Smart Car of America Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone -

My 2009 Passion has been doing a little jolt when shifting up from a stop to 1st and 2nd which the transmission shop said would be the clutch. There are no codes, though, so not the clutch actuator motor probably. I've also had this like rumble right under the driver's side floor, right where your left foot would be sitting there - the dealership said that replacing the clutch would probably sort that out, too, but I was wondering if anyone else had experience with that or some ideas?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
979 Posts
Unplugging the subwoofer under the driver's seat should stop the rumblings.
I have posted pictures of what to unplug. Check out the post...
How a malfunctioning subwoofer made my car undrivable.
Sorry I haven't a clue about your shifting problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
It could be the clutch, could be other things too, might just need the actuator adjusted; hard to know without seeing and even then there's some discovery. No codes does mostly rule out a lot of other issues at least.

I recently replaced the clutch in my 2010 while replacing the motor (still putting it all back together); the clutch had 137k miles and was close to tolerance. You can get a new Sachs clutch, fork, and bearing for under $400, but there's a lot of labor involved. Depending on the condition of the car it might buy a few more years of service if you can get it done for a reasonable price, always a gamble. Guessing, I would presume around $1000-2000, depending on the shop.

If you decide it's not worth fixing or keeping, please consider selling it here. It's a bit far for me to reasonably consider getting myself (plus I might get hurt if I bring another Smart home), but I know there are others who enjoy working on them or who might be willing to offer more than the scrapyard in order to get spare parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
It could be the clutch, could be other things too, might just need the actuator adjusted; hard to know without seeing and even then there's some discovery. No codes does mostly rule out a lot of other issues at least.

I recently replaced the clutch in my 2010 while replacing the motor (still putting it all back together); the clutch had 137k miles and was close to tolerance. You can get a new Sachs clutch, fork, and bearing for under $400, but there's a lot of labor involved. Depending on the condition of the car it might buy a few more years of service if you can get it done for a reasonable price, always a gamble. Guessing, I would presume around $1000-2000, depending on the shop.

If you decide it's not worth fixing or keeping, please consider selling it here. It's a bit far for me to reasonably consider getting myself (plus I might get hurt if I bring another Smart home), but I know there are others who enjoy working on them or who might be willing to offer more than the scrapyard in order to get spare parts.
Thanks for that info! I really don't want to get rid of it so I'm chucking the money at it while also praying that something else big doesn't go and leave me looking like a dingus for replacing the clutch. I'm right at 130,000 miles so at least that seems consistent with your experience. But also I'll definitely come back here if we do wind up parting ways eventually - I'd much rather it went to a good home than to scrap!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Thanks for that info! I really don't want to get rid of it so I'm chucking the money at it while also praying that something else big doesn't go and leave me looking like a dingus for replacing the clutch. I'm right at 130,000 miles so at least that seems consistent with your experience. But also I'll definitely come back here if we do wind up parting ways eventually - I'd much rather it went to a good home than to scrap!
I just threw about $1200 at a "junk" 2010 so I understand the reasoning. If you have a reasonable expectation that the repairs will fix it and allow it to operate long enough to recoup the expense it can be a risk worth taking. I certainly wasn't encouraging scrapping it, just I cry every time I hear of one going to the scrapper; especially now that we're orphans.

Do keep us posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I just threw about $1200 at a "junk" 2010 so I understand the reasoning. If you have a reasonable expectation that the repairs will fix it and allow it to operate long enough to recoup the expense it can be a risk worth taking. I certainly wasn't encouraging scrapping it, just I cry every time I hear of one going to the scrapper; especially now that we're orphans.

Do keep us posted!
Got the clutch replaced and we're still shifting rough so the dealer has recommended to do the actuator motor now. Which will be another $1000. I don't know if I should bother on an 11 year old car. I saw you had some posts on the same thing - do you have any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,002 Posts
Actuators are relatively easy to install and much, much lesser than a thousand clams used. Ramp the rear, disconnect neg terminal and actuator cable, unscrew the 3 bolts (mark their positions on the car first), replace with newer actuator, cables back on, Done. But is the actuator the problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Got the clutch replaced and we're still shifting rough so the dealer has recommended to do the actuator motor now. Which will be another $1000. I don't know if I should bother on an 11 year old car. I saw you had some posts on the same thing - do you have any suggestions?
If they're going at it with the parts cannon and throwing parts at it until it stops then they have no idea what's actually wrong and that's not a vote of confidence in the dealer and their mechanics; they're supposed to be the experts, they have acces to all the latest information, diagnostics, and support for MB. I would be pretty mad if I had spent that much money for no resolution other than "give us some more money and we'll randomly replace other things too". Makes me wonder if they even checked the old clutch to see if it was within tolerances.

I think your best bet if you decide to persue it would be either a different dealer or an independent who's got some experience with Smarts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Actuators are relatively easy to install and much, much lesser than a thousand clams used. Ramp the rear, disconnect neg terminal and actuator cable, unscrew the 3 bolts (mark their positions on the car first), replace with newer actuator, cables back on, Done. But is the actuator the problem?
The dealership said the clutch/clutch actuator motor and then I took it to another transmission place that had done a Smart transmission about a month ago who also said clutch (and actually probably not the motor because there wasn't a code for it). So now that replacing the clutch hasn't solved the issue, the Mercedes dealership (which formally had a Smart dealership attached) said it was time to replace the actuator motor. I had shifting issues and everyone came back with clutch/clutch motor so that's all I know...?

I actually wound up calling my old mechanic a bit ago to see if they'd give it another look and give me an estimate and they've always been extremely reasonable in their pricing and very transparent in what's going on so I'm hoping they'll come back with better news. Is there anything else I should suggest they take a look at that could be related to the rough shifting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
Motor mounts too. It's entirely possible that various clunks, thunks, bumps and bangs could as easily be a motor mount. I would expect a competent mechanic to know that and they've probably already been looked at, but it never hurts to have them checked.

There are 3 on the Smart, one on the motor (right side), one on the transmission (left side), and one in the center (front).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Motor mounts too. It's entirely possible that various clunks, thunks, bumps and bangs could as easily be a motor mount. I would expect a competent mechanic to know that and they've probably already been looked at, but it never hurts to have them checked.

There are 3 on the Smart, one on the motor (right side), one on the transmission (left side), and one in the center (front).
It's really not any kind of noise - except for that weird growl (generally on start up and just once or twice) from under the drivers side near the door - it's more of a shudder before/after shifting.

I have periodically gotten a rattle but that was diagnosed as the heat shield. Mercedes wanted $700. My old mechanic said they'd stick a new screw in it for free first.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top