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Discussion Starter #1
Yet another of my threads, I keep separating them so that when someone else is searching they don't have to dig through a pile of unrelated stuff to get to the relevant bits.

For reference, here's the thread about separating the subassembly from the body. Initially I intended to repair the original motor, I still do, but that's going to be a much longer project so to speed things up I found a used motor with 65K miles on it to swap in. I got ahead of myself a little bit and ordered it before I was really ready for it, so I had to pickup my pace a bit to get things ready for it.

Here's the "new" motor, if it runs as well as it looks I'll be happy. It came with an array of extras still bolted on, the only one I explicitly asked for was the intake manifold since the other one was melted. Kindly overlook the yellow blob, I clipped out the shipping info.
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I had taken a bit of steel tubing and cut it in half, bent up on side to get the right angle, and welded them together to make a lock for the flywheel. It's worked pretty well thus far, not as nice looking as the factory tool, but does the job.
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Today's primary task was getting a flywheel installed. The service manual calls for 20Nm + 90 degrees. Now I'm ready for the clutch, but I'm out of time today.
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Discussion Starter #2
Comments and advice welcome, I'm not terribly experienced with this process so any help is appreciated.
I think for the clutch I will 3D print an alignment tool; I believe a shaft 15.5mm in diameter and 32mm long will fit the flywheel nicely, and the splines in the clutch are slightly larger at 16.75mm in diamter. That should allow me to put the tool in, place the clutch in place and have it aligned well enough....I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The old clutch is beyond tolerances so this is on hold a few days while I wait for a new Sachs K70532-01 to arrive. In the interim I'll be working to see if I can get the old wiring harness repaired with bits from the partial that came with the motor.

Edit:
According to specs clutch thickness should be 3.1mm with a maximum of 2.0mm wear. Existing clutch is worn beyond that limit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I swapped out the wiring harness tonight. It seems the plug for the oil pressure sensor is broken on both harnesses. It has a single wire leading to it and is right next to the oil filter; anyone know where to find a replacement connector that doesn't involve chopping up a third wiring harness?

Here's what I believe to be a crop of what the plug looks like.
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Discussion Starter #6
In case some images might help someone out there, I took time to get some images of the various connections. I don't think I missed any, but if I did, kindly point it out.

Starting at the front of the motor, the dark connector which is circled is the A/C pump clutch.
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There's on on the throttle body
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Then three more...
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Back on top....
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And I somehow missed this one in the last shot....
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Following along there's an O2 sensor for the cat...
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There's two on the underside of the motor.
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Two grounds here, the brown one is not part of this harness..

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And lastly, my broken oil pressure connector which I need to figure out how I am going to fix it.
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
New motor mounts arrived today. Engine and trans reunited, new mounts installed, and assembly is back on the subframe but not torqued down.
As is often the case, I wish after the fact that I had taken more pictures.
The reluctor rings on the axles looked pretty sad, so I went at one of them with a wire wheel and pick and it cleaned up nicely. Much of the original paint was flaking off, so I picked at it to remove the loose spots, which was most of it. The rings seem to have moe service life left, so I'm going to be lazy and just repaint. I have rings should they be needed later. Need to remove the other side and clean it up too, then paint them both and a few small patches of surface rust on the De Dion tube itself.

I'll try and remember to get a before/after picture of the rings.
Edit: Here they are; side by side, one cleaned the other not.
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And for those who might wonder what a worn out motor mount looks like, the rubber starts cracking and ripping, eventually separating entirely as in this case.
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Discussion Starter #8
Axles cleaned and repainted and new axle seals installed (A 013 997 61 46). I used one of the fancy dual purpose seal drivers for the axle seals, seems you can install Smart ForTwo axle seals and use it on 1-11/16 nuts/bolts. What will they think of next! (it's shown with one of the old seals)
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Discussion Starter #9
I find it interesting that the driver's side shaft, the short one, has a shield that covers the extended lip on the seal but the longer shaft (shown above) does not. At first I thought perhaps I'd misplaced the shield, or someone before me had, but a look at my 2008 shows the same setup. Go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Today's work, installed the secondary air pump. Not much, but it's progress.
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And here it is installed.
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Installed a new serpentine belt yesterday. There's an official tool to flex the "poly-v belt tensioning device", but I don't have one. The hole for it is a 12mm hex, so I looked at my allen wrenches to see if I had a 12, but no-go. So in the end I went to my scrap steel bin and fished out a hunk of O2 tool steel (it was all I had in 5/8") and make one quick. Slot the tool into the hole and lever on it with a 12mm wrench.

