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brought it up @nationals to service guy and he said he knew about it. I bought new hoses. (I was one of the lucky ones with rubing hose) the replace ment hose was about 1/8" shorter on engine side I shortened the worn 1 and put it back on to see and it fixed the clearance prob. So if yours is up against the frame an not worn yet just cut a little off the end and it'll be good. The differance is very small. But it is enough to put it up against the frame.And engine shake wears it out.
GK, did you ever get your quick couplers installed ?
 

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GK, did you ever get your quick couplers installed ?
Been working so darn much havn't even looked at it. I think I'm going to break my previous record of 3296 hrs this year the way it's going. Every thing is done except the radiator lines I've got some new ideas just haven't had the time to persue them.
 

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better translation

i know this thread is pretty old but here is a better translation of what that actually says:

1000cc fortwo model 451. please watch your water temperatures when driving
because the coolant pipe can rub against the body of the car underneath
where the radiator pipe goes towards the front of the car. In the design,
it was already known to be a problem so some nylon netting was added but
the engine still moves up and down and will cause the pipe to grind and
break.

Broken coolant pipes will cause the engine coolant to boil away. it is important
to immediately stop driving, otherwise the engine will overheat. If you
have distilled water onboard you can open the hood and on the front passenger side there is a large white colored tank. add some water then you can drive again. This is because the water leaks out slowly and you can get to where you need to go.

for maintenance call (whatever the place is I don't really understand what he is saying here)


To prevent this, raise the rear of the vehicle and add something to reduce
the direct friction on the pipe which causes it to burst.

a picture where the pipe is located.

It is imperative that at your next service you point this inspection out
to your service department and have them document it on your receipt. This
way, if there is a problem with the pipe in the future and it causes engine
damage, you can show that you have proof of the problem. otherwise the dealership might try to say it is your fault and you will be responsible for the costs.
 

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Been working so darn much havn't even looked at it. I think I'm going to break my previous record of 3296 hrs this year the way it's going. Every thing is done except the radiator lines I've got some new ideas just haven't had the time to persue them.

Love the dedication, but don't burn yourself out. Life goes by way to fast. :)
 

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Since the brabus is an 09 , was the hose a different configuration than your 08 passion as someone else suggested ? . Wondering if I should go look at mine or if smart changed the setup on later builds
Oh the whole configuration pictures confused me. I did take a picture of it for my own records, plus I can bring that picture on my phone if I have someone else service the vehicle and show them what to look for. I don't think you can attach pictures here without a link.

My Brabus is one of the first to hit the states. I took delivery in December of 2008, so I'm not sure how much later of a model that it actually is compared to most that were delivered months later.

At any rate, I would recommend checking it at every oil change. It just takes a quick glance to be 100% confident. Doesn't cost anything but a few seconds.
 

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Love the dedication, but don't burn yourself out. Life goes by way to fast. :)
yeah, I averaged (including vacatgionas and holidays) 70 hours a week for the first 2 years over here in Korea! (3460 was the record!) Now it's like a vacation -- just 50 a week. The money is less though...:(
 

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I have a 2009 Brabus (del date 08/2009).
I have 40 K, and got my sears hydraulic jack out, and looked for this problem. I have a friction rub of minor nature, but good clearance, about 1/4th to 3/8ths of an inch. The rub mark isn't fraying the hose, but evidently engine torquing is making it rub some of the time. I'm not worried, but did a little preventive action. I got some vacuum hose, 1/4th outer diameter, 1/8th inner diameter, and cut about a 3 inch piece, and sliced it down the middle with a razor blade, dabbed some clear silicone sealant glue inside the split, cleaned the glue up first , then crawled up under, and slid this small protective hose onto the pinch weld facing the hose. Let the glue dry, and I'm good to go. I will obviously watch it, and thought you all could do this small prevention to stop the sharp edge of the pinch weld from wearing the hose on your cars.
 

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I have a 2009 Brabus (del date 08/2009).
I have 40 K, and got my sears hydraulic jack out, and looked for this problem. I have a friction rub of minor nature, but good clearance, about 1/4th to 3/8ths of an inch. The rub mark isn't fraying the hose, but evidently engine torquing is making it rub some of the time. I'm not worried, but did a little preventive action. I got some vacuum hose, 1/4th outer diameter, 1/8th inner diameter, and cut about a 3 inch piece, and sliced it down the middle with a razor blade, dabbed some clear silicone sealant glue inside the split, cleaned the glue up first , then crawled up under, and slid this small protective hose onto the pinch weld facing the hose. Let the glue dry, and I'm good to go. I will obviously watch it, and thought you all could do this small prevention to stop the sharp edge of the pinch weld from wearing the hose on your cars.

