[Smarty_Tart]

Hi guys,
i have 2008 Smart Fortwo. I need to know how to lower the engine so that i can change the alternator.
Been looking online but i cant find anywhere on how to lower the engine so that i can get enough space to remove the alternator.

any help would be awesome thank you

 

[Jo e Lefors]

Hi guys,
i have 2008 Smart Fortwo. I need to know how to lower the engine so that i can change the alternator.
Been looking online but i cant find anywhere on how to lower the engine so that i can get enough space to remove the alternator.

any help would be awesome thank you

Someone on here posted about "Lowering Bolts" makes the job easy. Search for lowering bolts.

 

[smark]

 

[Smarty_Tart]

thanks for sharing those videos but they skip the part where they lower the engine

 

[Smarty_Tart]

Someone on here posted about "Lowering Bolts" makes the job easy. Search for lowering bolts.

i searched but i dont see anything.. it must be buried deep in

 

[Jo e Lefors]

i searched but i dont see anything.. it must be buried deep in

First post that comes up not buried at all.

Search lowering/bolts just as I typed it.

 

[Jo e Lefors]

First post that comes up not buried at all.

Search lowering/bolts just as I typed it.

If you're doing this kind of work I highly recommend a set of lowering bolts (450 589 00 62 00) sometimes referred to as "Record Release" bolts. Bolt lengths not including washer are 26 cm and 30 cm; thread size is M12x1.5. Grade 8.8. threaded length 50mm The official ones aren't especially...

that's what came up when I did a search

community.

 

[Jo e Lefors]

There is video or pictures I don't recall which.
You will have to do the search for those.
They are on the forum. Just takes time and patience.
Good luck

 

[jwight]

This requires a subscription, but well worth it for any smart owner: Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia

 

[emmasdad]

Hi guys,
i have 2008 Smart Fortwo. I need to know how to lower the engine so that i can change the alternator.
Been looking online but i cant find anywhere on how to lower the engine so that i can get enough space to remove the alternator.

any help would be awesome thank you

 

[Smarty_Tart]

If you're doing this kind of work I highly recommend a set of lowering bolts (450 589 00 62 00) sometimes referred to as "Record Release" bolts. Bolt lengths not including washer are 26 cm and 30 cm; thread size is M12x1.5. Grade 8.8. threaded length 50mm The official ones aren't especially...

that's what came up when I did a search

community.

hey where can i buy a set of these lowering bolts for my 2008 smart fortwo?

 

[Smarty_Tart]

This requires a subscription, but well worth it for any smart owner: Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia

thank you

 

[Jo e Lefors]

hey where can i buy a set of these lowering bolts for my 2008 smart fortwo?

You're on your own there.
I'm going to guess the internet is your best source.
Good luck

 

[gtdump]

hey where can i buy a set of these lowering bolts for my 2008 smart fortwo?

I got my set from mbonlineparts.com cheapest I could find them at the time. These are the two part numbers I have for them.
450 589 00 62 00
22156863/221589006200

Here's a thread where I lowered (and eventually removed) the engine from a 2010

2010 Smart Fortwo Engine Sub-Assembly Removal.

A while back I picked up a junker for parts. It's a 2010 and for the most part it's in good shape but was sold as having a bad engine, so there's no telling exactly what all is wrong with it. I'm a busy person and it can take me a while to get around to finishing some tasks, this one included...

www.smartcarofamerica.com

It's really pretty straightforward. If you're careful, you don't even need to remove the rear panel, but it does make a lot of things easier and isn't that hard, though not likely needed for the alternator. You will also find a 12mm hex or the appropriate specialty tool handy for the belt tensioner, but there's not a lot of room in there. Last I looked replacement tensioners were still for sale on RockAuto.

Things to watch out for is remembering to release the retainer for the brake lines and sensor wires where they enter the body on the driver's side, it'll get you several more inches of travel before having to disconnect things.

 

[wahi]

deleted msg

 

[Smarty_Tart]

I got my set from mbonlineparts.com cheapest I could find them at the time. These are the two part numbers I have for them.
450 589 00 62 00
22156863/221589006200

Here's a thread where I lowered (and eventually removed) the engine from a 2010

2010 Smart Fortwo Engine Sub-Assembly Removal.

A while back I picked up a junker for parts. It's a 2010 and for the most part it's in good shape but was sold as having a bad engine, so there's no telling exactly what all is wrong with it. I'm a busy person and it can take me a while to get around to finishing some tasks, this one included...

www.smartcarofamerica.com

It's really pretty straightforward. If you're careful, you don't even need to remove the rear panel, but it does make a lot of things easier and isn't that hard, though not likely needed for the alternator. You will also find a 12mm hex or the appropriate specialty tool handy for the belt tensioner, but there's not a lot of room in there. Last I looked replacement tensioners were still for sale on RockAuto.

