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Discussion Starter #1
bulb is new and has continuity, socket tests good. no power at end of wire harness. i looked for the correct fuse and nothing was labeled. therefore i assume it is on the same fuse as the brakes and they light up ok,

any ideas gentlemen
 

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maybe that's why it was sold with 30k on it but then again i worked in the rv industry for 15 years and people would bring their rv in that hadn't been used in years and needed thousands of dollars of repairs. point in case stuff is built to be used not sit around.

but that's why i come to you.....more heads are better than one
 

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On my older smart, the upper brake light always got water in it. Even after I tried to reseal it a couple of times so I just quit worrying about it.
 

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bulb is new and has continuity, socket tests good. no power at end of wire harness. i looked for the correct fuse and nothing was labeled. therefore i assume it is on the same fuse as the brakes and they light up ok,

any ideas gentlemen
I got an idea. I got an idea you should subscribe to some service information, such as from ALLDATAdiy.com for your car and learn how things work. The service info also has wiring diagrams which will show the power for the center brake lamp comes from the brake lamp switch, unlike the power for the left and right brake lamps.

I also got an idea you should attempt to search first because pretty much everything you have asked about in your 539 questions has been asked and answered before. Not complaining, just making an observation.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
thanks for the input

no water in mine and even if there was i should still have voltage at the end of the harness to the light


gee, didn't know i posted 539 questions so far...wow. as to alldata i am familiar with it (was a service mgr for 15 years). problem is i am on social security (lost my sizable pension in 911) so dollars are pretty tight that's why i purchased a gas mizer. i do search and when i can't find an answer that is appropriate to my problem then i ask the wisdom from the many.


oh, and if it were the brake lamp switch it would cause other problems too....shifting or not shifting problems, dash lite notification, not being able to start etc. that's why i asked for ideas. i read all 12 pages and no one had a problem like mine
 

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thanks for the input

no water in mine and even if there was i should still have voltage at the end of the harness to the light


gee, didn't know i posted 539 questions so far...wow. as to alldata i am familiar with it (was a service mgr for 15 years). problem is i am on social security (lost my sizable pension in 911) so dollars are pretty tight that's why i purchased a gas mizer. i do search and when i can't find an answer that is appropriate to my problem then i ask the wisdom from the many.


oh, and if it were the brake lamp switch it would cause other problems too....shifting or not shifting problems, dash lite notification, not being able to start etc. that's why i asked for ideas. i read all 12 pages and no one had a problem like mine
You are not going to get too far without some kind of service info. The ALLDATAdiy.com subscription is $27 a year for one vehicle with each additional vehicle $17. If you can't afford $27 to be able to repair your car then I don't see how you can afford to run the car. But then I don't know everything. Well, I know everything but I can not remember everything. Same thing.

The power for the center brake lamp either comes from fuse 24 or fuse R2, a 7.5 amp fuse. Depends on which diagram you believe. The diagram that says fuse 24 looks wrong to me because it has separate stop and turn lamps, which is not consistent with USA model smarts. So, fuse R2 then. Maybe. Owner's manual should have illustrations of the fuses and fuse assignment list. The left and right stop lamps do not use the same fuse as the center stop lamp.

Power goes from the fuse to the stop lamp switch, then to a connector behind the center dash/console area where it splits off to the turn signal relays, the ESP/ABS control unit and the center stop lamp. The power wire to the center stop lamp should be BLK/RED and the ground wire is BRN, which is grounded in the left rear of the trunk area. Check for power and ground both at the socket when the brake is applied. It is not out of the realm of possibility to have a broken wire between the harness in the left rear of the trunk and the center stop lamp where the wiring goes from the body to the glass.

If you have no power at the center stop lamp socket you can pull off the left rear interior panel and find the BLK/RED wire in the harness coming from the front of the car. If you have power there then the open circuit is between there and the socket. If not, the fault is between the stop lamp switch and the left rear of the car.
 

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If the high mount brake light fuse is bad: I had that issue and the car would not be drivable - when stepping on the brake pedal the ESP warning light would activate and the gear shift lever was locked in Park.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
stevenjb i don't have any of those symptoms and the manuql does not show a third brake lite fuse. normally that lite runs off the brake lite circuit on most cars
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks rustedwrench. i will pull both fuses and test them. yes the wire colors to the light are correct so i'll test the ground for continuity and the blk/red for power.

not knowing where the relays and esp/abs control unit are let alone what they look like to test could be a nightmare. if no power but ground is good what about splicing into one of the brake lights to power that small bulb or would a sensor/control unit/computer sense that and cause another problem.

from what i have read in those 12 pages of threads the brake switch must be working because of the other problems it has caused folks when it wasn't

i haven't checked yet but is there not a chilton or haynes manual out yet?
 

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Mercedes won't release the information for Chiltons or Haynes, or any other manual company. there have been some discs on Ebay, but they are pirated information from Evilution and I refuse to pay money to anyone who tries to cash in on someone else's work. Alldata had some good information when I joined them quite a few years back, not sure if it is better or worse now. Personally I would rather have a hard manual than something on the computer, but I am kind of old school..
 

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As Rustedwrench stated - R2 is for the brake lights. R2 is the upper fuse in the holders on the left side of the SAM. If that is good and all brake lights are not working, then you might want to replace the brake light switch connected to the pedal - I contacted Benz about the switch last year and they had the switch kit (switch and cover) for around $50.

You tested the connector on the wires to the high mounted brake light - did you remove some insulation on the wires and test there? Could be a dirty or bad connector.
 

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Mercedes won't release the information for Chiltons or Haynes, or any other manual company. there have been some discs on Ebay, but they are pirated information from Evilution and I refuse to pay money to anyone who tries to cash in on someone else's work. Alldata had some good information when I joined them quite a few years back, not sure if it is better or worse now. Personally I would rather have a hard manual than something on the computer, but I am kind of old school..


I prefer paper too, but recently when I paid to subscribe to smarttekinfo.com and entered my VIN and searched all documents for my car, it came up with 1204. That's not number of pages, that's number of documents! Sometimes my wife gets a little irritated with the big fat volumes I bought from Helm for the two GM vehicles in the house, or the Toyota or Lexus ones that I have that I bought from Toyota. At least Bentley has something for the E90 BMW in the house. Eventually Mercedes, BMW, and a lot others started giving up on paper and putting it on the web or computer format....


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