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I have a 2009 Smart Fortwo that I bought in January of last year. I drove it to work Monday morning, the 21st, and then when I went to go home for the day, it wouldn't start.

When I turn the key, the dash lights come on, there's a click from the back (I assume the starter), then the car repeatedly beeps for a few seconds, and then nothing. The battery light, oil light, and check engine light stay on when the other lights go out. I check my fluid levels regularly, and the oil level has always been fine. The alternator was replaced about 8 months ago. The starter was replaced 6 months ago. The secondary air injection pump (I think that's what it was) was replaced about a month ago. I had a friend check the battery with a multimeter, and the battery is just fine. I am able to move the shifter, and when I do so, the dash displays the gear the car should be in.

I hooked up an OBD scanner, and there aren't any codes in the system. I have no idea what's going on with my car. I have arrangements to tow it to my mechanic on Friday, but any advice as to something I could try on my own would be appreciated.

Thank you all!
 

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I also have a 2009. Had the same problem. AAA came out - gave a jump and it was fine. Two days later - same problem. Got a new battery. A few days later - same problem. I did discover that the radio will turn on even without a key. Took it to the shop. They said they couldn't find any problem, and thought the radio thing was a "Smart Car thing". So I got it home - and yep a few days later - dead as a doornail. I saw that this problem was also listed on the car problems site, with no resolution, so I hope someone here can help
 

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Just in case you don't check the other thread, the radio is designed to be operated without a key. It's a common feature in European cars. Some American cars will also do it to some degree. :)

Both of your starting issues have me a bit baffled. Typically, starting issues will be related to an old battery, but it sounds like you have those squared away.

Only advice I'd have for the both of you right now is to check your grounding posts. Loose, disconnected, and corroded grounds can cause headaches. The ones I know of are in the battery well, in the driver footwell, and in the back next to the engine bay lid.

My 2005 isn't starting right now, but that's because the alternator pulley decided to rust. Which...uggggh.

In the meantime, more troubleshooting can be found at evilution.co.uk
 

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I have a 2009 Smart Fortwo that I bought in January of last year. I drove it to work Monday morning, the 21st, and then when I went to go home for the day, it wouldn't start.

When I turn the key, the dash lights come on, there's a click from the back (I assume the starter), then the car repeatedly beeps for a few seconds, and then nothing. The battery light, oil light, and check engine light stay on when the other lights go out. I check my fluid levels regularly, and the oil level has always been fine. The alternator was replaced about 8 months ago. The starter was replaced 6 months ago. The secondary air injection pump (I think that's what it was) was replaced about a month ago. I had a friend check the battery with a multimeter, and the battery is just fine. I am able to move the shifter, and when I do so, the dash displays the gear the car should be in.

I hooked up an OBD scanner, and there aren't any codes in the system. I have no idea what's going on with my car. I have arrangements to tow it to my mechanic on Friday, but any advice as to something I could try on my own would be appreciated.

Thank you all!
Hello all, i too am having this same issue exactly except my car cranks for the duration of 13 beeps from the dash usually giving up at 12 beeps. the alternator spins but the engine wont start.
Did the OP ever get this resolved?
 

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First, get the battery tested... not just a multimeter voltage check. Any auto parts shop will do this for free.
Since you cannot drive there, remove the battery and take it to a shop, or even wallmart... they will load test the battery.
You said it cranks... so is the engine actually turning over? Or is the starter spinning, without engaging?
 

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First, get the battery tested... not just a multimeter voltage check. Any auto parts shop will do this for free.
Since you cannot drive there, remove the battery and take it to a shop, or even wallmart... they will load test the battery.
You said it cranks... so is the engine actually turning over? Or is the starter spinning, without engaging?
thanks for the reply but oddly enough i tried it today and it turned on! mustve just been the cold, or something i did but um happy. Drove all day and had multiple stops started up great!
 

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Drive-on, enjoy, smile!
OOF nvm stopped again and didn't want to start. Had to get it towed for $130, I thinks it's the fuel pump cus i took it out cleaned it and put it back in to test it, with the tank hanging under it I hooked everything back up and put the key in 1st position; had the pump in hand and could feel and hear the pump going so I put it back in the tank.

With everything put back and with a jump from a friend we got the engine to run but then it sputtered out after about 3 seconds, next two tries yielded similar results but shorter or no engine start. Well hopefully the new pump fixes my car as my hand was forced to buying it... Shortly after testing the tank slid off its stand and snapped both nozzles on the pump off.
P.S. Refrain from punching doors, remarkably plastic still dents.
 

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If anything I got some in their during disassembly but doubt it. I've looked into this since before my first post and I'm pretty sure it's the pump, if not I'm rolling it down the mountain.
 

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YEEEEEEAAA BOIIII! it was the pump! talk about a pain in the ass. Had to do the replacement myself, outdoors, in the snow with 25mph winds and a make-shift lift system with logs an spare 2x4s. had to go indoors every 5 minutes because the cold; from 9am to 4pm the job took longer than i wanted it to but its done and my car works!
 
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