Things to watch out for is remembering to release the retainer for the brake lines and sensor wires where they enter the body on the driver's side, it'll get you several more inches of travel before having to disconnect things.

hey thank you for that, i also saw on ebay this posting "Drain Bolt M12x 1.5 Special Thread Tool to Lower The Engine Armored 50mm Long"
Does a M12 X1.5 500

I got my set from mbonlineparts.com cheapest I could find them at the time. These are the two part numbers I have for them.
450 589 00 62 00
22156863/221589006200

Here's a thread where I lowered (and eventually removed) the engine from a 2010

2010 Smart Fortwo Engine Sub-Assembly Removal.

A while back I picked up a junker for parts. It's a 2010 and for the most part it's in good shape but was sold as having a bad engine, so there's no telling exactly what all is wrong with it. I'm a busy person and it can take me a while to get around to finishing some tasks, this one included...

www.smartcarofamerica.com

It's really pretty straightforward. If you're careful, you don't even need to remove the rear panel, but it does make a lot of things easier and isn't that hard, though not likely needed for the alternator. You will also find a 12mm hex or the appropriate specialty tool handy for the belt tensioner, but there's not a lot of room in there. Last I looked replacement tensioners were still for sale on RockAuto.

Things to watch out for is remembering to release the retainer for the brake lines and sensor wires where they enter the body on the driver's side, it'll get you several more inches of travel before having to disconnect things.

Thanks for pointing it out to me, i also saw this posting on ebay... Drain Bolt M12x 1.5 Special Thread Tool to Lower The Engine Armored 50mm Long. ... does this sound about right? an m12 x 1.5 50MM long bolt?

 

[gtdump]

hey thank you for that, i also saw on ebay this posting "Drain Bolt M12x 1.5 Special Thread Tool to Lower The Engine Armored 50mm Long"
Does a M12 X1.5 500


Thanks for pointing it out to me, i also saw this posting on ebay... Drain Bolt M12x 1.5 Special Thread Tool to Lower The Engine Armored 50mm Long. ... does this sound about right? an m12 x 1.5 50MM long bolt?

Negative, that looks entirely insufficient.

Bolt lengths are 26 cm and 30 cm, or about 10" and 12" in US Customary. They don't need to be threaded the entire length, just the last 50-75mm or so.
As I recall I paid a little under $80 for the set, which at first seemed a tad excessive so I thought I'd make a set as I have a machine shop, but after totalling materials and an estimate of time $80 started to sound quite reasonable. You can fabricate a set cheaper, but not by an enormous amount so I would recommend just buying a set. If you happen to live in eastern Wisconsin or central Indiana I can arrange the use of a set for a couple of weeks.

Here's an image of my set to help you get an idea of how long they are.

I have read of alternative methods of doing it that don't involve the lowering bolts, but I can't recommend them as the alternate methods I have read leave half of the subassembly unsecured.
I find the bolts have saved me more than what they cost in hassle and time, which for me makes it a no-brainer.


Edit: I presume it's apparent, but I think it's worth stating that the lowering bolts go in with the car on the ground and the body is then raised up off the subassembly.

Edit2: I see they're not as easy to find now.
Full spec I have on them is as follows:
450 589 00 62 00
Bolt lengths are 26 cm and 30 cm. Thread size is M12 x 1.5. Grade 8.8. Threaded length 50mm

If you go the fabrication route and don't have the tools or perhaps skill to make them yourself, I would talk to a local machinist or pop over to hobby-machinist.com and see if you can engage a local from there to help you out.



Edit 3:

Record Release Bolts For Lower The Rear W450589006200 | MB Online Parts

W450589006200 - Record Release Bolts For Lower The Rear

www.mbonlineparts.com

Looks like MBOnlineParts still has some, and the price has gone down. It would seem there's a "W" in front of the part # sometimes?

 

[DenisW]

A person should be able to use threaded rods, nuts and washers without purchasing the official bolts.

 

[Jo e Lefors]

Negative, that looks entirely insufficient.

Bolt lengths are 26 cm and 30 cm, or about 10" and 12" in US Customary. They don't need to be threaded the entire length, just the last 50-75mm or so.
As I recall I paid a little under $80 for the set, which at first seemed a tad excessive so I thought I'd make a set as I have a machine shop, but after totalling materials and an estimate of time $80 started to sound quite reasonable. You can fabricate a set cheaper, but not by an enormous amount so I would recommend just buying a set. If you happen to live in eastern Wisconsin or central Indiana I can arrange the use of a set for a couple of weeks.

Here's an image of my set to help you get an idea of how long they are.
View attachment 66242

I have read of alternative methods of doing it that don't involve the lowering bolts, but I can't recommend them as the alternate methods I have read leave half of the subassembly unsecured.
I find the bolts have saved me more than what they cost in hassle and time, which for me makes it a no-brainer.


Edit: I presume it's apparent, but I think it's worth stating that the lowering bolts go in with the car on the ground and the body is then raised up off the subassembly.

Edit2: I see they're not as easy to find now.
Full spec I have on them is as follows:
450 589 00 62 00
Bolt lengths are 26 cm and 30 cm. Thread size is M12 x 1.5. Grade 8.8. Threaded length 50mm

If you go the fabrication route and don't have the tools or perhaps skill to make them yourself, I would talk to a local machinist or pop over to hobby-machinist.com and see if you can engage a local from there to help you out.



Edit 3:

Record Release Bolts For Lower The Rear W450589006200 | MB Online Parts

W450589006200 - Record Release Bolts For Lower The Rear

www.mbonlineparts.com

Looks like MBOnlineParts still has some, and the price has gone down. It would seem there's a "W" in front of the part # sometimes?

I'm ordering a set "just in case" the job goes much easier and SAFER using the proper tools.