Thanks for the reminder to check this item on my car, a 2009 Passion with 30k miles. Sure enough, my hose was contacting the pinch weld, but fortunately the wear mark on the woven hose covering was minor.

I had some hose and silicone sealant on hand, so I did the same fix as you. Thanks for the idea... just wish my fingers were double-jointed!

~toaster
 

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Oh, I forgot to update this thread. When I was modifying my motor mount, I checked the coolant hose.

Sure enough, smart made a rolling change somewhere down the line. Mine has about an inch of a gap above the rail.
 

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Smart 9
This is good information about the hose wear. However; What can be done to know when the engine is over heating. My 09 smart over heated to the point the engine quit with no indication to the driver. The compression is now less than 90 psi. The engine computer code indicated a partial coolant sensor short. I need to know when the engine is getting hot not after it is so hot that it has destroyed it's self.
 

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The over temp light on the dash is more like the pop up indicator on a turkey. It lets you know your engine is DONE. It is most unfortunate. By the time you see the light, the head gasket is usually toast. The alarm light temperature is so close to the temperature that the head gasket fails, it is almost always too late.
A used engine swap is typically the least expensive route swapped by a non dealer shop.
 

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Smart 9
This is good information about the hose wear. However; What can be done to know when the engine is over heating. My 09 smart over heated to the point the engine quit with no indication to the driver. The compression is now less than 90 psi. The engine computer code indicated a partial coolant sensor short. I need to know when the engine is getting hot not after it is so hot that it has destroyed it's self.
This is the primary reason I installed an UltraGauge.

UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

Jim
 

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Triple ditto on that one. Even under perfect normal operating conditions the engine can reach around 210 F. That gives you only about 30 degrees of error before your engine is toast.

And the temp light is programmed stupidly anyway. It isn't even supposed to come on until the engine has just 10 degrees or so of temp left before it kills itself.
 

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2009 Hose rub update:::

I have a 2009 Brabus (del date 08/2009).
I have 40 K, and got my sears hydraulic jack out, and looked for this problem. I have a friction rub of minor nature, but good clearance, about 1/4th to 3/8ths of an inch. The rub mark isn't fraying the hose, but evidently engine torquing is making it rub some of the time. I'm not worried, but did a little preventive action. I got some vacuum hose, 1/4th outer diameter, 1/8th inner diameter, and cut about a 3 inch piece, and sliced it down the middle with a razor blade, dabbed some clear silicone sealant glue inside the split, cleaned the glue up first , then crawled up under, and slid this small protective hose onto the pinch weld facing the hose. Let the glue dry, and I'm good to go. I will obviously watch it, and thought you all could do this small prevention to stop the sharp edge of the pinch weld from wearing the hose on your cars.

Thought I would UPDATE this with what happened when I told the dealer about this "rub" I had at my 40K service:
They saw it, up there on the rack, and the fix ended up being an engine re-positioning, due to the fact that as the Motor Mounts wear, it drops the engine. Direct from the MB smart tech, as I stood under the car with him. They adjusted the engine backward, and Victory for the hose rub. Cool, huh?
 

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Thought I would UPDATE this with what happened when I told the dealer about this "rub" I had at my 40K service:
They saw it, up there on the rack, and the fix ended up being an engine re-positioning, due to the fact that as the Motor Mounts wear, it drops the engine. Direct from the MB smart tech, as I stood under the car with him. They adjusted the engine backward, and Victory for the hose rub. Cool, huh?
Do you know how the engine was moved back? Looking at the engine mounts, I don't see any forward/backward adjustment. Was it the engine cradle that was moved?

~toaster
 

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My understanding of this issue is that the hose is a tad too long.

The fix was to shorten one end. How much to cut off is still unanswered.

I have the problem too, but mine has been sleeved with another piece of over sized rad hose.

As for the scan gauges, if the sensor only works on or off to light the led, how can they tell temp with out a change of sensor ? A2Jack
 
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