[N9QQD]

I bought A 2015 from a used car lot, defective with the same issue, It is fixable, but the battery need to be removed to get to the BMS and current sensor. The German site EQpassion.de has also good info on the battery removal. Look at "EV battery replacement" here in the Forum there is good information in it. So far so good my Smart still drives. Bill Kichman can reprogram the BMS if it does not reset. He is in Pensylvania. I had to send my BMS to Lithuania and i also needed a current sensor from Germany. I dont know if they figured out on how to reprogram the BMS without removing it from the battery. Or having an alternative to the current sensor. Also messing with the battery is dangerous. There is no Off Switch. max 400VDC. The battery weight is about 400lbs

 

[N9QQD]

Check "EV battery replacement" post there is lots of info. I bought the car and the dealer said he bought a Charging cable from Ebay and it did not charge the car. I looked at EQpassion for info. I dropped the Traction battery and removed the 12Volt battery. Both where dead. 12 Volt battery needed a healthy charge and the 3 banks in the traction battery where down at 10 Volts. I made a charger out of an adjustable transformer, rectifier capacitors and some gauges. I charged the traction battery carefully with low current to 3.2 volt a cell. it took week or more charging let it settle checking the individual cells . Now the gauge in the car showed a charge but it did not drive. I bought an AUTEL MaxiDiag MD806 Pro OBD2 reader from Amazon and it reads the Smart car electrical error code and cell voltages. I put the error code here in the forum and on the EQpasssion forum. I had the dreaded P15081C bricked battery code. I paid $500 on EQpassion for reprogramming and an extra $50 so the code does not come back. Moritz told me where to send the BMS. Then I bought for another $500 the current sensor. As I had been told, when the 12 volt battery goes low, a DC/DC converter in the BMS cannot regulate the output voltage and destroys the current sensor. Moritz had some in Germany and sold me one. After I got everything back together the car drove again. But still displayed the error on the dash. I bought an OPENPORT 2.0 OBD2 to USB and Jochen logged into my laptop and deleted the error on my dash. Now the car runs. It is my weekend car. When it was fixed in spring it showed 70 miles on a charge, now I am down to 40miles per charge. I think it the cold weather and my driving style. I have a friend she live 25 miles away and I make it back with 20% left on the charge. I am happy with the car.

 

[N9QQD]

Just to avoid 12 Volt issues again the 12 Volt battery is on a 4 amp charger from Harbor freight when I am not using the car.

 

[N9QQD]

Hi, the total cost for me was less the if I would have bought a running car. BMS repair was $550 plus $80 for shipping via US Postal service. (no tracking outside the US,it got me worried after 2 weeks) Moritz found it and send me the return tracking #. It tracked only in Europe. Another Week of worry (LOL). FEDEX wanted $280 and DHL was a no go. The Autel Scanner was $275. The current sensor was $500.and the open port was $50 I think i am lucky that traction battery recovered and all cells looked healthy, holding the voltage. The charger I build was made from electrical junk I collected, there was no cost to me. As you may see from my username, it is my Hamradio call sign. I like too tinker with electrical stuff. This car just was another challange for me. Total cost for me was about $1425 for the repair. The Autel Scanner works also on my VW. But without Jochen's knowledge and help and the info on EQpassion and the part from there, I may not have gotten the car to work.

 

[N9QQD]

Just checked at EQ and the price are up. $300 more then what I paid. Good that there are people here and in Canada that can reflash the BMS too.