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Hello , Car is a 2009 Smart
Hope you guys and girls can help me out. Car has about 35000miles on it

Got a major cracking sound in front of my car. We got it on a hoist and everything in the front end of that car is as tight as it could be

The cracking is alot worst when car wasent used for a few hours or over night. If its bumpy thats where the sound will come out. Its like something rubbing together very hard, Saturday it never did it but I took it again Monday and today and wow just minimal dip in road and it got very bad.

I checked online and some places suggest its the inside of the struts that are going bad making this very anoiying cracking sound

Anyways hope we can figure it out here

Any help will be very appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Hello , Car is a 2009 Smart
Hope you guys and girls can help me out. Car has about 35000miles on it

Got a major cracking sound in front of my car. We got it on a hoist and everything in the front end of that car is as tight as it could be

The cracking is alot worst when car wasent used for a few hours or over night. If its bumpy thats where the sound will come out. Its like something rubbing together very hard, Saturday it never did it but I took it again Monday and today and wow just minimal dip in road and it got very bad.

I checked online and some places suggest its the inside of the struts that are going bad making this very anoiying cracking sound

Anyways hope we can figure it out here

Any help will be very appreciated.

Thanks
Suspension problems are the worst. I would recommend you visit a smart center, Mercedes-Benz dealer to have it checked out. A bent strut or damaged strut mount will often bring suspension noises at impact with potholes or bumps in the road.
 

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A cracking sound is not a good sound you want to hear from the front end. If it is worse when it starts up cold, it sounds like it may be a shock, or a bushing, again only assumptions. You may not have any choice but to take it to someone who is familiar with what is supposed to be in there and how it should look. You might try a place that handles foreign car alignments but they won't be cheap either.
 

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MY08 cabrio MY09 cabrio Brabus MY15 ED
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at $150 an hour at the dealer here I think not.
How many smarts do you see daily?

As a niche/exotic, it may be hard to find that QUALIFIED $75 an hour "smart" front end mechanic?
 

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Dealer, because they can get deep in the measurements of the suspension geometry and front end alignment in ways most shops won't have access to the most reliable information.
 

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Chassis noises that are not repeatable are the worst to locate. What I have done in the past is use my stethoscope. I remove the metal probe and tubing from it a substitute a long piece of identical clear hose I purchased at the home center. I tie the end of the hose to a part of the chassis in the area from which the noise appears to come. It is mostly trial and error to get to the point where the noise is loudest.

Any shop will have a problem with this because most will not take the time required, nor should they without being paid for it. The noise monkey belongs to you, not the shop. Any shop where the techs are paid flat rate, which is the vast majority of them, will be the same. They take a guess and throw a part at it. They only get paid when you pay for their time, whether it is for diagnosis or replacement of a part.

I had in the past taken a Honda that was under warranty to the dealer to correct a noise in the right front. I told them exactly how to reproduce the noise, which they did. They eventually replaced a strut, strut mount, hub bearing and axle without ever finding the noise. I tracked the noise down myself and told them which part to replace. One new right side engine mount and the noise was gone.
 

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The control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings can get VERY noisy, especially if they have been exposed to wet road salts. It could be as simple as that. The sway arm bushings are easy to open up and lube with anti-sieze. My A arm bushings were more difficult, requiring multiple applications of WD-40. (Spray, drive, repeat) They are now quiet.
 

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Usually what happens is the rubber of the control arm bushing should be bonded to the outer shell detaches and causes the noise.
 
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