the ramps and check the clutch actuator. There is a plethora of different mechanical as well as electrical symptoms that can arise when it’s out of adjustment, dirty and in need of a good cleaning. It’s an easy part to access with ramps and a creeper, and even if it doesn’t solve the problem, it’s maintenance that eventually would need to be performed thats behind you.
Im following this tread like a hawk, please keep us posted.
Paula
I had considered that, but the code suggests it's a problem with M17 (gear shift motors) and not M18 (Clutch Actuators). Others have also suggested I examine the CA, and it's on my list. I'll probably get to the CA before the shift motors, so I suppose we'll see what happens.
 

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Good morning,

Since the shift Motor sits on top of the clutch actuator and can be found lower right of the air box. Access to it can be gained through the top. By removing the air box you can gain total access to it. But you don’t have to remove the air box to lubricate it. There is a small cap that sits on top of the shift motor. Over time the grease inside will solidify. You can pull the cap and give it a squirt of white lithium.
May I ask what make and model ODB/CAN scanner unit you’re using?
We are cut from the same cloth as far as keeping a log of issues encountered and corrected. Information is knowledge, Knowledge is wisdom
Paula
 
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