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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got an error message about a brake malfunction. The hydraulic brakes no longer work although I can still stop the vehicle with a lot more muscle on the brake pedal. Any idea where the major parts of the ABS system are located? Any ideas on what might have failed?
 

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You will find the master cylinder and ABS Motor assembly under the floor of your Fortwo. You have to remove one of the belly pans underneath to gain access. If I could post pictures I could show you. It is under the driver footwell. Removing the rear belly pan you can see it but I think to do much with it you will probably have to drop the front belly pan. If I remember right you must drop down the rear one to drop the front one because they overlap in the middle. DCO
 

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I got an error message about a brake malfunction. The hydraulic brakes no longer work although I can still stop the vehicle with a lot more muscle on the brake pedal. Any idea where the major parts of the ABS system are located? Any ideas on what might have failed?
Let's start with the Basics that isn't listed in you profile.
What year is you car?
What Model?
Most importantly. Have you or anyone else worked on your car within the last year?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got an error message about a brake malfunction. The hydraulic brakes no longer work although I can still stop the vehicle with a lot more muscle on the brake pedal. Any idea where the major parts of the ABS system are located? Any ideas on what might have failed?
Let's start with the Basics that isn't listed in you profile.
What year is you car?
What Model?
Most importantly. Have you or anyone else worked on your car within the last year?
2013 Passion, no frills. I got the car in June and haven?t worked on it other than a bit of cleaning. It has about 13.5K Miles now, 10.5K when I got it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Rob 22304. Here is a picture of the brake unit you will find above the belly pan if you have a 451. I would assume that a 450 is similar, but don't know that for sure. DCO

https://imgur.com/FXjV05f
Thanks for this. I can take the panels off and do some checking before surrendering it to the dealer. Some folks have noted that they can?t get the car out of park when experiencing this failure but I can still drive the vehicle. It?s just that the brakes are really stiff and there?s an alarm going off.

I assume the car is a 451 since it?s a 2014.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also, I?m leaning more towards something electrical or ABS rather than hydraulic.

Does anyone know how to read out the error codes on these vehicles?
 

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Most error codes can be read at the diagnostics port, Some readers will only show engine codes while the more expensive ones will show all the codes. A special reader is usually needed to display ABS codes. It might be that you would need to use STARR computer which is usually only at a dealership.

I assume you have done the basics and checked the brake fluid level, checked for leaks, and brake pad / rear shoe wear. Sounds like maybe the front brakes are not working or the proportioning valve may be messed up. That is just a guess.

ABS systems can be a bit tricky and could require some knowledge to fix. Might be best to have the dealer take a peek at it. Some dealers will not want you to take the car back if the brakes are not working and might make you sign some sort of release if they don't fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Most error codes can be read at the diagnostics port, Some readers will only show engine codes while the more expensive ones will show all the codes. A special reader is usually needed to display ABS codes. It might be that you would need to use STARR computer which is usually only at a dealership.

I assume you have done the basics and checked the brake fluid level, checked for leaks, and brake pad / rear shoe wear. Sounds like maybe the front brakes are not working or the proportioning valve may be messed up. That is just a guess.

ABS systems can be a bit tricky and could require some knowledge to fix. Might be best to have the dealer take a peek at it. Some dealers will not want you to take the car back if the brakes are not working and might make you sign some sort of release if they don't fix it.
I have a generic code reader, I'll give it a try tonight or tomorrow night and see if I can access the ABS codes. Are there any oddities to getting the codes out of the computer or is it a matter of plugging the scan tool into the port and turning the car to ACC or ON?

Are the ED codes significantly difference (other than drive train differences) from the ICE ones?

I've done brake work before and if it's anything beyond a bad connector or sensor, a pad/shoe replacement, caliper replacement/rebuild, or a fluid leak, I'll take it to the dealer. Swapping out electronics is easy as well as long I'm sure a replacement (usually expensive) will fix the problem.

Failed reluctor rings and failed brake switches appear to be common issues on these cars although I don't think either one of those fits my symptoms. Reports on failed brake switches say that the shifter locks up when the brake switch goes bad although that may be limited to the ICE versions, there's nothing specific to seeing this failure on the EDs. I don't think bad reluctor rings would cause the hydraulic pressure to go away unless the computer shuts down the pump in response but that doesn't make sense to me. My first guess is water in the ABS pump connector or a bad pump.

BTW, it's a 2014 ED Passion. I should still have some time on the 4 year warrantee so maybe I won't have too many out-of-pocket expenses.
 

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If you have warranty left, USE IT!!
You are right on the sensor thing. most of the time you won't be able to shift unless the brake lights are on. (brake light switch)

Generic readers don't usually read ABS codes but it is worth a try. Not much experience with the EV, but I have had a few ICE's apart...
 

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VIN? I can try to check the Delivery Date on EPC. It's close to around the time where early '14s run out of warranty. My '13 was first used in '12 and ran out of warranty in '16, not '17.
 

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Sadly, I checked and mine says 11/09/2012, although my purchase contract notes 10/18/2012. Best call the dealer to verify warranty eligibility.
 

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EPC does not tell you the date the car was first put into service. A VMI will tell you that, but not the EPC.
Delivery date to the dealer is totally different from delivery date to the first customer. MY 2014 cabriolet has a warranty start date of May, 25, 2017.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 12,750 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 2,100 miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Feedback from the dealer - the vacuum pump/relay need to be replaced ($550 for parts) due to a leak and the control board ($380 for parts) isn't waking the pump up. Both will be replaced under warranty. I should have the car back on Monday.
 
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