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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I tried to replace the front brake pads. Got everything out but i had order wrong brake pads. so I put the old ones back. Everything is back in place. But the car now won't start. by far worse car I've ever had.
 

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Bizarre. Eelectric or gas?

I can’t speak for the electric drive, but the gas smart braking systems are virtually identical to other cars. There’s virtually nothing in the brake system that would prevent the car from starting during a normal hardware change.

That being said, you may want to double check to make sure no wires are pinched or short circuited, that nothing fell into the engine compartment or air intake system that would hinder performance, and nothing got clogged i the exhaust that would cause excessive exhaust pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bizarre. Eelectric or gas?

I can’t speak for the electric drive, but the gas smart braking systems are virtually identical to other cars. There’s virtually nothing in the brake system that would prevent the car from starting during a normal hardware change.

That being said, you may want to double check to make sure no wires are pinched or short circuited, that nothing fell into the engine compartment or air intake system that would hinder performance, and nothing got clogged i the exhaust that would cause excessive exhaust pressure.
this one is all gas. one thing i forgot to mention is I opened the cap for the brake fluid. something I alway did out of habit because I find this help makes it easier when clamping the brake caliper back some more. Will try the car again tomorrow.
 

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Did the battery die?

Does it crank/turn over?

Opening the brake fluid reservoir is not necessary as it is not sealed as far as I know. But that would at worst just allow more moisture into the fluid than necessary. Siphoning some fluid out may be necessary if some was added during the lifespan of the pads. As far as I know brake fluid should be changed every 2 years as an FYI.



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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did the battery die?

Does it crank/turn over?

Opening the brake fluid reservoir is not necessary as it is not sealed as far as I know. But that would at worst just allow more moisture into the fluid than necessary. Siphoning some fluid out may be necessary if some was added during the lifespan of the pads. As far as I know brake fluid should be changed every 2 years as an FYI.



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thank you for the feedback!

It cranks but doesnt start. there was a message stating brake force but that no longer pops up. a Transmission error did flash quickly. must be coincidence that it happened after brakes.

also, I'm due for oil change in next 15 days
 

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well, if I did screw it up, I want to know what will cause it. since you seem to be all knowing, what will cause this?
…you provided no information…year…model…power up with key on…will it turn over or just click…will it turn over but no combustion…you know…little things like that…it makes troubleshooting a lot easier other than blaming the car…

jetfuel…btdtft…
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
…you provided no information…year…model…power up with key on…will it turn over or just click…will it turn over but no combustion…you know…little things like that…it makes troubleshooting a lot easier other than blaming the car…

jetfuel…btdtft…
I just fail to see why taking off brake pads will cause this. reason why I blame car? this isn't the first issue. but it is my fault for purchasing a car without more research.
 

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I just fail to see why taking off brake pads will cause this. reason why I blame car? this isn't the first issue. but it is my fault for purchasing a car without more research.
So far, owners of the 453 gen smart haven’t reported much in the way of issues - serious or otherwise.
 

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So far, owners of the 453 gen smart haven’t reported much in the way of issues - serious or otherwise.
Exactly. My 2016 ForTwo Prime has like 107,000 miles on it, and outside of routine brake, oil, and tire changes.... nothing has ever mechanically went wrong with it (which i shouldn't say... don't want to jynx it...)

Only thing i really NEEDED to take it to the dealer for in the last nearly 6 years was when a stone or piece of cement or something managed to get kicked up and lodged into one of the serpentine belt pulleys. Ripped the belt in half. Still drove around with it like that for I don't know how long, and then made the hour long drive to said dealer. But yeah.

Smartcarheadaches, i'd love to hear some of the other issues you've had that, with only 6 posts (which are all in this thread), make it the worst car you've ever had. Believe me, i've had FAR worse. An '87 VW Golf that just up and died out of nowhere. No explosive engine death, no discernible problems... would crank, just never started again. '99 Durango with an e-brake cable that would always stick, causing it to eat through rear brakes every month or so. Hell, even my 2013 Dart that i had in between my previous 2009 Smart ForTwo and my current one. That car had all sorts of issues, from oil leaking from the oil separator that was on TOP of the valve cover, causing smoke from burning oil to occasionally pour through the climate vents INSIDE the car when braking under certain circumstances, to a major water leak on the underside of the car that required the entire interior to be ripped out so that it could be dried, to the slave cylinder on the clutch KNOWN to fail yet dealerships reluctant to fix when I told them it was showing signs of it. The ONLY cars i've owned that have been 100% reliable to get me from point A to B have been Smart's.
 

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everything sounds unrelated , could be a simple thing , electric , fuel and air , should attempt to start . If one is missing , it won’t .
 

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So I tried to replace the front brake pads. Got everything out but i had order wrong brake pads. so I put the old ones back. Everything is back in place. But the car now won't start. by far worse car I've ever had.
There is absolutely nothing about replacing your hydraulic brakes which would prohibit anything electrical from starting the car. Literally nothing.

A fascinating consideration though; did you jack the car up? A jack at one corner? Two jacks? Ramps? Front / Rear? See to it that the battery didn't shift, come loose, or pull something - aftermarket or otherwise. Make sure both connections are secure.

You mention the car cranks but will not start. Will it crank forever if you held the key to the start position, or does it try two or three times and fizzle out to dead again. Any interior lights flickering or fading when trying to start that signal a weak battery? How old is the car? What's the mileage? Is the battery original?

I genuinely want to see your Smart back on the road, and we're sorry to hear you're having trouble with it, but from my keyboard and VERY limited info from you, all I can deduce is that something happened somehow. (If you truly dislike the car that much and find yourself in the NorthEast, maybe we can work out a deal.)

@jetfuel is one of the top 5 members on this forum, and has been since the cars originally came here. He's spot on; you come to a Smart car forum asking for help and start off with posts lambasting the car. Try getting a 5 course meal from a new restaurant by telling the cook he sucks. :whistle:
 
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