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Discussion Starter #1
Hello! Checking in here for the first time in a long while. We just crossed the 25k mile threshold.



We got our ED on the road at the beginning of June, 2017, with ten miles on the odometer. This last 12 months, we've been driving it more than ever, and especially since finally getting a level 2 charger installed last November. We lived with the level 1 charging for over two years and it worked fine but the faster charging has really freed us up to drive it almost all the time.

I've noticed that the range is better with level 2 charging. Previously, I've seen that the battery seems to be able to store more energy when it is more fully discharged on a regular basis and then charged up to full. Now, I also notice a slight increase in energy content with the faster charging speeds. I've been able to exceed 100 miles on a charge four or five times, with a max of 106 miles with a couple of percent SOC remaining.

I've also noticed over the past year that if we drive very sedately for a charge or two, that the first time we floor the throttle the acceleration is not as strong as subsequent times. Along with this is that if we rapidly discharge the battery by flooring it a couple of times before charging it up from a low level, the battery also seems to store a bit more energy.

I haven't done any modifications in the past year. All that has been done is the addition of 20 mm spacers behind the OEM front wheels, and a correct wheel alignment with 0.05 degrees toe-in at each front wheel, along with loosening and retightening of all bolts on the front to gain maximum negative camber, about -0.5 degrees. We are still on our original Kumho Solus tires despite driving it very hard on occasion (once on an autocross track for six runs). The fronts still have another 5000 miles on them and the rears are just about down to the wear bars, with the primary wear being on the outer shoulders up front and the inner shoulders on the rear.

I've resisted making any handling changes, and have learned to manage the understeer better. I did buy two rear wheels and tried them both with and without the spacers. While total front end grip went up, the understeer was actually a bit worse, and transitional handling and range suffered. So, I have two rear wheels for sale!

I just ran a battery report. From past experience, the cold temperatures we now have reduce capacity by about five percent over what I will see in the summer, when the "AS/10" values are all approaching or over 19000. Even now, capacity is calculated to be 50.4 Ah, and I'd expect right between 52.5 and 53 Ah around July. So we basically have zero degradation despite the car sitting for two years, and then having run 25k miles.

Hope everyone is well and surviving the Covid-19 pandemic. I'll be sure to check back in occasionally. Following is the battery report.


-----------------------------------------
--- ED Battery Management Diagnostics ---
--- v1.0.4 ---
-----------------------------------------

Connect to OBD port - Waiting for CAN-Bus
...........CONNECTED
-----------------------------------------
........Reading data....................OK
-----------------------------------------
Battery VIN: WMEEJ9AAXFK834189
Time [hh:mm]: 15:25, ODO : 40634 km
-----------------------------------------
Battery Status : OK

