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Discussion Starter #21
Yay, I had presumed that the heat shields were aluminum, but they are steel! I cut a small patch out of some scrap sheet steel and tack welded it into place and put a fender washer beneath the bolt to help hold it all together.

The exhaust manifold, cat, heatshields, and rear crossmember have been reinstalled. I think technically I could start it at this point with no real harm, but I'd like to get the muffler reinstalled first. Just need to replace two bolts....hopefully it won't take me another 2 weeks to get that done.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
More progress today, getting ever closer and closer.
I reinstalled the rest of the exhaust. I had contemplated lowering the engine again to make installing it easier, but figured I'd give it a try as it was. I removed the two bolts that hold the heat shield onto the cat to allow easier access to the bolts. It works, but I'd recommened lowering the engine as it makes is significantly easier and it's so easy to do, especially with the rear panel and crashbar out of the way. Without the flexible ratchet, I don't think it would be nearly as easy to deal with without lowering the engine.
64764


The flexible wrench I'm using here is one of these: 3/8 in. Drive T-Bar With Flexible Ratchet

Once I got the exhaust installed I was thinking it was right about time to test it, so I gave things a quick check only to realize I still had the air box and resonator to reinstall.....which pretty much can't be done without lowering the engine... So down it came and I reinstalled those as well. As I called it for the night, the lowering bolts are still installed and the body is slightly lifted off the drive subassembly. So that's another item to fix the order of reassembly when I get a time machine.
 

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...I still don't get why people working on plugs replacement...air box and filter work...oil and filter or even exhaust duties don't lift the body....so much easier...

Jetfuel...just saying
 

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Discussion Starter #24
...I still don't get why people working on plugs replacement...air box and filter work...oil and filter or even exhaust duties don't lift the body....so much easier...

Jetfuel...just saying
Yeah, it makes the work so much easier for what is perhaps an extra 10 minutes effort.....effort which will save more than the 10 minutes it takes.
I did it mostly as a curiosity and while it's possible I certainly wouldn't recommend it. I can't imagine taking off two crusty old bolts that way or trying to remove the two M6 bolts that hold the heat shield down without lowering it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So today I gave it a go, I wasn't expecting it to fire right up.....and it didn't. I cranked it over a few times and then suddenly, nothing. I can hear what I think is the starter solenoid clicking, but nothing out of the starter. Checked all the fuses I was aware of, checked everything 20A and over in the SAM, checked the 200A off the battery to the charging circuit, checked the 50A off to the side of the battery, all good so I think my next step is to lower the engine again (I'm getting really good at this step) and look at the starter for obvious issue and probably remove it for testing.

I did throw the scanner on it (meant to do that before starting too, forgot) and read/cleared all the codes. After trying the only code I got was B1669 which my scanner reports as "Errors in the electrical wire to the jerk running lights(open circuit)" and online sources report as "Mirror Passenger Up/Down Motor Stalled". Not sure what it means, but when get to the starter I'll be able to check th wiring too.

I know I can take the starter to the auto parts store, but I may look into what it takes to test it here at home. I'm not an electronics guy; I think I understand how the solenoid and starter work, but I want to be sure before starting any jiggery-pokery as it's better to be certain than sorry.
Suggestions welcome.
 

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...place starter in a vice...ground the starter...feed VDC to solenoid lug and apply VDC to solenoid spade connector...if no go apply VDC directly to starter lug...

Jetfuel...BTDT
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I got lucky, I lowered the engine and started looking around, jiggling cables and it seems the power cable to the solenoid wasn't tight...I'd aparently missed it. While I was at it I cleaned up the corrosion with a wire wheel like I should have the first time and now it turns over fine. I have left the lowering pins in for now, I suspect they will be needed again.

Unfortunately the no-run issue persists; no relevant codes, so no luck there as the B1669 is the only error. There appears to be fuel at least up to the fuel rail as when I loosened the short piece of hose connecting the fuel line to the rail, it leaked gas. So I'm pretty sure I have fuel, though I suppose one or more injectors could not be working. I swear I did a compresion test on the motor, but I don't see it noted, if I end up having to test for spark I'll check compression then too.

I did notice the battery dropping to 8.4 volts during cranking, which seems too low. Next time I will have to either swap in the battery from my woking car or connect the booster. If that doesn't resolve the issue I'll see what it takes to check the injectors.

As usual, advice of things I may have missed or test tips appreciated. Seems so close.
 

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I got lucky, I lowered the engine and started looking around, jiggling cables and it seems the power cable to the solenoid wasn't tight...I'd aparently missed it. While I was at it I cleaned up the corrosion with a wire wheel like I should have the first time and now it turns over fine. I have left the lowering pins in for now, I suspect they will be needed again.

Unfortunately the no-run issue persists; no relevant codes, so no luck there as the B1669 is the only error. There appears to be fuel at least up to the fuel rail as when I loosened the short piece of hose connecting the fuel line to the rail, it leaked gas. So I'm pretty sure I have fuel, though I suppose one or more injectors could not be working. I swear I did a compresion test on the motor, but I don't see it noted, if I end up having to test for spark I'll check compression then too.

I did notice the battery dropping to 8.4 volts during cranking, which seems too low. Next time I will have to either swap in the battery from my woking car or connect the booster. If that doesn't resolve the issue I'll see what it takes to check the injectors.

As usual, advice of things I may have missed or test tips appreciated. Seems so close.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Whelp, the hope for an easy fix isn't in the cards. Swapped in my good battery and the same results, time to dig a little deeper...
 

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Discussion Starter #32
...what's your fuel pressure at the rail???

Jetfuel...???
No idea, but I do know there is some pressure. I will have to borrow/buy a gauge to find out.
In the interim, I'll try to get around to checking for spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I tested the injectors today, all work as expected. When I disconnected the fuel line again, it was under pressure so I'm 99% certain the fuel pump is working correctly; will test when the gauge arrives anyhow, but I'm dismissing the fuel system as a factor until then,

This got me to thinking that I have no idea what gas is in it and how long it's been sitting. It's probably fine, but I'd rather drain the fuel and go with fresh fuel I trust. I've read the car's fuel pump is prone to damage if ran dry, so I don't want to use it to empty the tank. Can I connect a universal electric pump (low pressure or high pressure) to the fuel line where it connects to the rail and pump the gas out of the tank with that?

If I can't use an external pump, what's the best way to drain the tank?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Can I connect a universal electric pump (low pressure or high pressure) to the fuel line where it connects to the rail and pump the gas out of the tank with that?
I tested this and it appears the answer is "no", at least not with a low pressure pump.
 
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