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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #1
I posted in another thread earlier today after I got a CEL and codes 2138 and 2121. Thank you RustedWrench for your good advice.

But, I've since found the real cause and it goes to the A451 CC. There was a strong thunderstorm here early this morning. And my cabrio roof is in dire need of replacement. I haven't noticed much leaking until now though.

Just now I started the car and when I put it in reverse I got almost nothing. Put in it 1st and barely moved the car. Then I noticed my nice blue John H CC indicator LED was flickering, and it dawned on me.

I opened the panel and pulled the device out. It was soaking wet. So wet that water literally POURED out of it. I've brought it inside and am preparing to open the case, hoping that if I let it dry out it will return to function. Maybe, hopefully.

If not, I believe I need a null plug to start the car, right? And I don't have one.

Dayum.
 

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Several people bought those plugs with the CC and would probably lend one to you. Talking with Stephen about how to handle a drowned CC could help. Let us know how it goes. :)
 

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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #3
Can anyone tell me whether or not it is OK to start the car without the device in place?
I haven't yet tried it. So I don't know if it will even start. But I don't want to damage anything by trying.

I've got the case open, sitting in front of a fan. I'll let it dry over night and cross my fingers that it works in the morning.

Thanks for the info jwight. But, this is my only mode of transportation, other than foot. Even if someone was kind enough to let me borrow a plug it would take days at a minimum to get my hands on it. Don't know about contacting Stephen ... I think I heard he's out of smarts now.

So the first question is, is it safe/possible to start the car without the CC module?
 

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I would shake the unit dry, blow it out with compressed air, maybe warm it a little with a hair dryer (not a heat gun) and try it again. If it still doesn't work, I think you will have to transplant all those wires back again, at least for now. Not a fun job, but it will get you back on the road.
 

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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I dried the device out with a fan and the cover off overnight. Just tried it out.

When I place the car in gear, the correct gear shows on the instrument cluster. But pressing the accelerator has zero effect, nada, zilch. Scangauge now indicates stored codes but only displays P0000, which will not clear. CEL is on, and the codes from yesterday are no longer indicated.

So now I'm thinking either the A451 is toast, or water got into something else, maybe even the pedal itself ... although there's no sign of wetness from looking at it. Just some sand from being overdue a good cleaning.

I've got the rear end and windows opened up to allow any drying of the car's interior, watching Wx Radar ... clear so far.
A SCoA member has provided me with Stephen's phone number. I'm kind of afraid to hear the word from him that the device is officially toast and haven't called him yet.

I''m kind of clueless and would appreciate any advice.

IF I can assume the CC is wasted, then I imagine the next step would be to reverse the installation, which I paid a pro to do. So I'm pretty much clueless, and probably tool-less in that department as well. At this point I'm HOPING the CC is the only problem!

I have AAA and there is a local independent place that specializes in MB products where I could have the car towed to. Dayum, dayum, dayum.

He's worked on my car before.


Naturally, it's hot as hell outside too.

------------------
I'm going to wait a while before I have the car towed to see if any of the smart gurus here have any better ideas.
Wish it wasn't Friday.
 

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I posted in another thread earlier today after I got a CEL and codes 2138 and 2121. Thank you RustedWrench for your good advice.

But, I've since found the real cause and it goes to the A451 CC. There was a strong thunderstorm here early this morning. And my cabrio roof is in dire need of replacement. I haven't noticed much leaking until now though.

Just now I started the car and when I put it in reverse I got almost nothing. Put in it 1st and barely moved the car. Then I noticed my nice blue John H CC indicator LED was flickering, and it dawned on me.

I opened the panel and pulled the device out. It was soaking wet. So wet that water literally POURED out of it. I've brought it inside and am preparing to open the case, hoping that if I let it dry out it will return to function. Maybe, hopefully.

If not, I believe I need a null plug to start the car, right? And I don't have one.

Dayum.
Well that would do it. I'm pretty sure the Area451 is not rated for submarine duty.

Some people with submerged mobile phones have had success with sealing them in a baggie full of uncooked rice. The rice absorbs the moisture in the unit. That will not succeed if any of the devices on the circuit board are damaged.

The device basically interrupts the signals from the accelerator pedal going to the ECM for the pedal position. Without the by-pass plug in hand one would need to reverse the wiring installation. That involves reversing the wiring instructions in the installation instructions. If the unit is not to be replaced it would be easier to just cut the wires going to the cc unit connector and splice the proper wires together to restore the original vehicle wiring configuration.
 

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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #7
I'd like to replace it. I've contacted Steven at smartiparts, waiting for a reply. His web site indicates he has parts & pieces. I'm hoping I can send him my damaged unit for repair.

I am really intimidated by the prospect of digging into and splicing all of those wires. I don't even have the installation guide any more. And have I mentioned, I'm color deficient?

It would suck though to go to that measure only to find out there were more problems, maybe caused BY the damaged device. (don't think about that).
 

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I got your email. Yikes, this situation sucks, sorry to hear about it :(

In general, with wet electronics... youre device is toast. Water actually doesn't conduct electricity... it is the minerals in the water that does. And it's the short circuits that happen when those minerals make contact between things that shouldn't where things get (usually permanently) damaged. Ie. drying it out doesn't help because it being wet wasn't the problem. The problem was one or more short circuits. You have a better chance at revival by getting it more wet (sort of) by using 99% alcohol to clean it thoroughly and pure de-ionized water to rinse it. THEN let it dry completely. Still, the damage was probably permanent so that is likely futile effort.

To answer one question: no, you should not start the car with the cruise not in place (unless, of course, you put the wiring back to stock). It will just throw an accelerator code because there is no accelerator at that point.

Now, what actually went wrong? We can't know. The problem could be in one OR MORE of: the cruise box; the accelerator pedal; the car's computer (ECU). Obviously the last possibility is the worst. I don't *think* that's the case because your computer appears to be responding just fine. It is most likely the cruise and that's where I'd start.

If I were you, I'd reverse the wiring. If that puts things back to normal, then you let out a big sigh of relief and decide if you want another cruise box or not. I do have them available @ $217 shipped (that's the box and the harness but no switch). To reverse the wiring you're going to have to get the pins out of the red connector block. That's much easier said than done, but it is certainly possible. You need a pair of stiff and very thin "tools" of some sort. That can be as simple as stiff wire or even a straightened pair of staples. You don't want to snip the wires that go to your original harness. Snipping the cruise harness is no big deal (a new one comes with the replacement kit) but that only gets you half way there so that's really a moot point.

Removing the cruise and reversing the wiring should hopefully get your car running.
 
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