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Discussion Starter #11
Exciting progress in the break-neck speed of reassembly! Two days ago I reinstalled the AC compressor, took all of pehaps 20 minutes. We're getting closer and closer to the point where I'll be able to see if this was all wasted effort and money.

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Next up will likely be the coolant hoses.
There have been a few times when I've realized that I didn't take nearly good enough pictures to see how things were routed and having another working car has been handy.
I still need to sort out the oil pressure sensor wiring, but I've gotten nowhere on the connectors. I've considered fabricating a new connector, but am still undecided what route I will take.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Update, I reached out to a friend who's better at finding odd parts than I am. In relatively short order he came up with 1J0973701A as an Audi part that seems to be a match for the oil pressure sensor connector. I will follow up when it arrives.

Update to update:
I had also reached out to @SmartMadness , having ordered parts from them before and hoping they might have a salvaged connector; seems they didn't, but Art sent me a link to a pigtail on Amazon

There are times when a vendor goes that step beyond what you really expect of them and delivers, much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
OK, I'm lost here. Reattaching the subframe and I just can't seem to get the parking brake / hand brake to go back together. I know I'm missing something, but for the life of me I don't know what it is. I've tried for a couple of hours now and I thought I had it twice, but I didn't.

I have the corrugated side to the left, it goes into the guilde sleeve, but the manual talks about a catch hook on the guide sleeve which must point crosswise to the direction of travel, but the assosciated image is one step above useless.

Can anyone offer a clue here?

I've read a post over on clubsmartcar by @tolsen which gives much of the same info but I'm missing something and need a hand.

I also found this post by @WhiteNBlack08 that suggests much the same.

I even looked on evilution, but came up empty handed
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Horray! As happens from time to time I slept on the issue, went into work and largely didn't have time to obsess over it. When I got back to it I took the driver's seat back out so I could get the best view possible without tearing the carpet out, becasue that was my next step if I couldn't get it figured out.

I lifted the subassembly up enough that the hand brake pull rod extended up about an inch or so as you can see in the pictures. I fussed with it for 10-15 minutes, seeing what parts moved, what didn't and what might possibly fit where. I poked my big meaty fingers in the tiny spaces, but I couldn't find the slot the rod was supposed to go in (no jokes!). I had previously found that part of it moved about 60 degrees and had surmised this was probably the catch hook, but couldn't make it work yesterday. Further playing with it today allowed me to get it reassembled and it appears to be working now.

The "catch hook" as seen from underneath the hand brake is circled in yellow, it has a spring loaded bit at the end and the whole piece (not just the spring loaded bit) should swing down about 60 degrees or so to get them to align. It still took a couple of tries with me poking about in there with my fingers to push and pull the rod to get it all aligned.
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Here's another shot to hopefully give the next person a little more context.

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Having the seat out isn't necessary, but it sure did make figuring it out easier.

Next is connecting the coolant lines.