Battery Production [Y/M/D]: 2014/10/27
Battery-FAT date [Y/M/D]: 2014/10/27
Rev.[Y/WK/PL] HW:2014/7/0, SW:2014/18/0
-----------------------------------------
SOC : 100.0 %, realSOC: 98.6 %
HV : 389.0 V, -1.00 A, -0.39 kW
LV : 13.3 V
-----------------------------------------
CV mean : 4171 mV, dV = 25 mV
CV min : 4148 mV
CV max : 4173 mV
OCVtimer: 4109 s
-----------------------------------------
Last measurement : 0 day(s)
Measurement estimation: 0.833
Actual estimation : 0.825
CAP mean: 18575 As/10, 51.6 Ah
CAP min : 18034 As/10, 50.1 Ah
CAP max : 18390 As/10, 51.1 Ah
-----------------------------------------
HV contactor state ON, low current: 3 s
Cycles left : 293019
of max. cycles: 300000
DC isolation : 65534 kOhm, OK
-----------------------------------------
Temperatures Battery-Unit /degC:
module 1: 16.9, 17.2, 17.1
module 2: 16.9, 17.9, 17.1
module 3: 16.4, 17.0, 16.1
mean : 17.0, min : 16.1, max : 17.9
coolant : 15.1
-----------------------------------------
# ;mV ;As/10
01;4171;18375
02;4172;18375
03;4171;18347
04;4172;18263
05;4172;18432
06;4171;18432
07;4173;18263
08;4171;18319
09;4171;18263
10;4147;18375
11;4172;18319
12;4172;18319
13;4171;18263
14;4173;18263
15;4172;18291
16;4173;18263
17;4173;18432
18;4170;18432
19;4173;18263
20;4171;18403
21;4172;18263
22;4173;18432
23;4173;18263
24;4171;18208
25;4173;18375
26;4173;18153
27;4171;18375
28;4172;18319
29;4173;18263
30;4173;18263
31;4173;18319
32;4173;18375
33;4173;18375
34;4173;18375
35;4173;18432
36;4172;18432
37;4171;18403
38;4170;18460
39;4169;18432
40;4172;18375
41;4170;18403
42;4172;18375
43;4171;18432
44;4172;18375
45;4171;18403
46;4172;18375
47;4172;18403
48;4173;18489
49;4172;18375
50;4172;18375
51;4173;18375
52;4172;18375
53;4170;18460
54;4171;18319
55;4172;18319
56;4171;18432
57;4171;18263
58;4170;18432
59;4171;18347
60;4170;18375
61;4171;18403
62;4170;18319
63;4170;18432
64;4171;18432
65;4171;18375
66;4171;18375
67;4172;18403
68;4171;18403
69;4172;18375
70;4172;18319
71;4172;18319
72;4171;18403
73;4171;18347
74;4172;18460
75;4173;18432
76;4173;18375
77;4173;18375
78;4171;18375
79;4173;18432
80;4173;18432
81;4172;18375
82;4172;18432
83;4171;18319
84;4168;18489
85;4172;18432
86;4174;18432
87;4172;18375
88;4173;18432
89;4173;18375
90;4171;18319
91;4171;18347
92;4171;18403
93;4172;18263
-----------------------------------------
Individual Cell Statistics:
-----------------------------------------
CV mean : 4171 mV, dV= 27 mV, s= 2.77 mV
CV min : 4147 mV, # 10
CV max : 4174 mV, # 86
-----------------------------------------
CAP mean: 18366 As/10, 51.0 Ah
CAP min : 18153 As/10, 50.4 Ah, # 26
CAP max : 18489 As/10, 51.4 Ah, # 48
-----------------------------------------
Voltage Distribution (dV= 27 mV):
------------------------------>---[=|]-
4147 00 > [4171; 4172; 4173] < 00 4174
min [p25; median; p75] max
-----------------------------------------
Reading data....OK
-----------------------------------------
Status OBL Charger-Unit:
User selected : 16 A
Cable maximum : 204 A
AC L1: 244.1 V, 0.6 A
DC HV: 386.5 V, 0.0 A
DC LV: 14.5 V
-----------------------------------------
Temperatures Charger-Unit /degC:
Reported : 12
Cooling plate : 12
Inlet socket : NA
-----------------------------------------
Reading data.OK
-----------------------------------------
Status Cooling- and Subsystems:
Temperature : 12.4 degC
Cooling fan : 0.0 %
Cooling pump : 49.0 %, 13 degC
: 14.2 V, 0.6 A
OTR:
Cooling fan : 12 h
Cooling pump : 5200 h
Battery heater: 0 h, OFF
Vaccum pump : 28.930 h
Pressure 1, 2 : -720 mbar, -727 mbar
-----------------------------------------


-----------------------------------------
Battery VIN: WMEEJ9AAXFK834189
Time [hh:mm]: 15:25, ODO : 40634 km
-----------------------------------------
SOC : 100.0 %, realSOC: 98.6 %
HV : 389.0 V, -1.00 A, -0.39 kW
LV : 13.3 V
-----------------------------------------
ENTER command... (? for help)
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Worn tires yield longer range as they are less "sticky". When you put new tires on, your range will decrease slightly overall.

Personally I'd like to see what a low rolling resistance tire would do for range improvement - not using them loses 5 - 10 mpg on a Gen 1 Honda Insight.
 

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Tires also lose up to about 2% of their rolling circumference from brand new to worn and that affects the odometer, and hysteresis losses are much greater when new as well. So I am expecting probably a 5-7% decrease in range with new tires, which will probably be the Quatrac5's in OEM sizes. As the tires have age hardened, I've gradually decreased the tire pressures I run to keep the same level of impact harshness. I was running 33.5/35 at one time and am now down to 32/34 PSI so the ability to run higher pressures may get me some of that 5-7% back.

I forgot to mention that I once had to brake hard in the wet to avoid an accident in front of me and was pretty appalled at the general lack of grip. There's way too much front brake bias when you jam on the brakes. That sudden lurch causes the regen to shut off, and then the rear brakes are basically doing nothing. I think the system was designed to lock the fronts before the rears with the regen running at full capacity. I also previously changed the front brake pads to a ceramic compound which should have lessened the front brake bias but it still wasn't enough.

After that event, I went and did a number of 70-0 stops and found that if I gradually applied braking over about the first half second to keep regen going at full capability, the stops were shorter than just jamming on the brakes and losing regen. As far as I can see, braking performance is the primary compelling reason to run larger tires on the front.

By the way, the ceramic pads are wonderful. No noise at any time, and basically zero dust. The front wheels are no dirtier than the rears, and after two months of no washing, still look pretty clean. The ED can't generate enough speed to exceed the temperature capability of the ceramic pads, so in my mind it's a win-win.
 
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