Smart Car of America Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
Yes, your best option is to cancel the sale. If you can't, and have the space and DIY skills, you can attempt a de-bricking using the various information and small garage-level businesses that provide BMS reprogramming and parts that can be found in this forum.

Temperatures below freezing are no problem.

Did the 12V battery die?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
I bought A 2015 from a used car lot, defective with the same issue, It is fixable, but the battery need to be removed to get to the BMS and current sensor. The German site EQpassion.de has also good info on the battery removal. Look at "EV battery replacement" here in the Forum there is good information in it. So far so good my Smart still drives. Bill Kichman can reprogram the BMS if it does not reset. He is in Pensylvania. I had to send my BMS to Lithuania and i also needed a current sensor from Germany. I dont know if they figured out on how to reprogram the BMS without removing it from the battery. Or having an alternative to the current sensor. Also messing with the battery is dangerous. There is no Off Switch. max 400VDC. The battery weight is about 400lbs
We have never gotten any posts here about a Smart ED being successfully unbricked and the costs and labor involved. So please, if you can, start a new discussion with your description of how you got your Smart back running.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
Check "EV battery replacement" post there is lots of info. I bought the car and the dealer said he bought a Charging cable from Ebay and it did not charge the car. I looked at EQpassion for info. I dropped the Traction battery and removed the 12Volt battery. Both where dead. 12 Volt battery needed a healthy charge and the 3 banks in the traction battery where down at 10 Volts. I made a charger out of an adjustable transformer, rectifier capacitors and some gauges. I charged the traction battery carefully with low current to 3.2 volt a cell. it took week or more charging let it settle checking the individual cells . Now the gauge in the car showed a charge but it did not drive. I bought an AUTEL MaxiDiag MD806 Pro OBD2 reader from Amazon and it reads the Smart car electrical error code and cell voltages. I put the error code here in the forum and on the EQpasssion forum. I had the dreaded P15081C bricked battery code. I paid $500 on EQpassion for reprogramming and an extra $50 so the code does not come back. Moritz told me where to send the BMS. Then I bought for another $500 the current sensor. As I had been told, when the 12 volt battery goes low, a DC/DC converter in the BMS cannot regulate the output voltage and destroys the current sensor. Moritz had some in Germany and sold me one. After I got everything back together the car drove again. But still displayed the error on the dash. I bought an OPENPORT 2.0 OBD2 to USB and Jochen logged into my laptop and deleted the error on my dash. Now the car runs. It is my weekend car. When it was fixed in spring it showed 70 miles on a charge, now I am down to 40miles per charge. I think it the cold weather and my driving style. I have a friend she live 25 miles away and I make it back with 20% left on the charge. I am happy with the car.
What was the total cost - including the OBD readers?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
As N9QQD wrote:
In meantime there are also options in US to fix the BMS ECU in US by Bill which takes out the high costs for transportation and tax to Europe by Bill.
He also did go the long way. If you use the right cheap 120V or 400V powersupply for a few bucks, i supported several approaches to recharge the HV battery and fix the issues within 2-3 days to bring back the car to road again.

In meantime much more knowledge how to bring back the car and the several rootcauses for the issues are known.

So i wonder on Yinzer's comment he never read about finally fixed cars. Even here in the forum several successful approaches where posted and described in details.

If you use google or deepl translation you maybe follow also the German Goingelectric forum and special the Smart ED3 part. There i also wrote expensivly about how to do it.
Until N9QQD's post here, nobody has provided a descriptive case study of going through the process and the result including materials and costs. It has all jsut been "you can do this, you do can that."
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top