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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
26-days ago I had my fuel pump replaced.
10-days ago I had my A/C serviced
The car has 100,500 miles on the clock
2008 cabrio

...just giving some background.


Since the fuel pump was replaced, I've noticed a 15% decrease from my historic MPG averages. But, that's not why I'm here.


Today, after driving the car a few hundred miles after the fuel pump was replaced, breakdown/stranded.


Roughly a half-mile before total shutdown, the transmission began to buck at shift points, both in Auto and Manual. It almost stalled at the 2nd to last stop. Finally, at the last traffic light it died and couldn't be restarted. I had to push it off of the road.


I have no CEL, scangauge doesn't register any codes. The battery is good. Oddly, in my haste to evacuate my head unit didn't seem to respond to attempts to lower the volume and I had to cut power to it (likely irrelevant).


Here's what has crossed my mind while waiting by the roadside: Either the clutch or the clutch actuator. Question: In order to remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump, would it be necessary to either remove or reposition the clutch actuator? That is what I'm hoping. Of problems I can think of, that would likely be the cheapest to remedy.


EDIT: The engine doesn't turn over (added symptom to list).

Just thought of something else which may or may not be relevant. Several times in the past week when heading out, the car wouldn't go into reverse. But after shutting down & restarting it did.



Thoughts?


My car is parked over night, with permission, at a convenience store. I have to move it in the morning.
 

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When the fuel tank/fuel pump was removed, they may have disconnected the battery. Have you retrained the transmission?

These smart cars get silly.
 

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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I drove the car for four weeks between the fuel pump and today's breakdown.
But, the engine won't start. Isn't a running engine required to re-train? It was only in the last few minutes of driving that I noticed there was a problem.


Previously, and for quite some time, there have been periods when it seems it would engage quite harshly from a standstill simply by releasing the brake, before gas was even applied. And other periods (which lasted weeks) when this behavior was totally abscent.


I've just got my fingers crossed that it's not the clutch. That expense would probably be too high to handle and I'd sadly have to let the car go.


I will have to have the car towed to a garage tomorrow. I'm hoping to not be clueless when I get there.
 

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I understand what you are saying about letting the car go. My 2012 at 60k miles has developed expensive issues; that once resolved, should there be additional then the car may need to go to a new home.
 

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I bet it's the clutch actuator? Clutch system (actuator) failures have been known to cause no start conditions.

And unless the shop you're taking it to knows how to service it, they'll probably just try to replace it.

I bet if yours were removed, cleaned, lubed, then adjusted manually and through the Star, your car will be back in shape.

That said, I suppose I also wouldn't discount that maybe you got a bad fuel pump. Apparently sometimes they'll fail without throwing a code.

Honestly, I'd start easy. Disconnect the battery, wait 30 minutes, reconnect. Sometimes this resets everything enough to get things working again...at least temporarily.
 

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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #6
... I also wouldn't discount that maybe you got a bad fuel pump. Apparently sometimes they'll fail without throwing a code.

Honestly, I'd start easy. Disconnect the battery, wait 30 minutes, reconnect. Sometimes this resets everything enough to get things working again...at least temporarily.
If it was the fuel pump the engine would at least turn over. I failed to mention, it doesn't. When I turn the key to start position I get the seat belt sound and dash indicator lights as expected. But, nothing from the engine bay.


I will definitely disconnect the battery before towing. Not too hopeful, but worth a try. I would've done that yesterday but didn't have a wrench with me.


I wish someone could answer one question I asked which will determine WHERE I take the car. In order to drop the fuel tank to replace the pump, does the actuator have to be removed or repositioned? I know that the position of the actuator is critical from watching Kermit service it years ago.
 

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According to alldatadiy.com, the fuel tank drops straight down, nothing on the engine/transmission is involved. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update:

$40- Car has been flat bedded to garage specializing in imports, especially MB
$90- Diagnosis will not be done until after 4th of July holiday, 2-days to wait
 

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Something happened to my post, but just in case a moderator does not approve. My W201 would not start after the alternator died. Car drains the battery very quickly before it stalls...
 

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Something happened to my post, but just in case a moderator does not approve. My W201 would not start after the alternator died. Car drains the battery very quickly before it stalls...
Yes I see what you are saying. Easy to verify by jumping the battery and giving it some charge.

Which could lead to a bad (worn) battery.
 

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Something happened to my post, but just in case a moderator does not approve. My W201 would not start after the alternator died. Car drains the battery very quickly before it stalls...
Yours isn't the first. There's whole threads missing. I have notifications of thread quotes that come up blank..no thread.
 

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Something happened to my post, but just in case a moderator does not approve. My W201 would not start after the alternator died. Car drains the battery very quickly before it stalls...
I apologize, it appears the post upset the forum's automatic spam filter. I have removed the auto-moderation and the post is now back up. I'll report to the Admin. :)

Yours isn't the first. There's whole threads missing. I have notifications of thread quotes that come up blank..no thread.
That's weird. May I have some example threads in a PM?

Thank you! :D
 

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Miss Mercedes, thank you! I thought I broke a forum rule. I remember I broke the religous rule and an online fight pretty much broke out once!

Jo, is that TapaTalk? There’s a bug. Check on a computer if you can. I get duplicate posts one being 10 posts earlier, and in the middle are missing the numbers in between....
 

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Sorry I'm late to the discussion, but the clutch actuator would not, even remotely, need to be disconnected for a fuel tank/pump removal.


My Applecrate (09 Passion w/BMS turbo) clutch was behaving as you described, with the harsh engagement. Huronlad used his STAR computer to tweak the actuator and it was much better. Now it will still acts up after hard acceleration "off the line". Sometimes shifting to "P" will restore normal function, other times I have to re-start to cure it.

I'm thinking my actuator may be getting wonky, so I'm keeping an eye out for a replacement.
 

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He's not mine
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Discussion Starter #19
Update, July 5th:
Just talked to the mechanic. The problem is the clutch actuator, as I suspected. He suspects a broken gear. At that time it dawned on me that after the breakdown I wasn't hearing the sound I've come to expect when turning the key to start.

If I authorize repair, it will be around $1,000 all told, diagnostic fee included. That's a lot more money to me than it was when I was fully employed.
He said I could take a day or two to think about it, and I agreed I need to.
The thing is, the alternative is to buy a used car. And that would most likely be more money. Daggnabbit. What's next?
 
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