As an aside, now that I've used the lowering bolts / record release bolts more times than I ever imagined I would have I'm going to say that I really wish I had a set of these for every car I've owned. It takes maybe 10 minutes to install them and they save so much time, hassle, and blood. If you're doing any work in the engine bay and don't have these get some, worth every penny. Do remember to release the brake line bracket on the driver's side inner wheel well when lowering, they'll bind up otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Toyota oil pressure sensor isn't a match unfortunately, so I would avoid it unless you're willing to modify it. The plug dimensions are good, but the retaining clip is on the wrong face so it doesn't lock into place. One could probably zip tie or modify it, which may yet happen, but I've ordered the Audi connector as it looks like hte retaining clip might be right.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Audi 1J0973701A plug is good fit and the retainer locks the connector in place, so it'sa much better replacement for the connector to the oil pressure switch than the Toyota one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As always happens, you're fixing one thing and to get that done you have to break and fix a few other things along the way...
Since the brake system had been opened, I knew I needed to bleed the brakes to get the air out. Simple enough to do, except when the bleeder valve has joined to the wheel cylinder and it shears off.
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Since the bleeder sheared off I decided to just replace the wheel cylinders instead of hassling with it further. I picked up a replacement set and went to work removing the brake drum so I could swap out the wheel cylinders.
There's a torx bolt that secures to the face of the drum which needs to be removed and that led to one of those moments when you recognize the difference between a cheap tool and a better quality one. When I bought the Smart I picked up an inexpensive set of Torx and E-Torx bits at Harbor Freight, otherwise known as Horrible Fright. Not to knock them too hard, some of their stuff is pretty good, some is fair, and some is pure trash; the bit in question is somewhere between fair and trash as it shattered without a lot of effort. Thankfully I had another set which are of at least nominlly better quality to get the job done.

Today's work was figuring out my errors in refilling the coolant. There's a small hose up top between the head and transmission. It will be below the secondary air injection valve or below the fuel line to the fuel rail. Look between the airbox resonator and the head, you should see it. It will be a small hose which connects to a steel tube rearward from the the throttle body.

He's a horrible image from the service manual that if you squint just right, might be recognizable enough to help.
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Discussion Starter #18
Yesterday's work was connecting the pigtail for the oil pressor sensor and filling the transmission.
My only complaint with the Audi connector is it locks in tight and takes significant fiddling to remove. I cleaned up both ends and soldered them together then put on a couple layers of shrink tube to keep it clean and dry.
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For anyone who isn't sure where the fill and drain plugs are on the transmission I took some pictures. With the rear panel, crash bar, and exhaust out of the way it's easy to see; not that either is hard to see with all that in place, but it is harder to photograph.

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The fill plug on this trans is corroded and chewed up, it's still usable, but I suspect in another 10 years it's going to be a lot more fun to remove.
Anyone know a reasonably priced source for M18x1.5-12mm plugs? The original bit is an H8, but I don't really care if that is the same. If I can't find some I may fabricate one.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Wow, the car has seen very little progress these past 2 weeks; in my defense I have been busy getting other projects done before the snow comes in to stay a while.

The only progress I have made was to put a new clamp in the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail and to repair a captured nut in the exhaust manifold to retain the heat shield.

Here's a few shots of the repair, this will have to serve as a fix until I get enough time free to make the last hurrah and start it (hopefully!).

The repair is nothing special, it's not even worth noting but with so little else going on I'll make a show of it so you don't think I've been over sleeping....

As happens, exhaust parts go through a lot of extreme heat cycles which can lead to pretty bad corrosion, botls get rusted in place and prying on them only causes the attached bracket to bend and warp. Only fix I know at that point is to put a cutoff wheel in the angle grinder and lop off the captured nut (the nut welded onto the bracket) and put a new one in. These are M6 as I recall.

I didn't take a pic of the old bolt, picture a reddish brown lump that was at one point an e-torx bolt and you've got it.

Here's the new nut in place with a bolt to hold it while I give it a quick hit with the mig welder. I really need to get motivated and get tig welder installed. Neither is a great welder, but I think the tig would have been a better choice than the flux-core mig.
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And here it is post tack, one on each side. I had the heat up a tad high and the bolt received some spatter so I tossed it in the scrap metal bin and will use a new one.
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It's a bit further along, but the heat shield itself is going to need some repair too, the corrosion ate a hole where the bolt contacted it.
I promise that I'll try and get something done before next Monday!
 
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