Smart Car of America Forum banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
After a few days of not being able to use my 2013 ED and many months with hit or miss errors.
I opened my hatch, removed a few things, chg cables and spare tire.
I opened the plastic hatch that allows rear bulb changing, and pulled on some of the wires and plugs.

Now my car starts and drives without errors.
I know the chaffing was in that area so I just thought move them around and see!

BERY HAPPY!!!
Certainly worth a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
So I opened up the side panel behind passenger, and the wires look ok.
I still had one failure since, but just moved wires, I opened the ecu, solder looks ok.
Look at screenshots in this album, still have not even found prev Chaffed area dealer changed me for repair.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
The HV battery is never totally discharged if I understand things correctly. Even when it indicates that it is totally discharged and the car stops, it is apparently programmed so that a total discharge to you is actually maybe a 95% discharge or so. That's a built in safety feature. Same thing happens at the upper end. A 100% charge is only about a 95% charge in reality.

What we have seen happen is that a discharged 12v battery causes issues with "talking" to the HV battery. We think that the actual cells in the HV battery are still good, but that the part or parts that stop communication are not individually replaceable, at least by Mercedes/Smart dealers. Thus the need to replace the entire unit.

Again, please take my thoughts with a grain of salt. If anyone has better info or can correct me, please do so.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 19,500 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 17,000 miles
Ok. I forgot one detail. A couple of years ago the 12V battery died after sitting in my garage for several weeks over the winter. I live in Indiana so it gets cold. I plugged in the car charger regularly and didn’t know there was a problem until I tried to drive it. I charged the 12V battery and everything was back to normal. Haven’t even thought about it until this incident. What was the difference this time other than we had driven it appx 3 weeks before everything went dead .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Ok. I forgot one detail. A couple of years ago the 12V battery died after sitting in my garage for several weeks over the winter. I live in Indiana so it gets cold. I plugged in the car charger regularly and didn’t know there was a problem until I tried to drive it. I charged the 12V battery and everything was back to normal. Haven’t even thought about it until this incident. What was the difference this time other than we had driven it appx 3 weeks before everything went dead .
Ok. I forgot one detail. A couple of years ago the 12V battery died after sitting in my garage for several weeks over the winter. I live in Indiana so it gets cold. I plugged in the car charger regularly and didn’t know there was a problem until I tried to drive it. I charged the 12V battery and everything was back to normal. Haven’t even thought about it until this incident. What was the difference this time other than we had driven it appx 3 weeks before everything went dead .
The fact that the mfg missed kind of an important detail is unbelievable.
You would think some intelligent EV engineer could figure a fix without replacing the entire HV battery.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,381 Posts
So I opened up the side panel behind passenger, and the wires look ok.
I still had one failure since, but just moved wires, I opened the ecu, solder looks ok.
Look at screenshots in this album, still have not even found prev Chaffed area dealer changed me for repair.

Keith - initially it was thought that the wire chafing was happening behind that panel on the passenger side where you looked. But a later post indicated that the chafing was under the car, kind of below that area. The poster included a photo. If you can't find the thread, let me know and I'll try to help you find it.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 19,500 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 17,000 miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,121 Posts
The HV battery is never totally discharged if I understand things correctly. Even when it indicates that it is totally discharged and the car stops, it is apparently programmed so that a total discharge to you is actually maybe a 95% discharge or so. That's a built in safety feature. Same thing happens at the upper end. A 100% charge is only about a 95% charge in reality.
Len
Len,

Actually, in the case of these "brickings" the battery really does get totally discharged by the apparent bug in the BMS. Recall in that long "EV Battery Rplacement" thread that the DIYers, once they removed and opened the pack, found that the entire pack voltage was less than 30 volts and a few tenths of a volt per cell.

And Reed,

Yes, believe it or not, the battery pack is treated as a "black box" and even if the problem is likely only a small piece of hardware the only recourse is replacing the entire battery pack - effectively rendering the car a write-off. Although in this case a software bug that MB is refusing to own up to is totally discharging the cells, which does render them unsafe. Totally idiotic. Criminally so in my opinion.

But yes, some intrepid DIYers have resurrected their bricked battery packs - it involves opening the pack and very carefully and slowly charging the cells, then getting a re-flashed BMS (internal pack component) from an obscure shop in the Ukraine. See my recent post in the 'HV SYSTEM WORKSHOP" thread for more info.

Does anyone have any ideas about how we could compile a list of such aggrieved owners of electronically totaled ED's and pursue a class-action lawsuit? These pack brickings certainly to levels of egregiousness far beyond the hot-weather capacity loss issue in early-model Nissan LEAF's and LEAF owners successfully won a class action lawsuit against Nissan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Keith - initially it was thought that the wire chafing was happening behind that panel on the passenger side where you looked. But a later post indicated that the chafing was under the car, kind of below that area. The poster included a photo. If you can't find the thread, let me know and I'll try to help you find it.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 19,500 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 17,000 miles
Len
Thanks for the info


I reviewed the pics and videos but I’m kinda confused at what they were trying to show. Not sure where that circuit board is located. Just as well. I
have no business messing with the
circuitry.
reed
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,381 Posts
See the write up and photos here in Post #34.


Len
2014 EV Coupe 19,500 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 17,000 miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
So i messed with the dealer splices/repairs and i have the hv workshop message, but car starts. I must have tightened something, or eliminated network crosstalk. Also started to cut away factory harness. I found a rubber nonhardening goo white in color looks like silly puddy.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
So i messed with the dealer splices/repairs and i have the hv workshop message, but car starts. I must have tightened something, or eliminated network crosstalk. Also started to cut away factory harness. I found a rubber nonhardening goo white in color looks like silly puddy.
Thanks! Can’t hurt to try this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Len,

Actually, in the case of these "brickings" the battery really does get totally discharged by the apparent bug in the BMS. Recall in that long "EV Battery Rplacement" thread that the DIYers, once they removed and opened the pack, found that the entire pack voltage was less than 30 volts and a few tenths of a volt per cell.

And Reed,

Yes, believe it or not, the battery pack is treated as a "black box" and even if the problem is likely only a small piece of hardware the only recourse is replacing the entire battery pack - effectively rendering the car a write-off. Although in this case a software bug that MB is refusing to own up to is totally discharging the cells, which does render them unsafe. Totally idiotic. Criminally so in my opinion.

But yes, some intrepid DIYers have resurrected their bricked battery packs - it involves opening the pack and very carefully and slowly charging the cells, then getting a re-flashed BMS (internal pack component) from an obscure shop in the Ukraine. See my recent post in the 'HV SYSTEM WORKSHOP" thread for more info.

Does anyone have any ideas about how we could compile a list of such aggrieved owners of electronically totaled ED's and pursue a class-action lawsuit? These pack brickings certainly to levels of egregiousness far beyond the hot-weather capacity loss issue in early-model Nissan LEAF's and LEAF owners successfully won a class action lawsuit against Nissan.
So do the later models have the same “bricking” issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
I am sorry to say, my smart is gone.
So are my EV car days for a while, even after spending $200 at dealer errors came back in 25 miles.
I need to rely on my car so I traded my smart in. If any EV people need a 120v 220V charger I and willing to sell one cheap. I made an adapter to swap voltage and a 6 gauge wire extention to use on 220 or 120
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top