The blower switch is part of the HVAC operating unit in the dash. It is wired directly to the blower resistor. Power for the HVAC operating unit comes from SAM 10A fuse #20 . Power for the blower motor comes from the SAM 25A fuse #4 .
I don't know what year car you have. In any case, I can only supply information when I have time available. I can not teach you how to repair your car in a forum post. If you are going to attempt to repair your own car I suggest you subscribe to the following:
I removed the fan and connected it to a 12v battery and it works fine.
I checked the switch and it has continuity on each of the 4 positions
I checked the #4 25a fuse and it is ok
I removed the fan resistor pack and it shows .001-002 ohms on each pin
anything else to look for??? - I have no blower on any switch fan speed setting.
You can remove the fan switch by removing the stereo face and then removing the 2 screws below the switch. there are 3 connectors on the back of the switch. 1 of them has standard pinch style cable holder. the other two have a lever style holder that swings. also be aware that when you remove the switch it will be attached to a 6" piece of flex cable. This is the cable that changes the vent settings ie. vent, heat, defrost.
This cable has to be put back on the pin that is located to the left of the switch and just a bit lower. You may have to remove the stereo to be able to see the connection location.
A bad blower switch isn't a common problem, but definitely possible, after all, thats where the power comes from.
For Wes, a more common cause of an inoperative blower is poor contact of the motor brushes to the commutator. Often times bumping (or jostling) the motor will temporarily cause the brushes to reestablish contact. That could be why the motor ran after you removed it. You might consider reconnecting the motor and see if it works in the car after disturbing it.
There is a thread in the Technical Stickies regarding blower motor repair, i.e. http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f183/heater-blower-motor-repair-26967/
you could check for power at the connector that goes to the motor. As Jsenka said, it is usually the blower motor or the connector that plugs into the motor that acts up. I twisted the tabs on the motor end of the connector to get a better connection, worked for me.
Just replaced the switch control module in the dash, still no blower (now at: new blower, new control module, and new blower resistor). I have been using the heater and A/C I am just turning them on and even without an active fan, inside heats me up in morning and the A/C cools me off in the the afternoon from the air that naturally pushes through the system. I just wish the blower would blow. I am thinking on taking it to an auto electric shop to have them directly power up the blower from the switch from the control module. It used to all work fine, just stopped one day. Ideas?!?!
Fuse was the first thing I checked as it’s the easiest. I did some research and found the relay that runs the blower within the fuse box is also the relay for the windows and other components. Those all function properly. So that rules out the relay being bad.
So the blower speed control lasted 2 days before burning out. Cheap, defective ... Both, IDK. Sent it back for a refund. So when I removed it I thought why am I even using this thing if I am powering the fan from the lighter power source. I tapped the power directly into the blower positive returned the original ground (blue) and WHAT DO YOU KNOW?!?!? It Powered up the blower, all 4 speed now work like when I first got it. -OMG
Ordered a fan switch and wired it directly to the fan, all is well and I actually have way more control of the blower speeds now. Went from having only 4 original settings to endless speeds.
Bought one of these, wired it directly to the fan, powered it from the splicing into the lighter power lines.
I was in the same boat, tried and replaced everything is seemed. Then decided to attach the positive power from the lighter to there fan positive, I did it just to rule out the fan being bad and it turned right on using the regular fan switch. And the lighter still work fine as well. I just cut the positive wire leading to the fan and tapped into the lighter positive, has been functioning perfectly for a year now. Several members on here have also went that route and have had the same results as I have.
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