Smart Car of America Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a tach/clock combo from a fellow in Hawaii. His auction pictures were pretty straightforward and the piece looked really good.
The issue is he didn't pack it very well and the clock part broke off the mount. The part was in a box with just one layer of bubble wrap so it had a lot of room to slide around in there.
I contacted the person but haven't heard back yet. Granted it's only been a day but this really ticks me off! I paid $150 for this and I'm hoping to at least get a few dollars back. I'm going to give him a couple of days to get back to me and I hope he had shipping insurance on it.
I bought some gel type super glue to "tack" it together but I'm thinking some sort of epoxy would work better for a permanent fix.
62005
62006
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,697 Posts
The eBay Buyer Protection exists for this exact purpose. If the seller won't play ball, open up a case. You'll definitely get at least some or all money back. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
Exactly! If you still have the packaging take pics showing how sloppy and poor the packaging was and include those in the email to eBay for your case against the seller. You should get a complete refund. Happened to me once.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The seller is working with me on this deal. I think it can be glued together and will be sturdy enough once in the car.
He agreed to a $50 refund which I requested. If I send it back he would probably just throw it away which doesn't benefit either of us.
Do you think this is a reasonable solution?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
376 Posts
Glad to hear that he's playing it straight with you: good luck!
Please let us know how the repairs and installation proceed...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I've spent the last day and a half gluing this clock piece back together. So far I've only used gel type super glue. It looks ok from the outside part but inside the glue is not sticking too well. It's been coated again and I'll leave it to sit overnight.
The seller has already sent me $50 for my trouble which is all I asked for. Very nice guy to work with.
62010
62011
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In case nobody has seen this yet, the rotating part of the base has a detent style setup to keep it in place once you set it. There's just a little grease in there to lube the "gear" so it's not just plastic rubbing plastic. That lube on mine has hardened and is sticking. I'm going to clean these with IPA and put a small amount of new grease in. The grease is the white stuff in the picture.
62012
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
When you say “grease”, what type of lubricant do you mean? Petroleum based lubricants aren’t always good to use with plastic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
Well I've spent the last day and a half gluing this clock piece back together. So far I've only used gel type super glue. It looks ok from the outside part but inside the glue is not sticking too well. It's been coated again and I'll leave it to sit overnight.
The seller has already sent me $50 for my trouble which is all I asked for. Very nice guy to work with.
View attachment 62010 View attachment 62011
Would epoxy be better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When you say “grease”, what type of lubricant do you mean? Petroleum based lubricants aren’t always good to use with plastic.
I don't know what Mercedes used but my suspicion is they used white lithium grease. It's durable and not much is needed. The plastic is not degraded at all, just the grease has become a thick paste.
I'm going to use a silicone based grease which is thinner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Would epoxy be better.
It would but in this case the area is really tight and there are rotating parts I'm afraid of accidentally sticking. If the glue by itself doesn't hold up, then I'll have to buy some epoxy.
The issue with epoxy is you I hardly ever need it. A mixing tube would be the best bet but would go to waste. Super glue is cheaper and I'm always looking for it for some odd stuff.
For now I'll try it and see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you for the recommendations. After a couple of days of layering on the gel super glue, I believe the break is pretty secure. I put some pressure on it last night and then went about reassembling the gauge. I think it turned out okay under the circumstances. Of course, I will update further if my glue repair doesn't hold up.

62021
62022
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Thank you for the recommendations. After a couple of days of layering on the gel super glue, I believe the break is pretty secure. I put some pressure on it last night and then went about reassembling the gauge. I think it turned out okay under the circumstances. Of course, I will update further if my glue repair doesn't hold up.

View attachment 62021 View attachment 62022
Sorry I'm late to the discussion here. I'm glad it all worked out for you, but I'll offer my two cents' worth for future reference.

I'd never, ever use Super Glue (cyanoacrylate glue) on plastics where the appearance is critical! The vapors from the glue can badly fog plastic - especially clear lens material - and the damage is hard or impossible to remove. Count yourself lucky if this didn't happen to you.

I recommend using epoxy for this type of repair. It's not that expensive; my local Harbor Freight has tubes of epoxy for $1.79, and that would be plenty for this type of repair. Squeeze out the same amount of each onto a piece of cardboard, mix them thoroughly, and apply sparingly with a small screwdriver, etc. Make sure you don't cross-up the tops of the tubes or they'll seal themselves shut!

Rubber-band the parts together and let them sit for a bit. ("5 minute" epoxy takes about that long to gel, but give it more time to really set.)

Epoxy bonds on plastics tend to be a little rubbery, and they're forgiving in that you can usually pull the pieces apart if you've lined things up poorly or ended up with glue where you don't want it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I just purchased a tach/clock combo from a fellow in Hawaii. His auction pictures were pretty straightforward and the piece looked really good.
The issue is he didn't pack it very well and the clock part broke off the mount. The part was in a box with just one layer of bubble wrap so it had a lot of room to slide around in there.
I contacted the person but haven't heard back yet. Granted it's only been a day but this really ticks me off! I paid $150 for this and I'm hoping to at least get a few dollars back. I'm going to give him a couple of days to get back to me and I hope he had shipping insurance on it.
I bought some gel type super glue to "tack" it together but I'm thinking some sort of epoxy would work better for a permanent fix. View attachment 62005 View attachment 62006
I just bought one of these - and thought this might be a good place to get an answer. I took it to the local audio shop (they install cameras, audio, etc., and had done radio work for me before so I thought this would be an easy install for them).

After taking the car back about an hour, they said they need to take the entire dashboard OUT to install this item. I find this really hard to believe. I've seen a short Youtube on it and that doesn't appear to be the case at all.

I really want this installed! I had one put in my former Smart and loved it. Where can I take it for installation? There's a very good Auto Body Repair shop near me. I'm thinking they could figure this out and wouldn't try to sell me hours and hours of work for taking out the entire dashboard.

Okay, guys, am I right? Do I simply take it to an Auto Body shop? I'm 70 years old, a woman, and have some physical impairments, so I don't quite think I'm able to do this by myself... though "back in the day," I'd probably give it a whirl and "get 'er done"! I'm feeling kinda lost. I want to give the E-Bay seller a great rating, but until it's installed and working... (and it appeared to be brand new, in the factory box). Or... maybe I SHOULD try to install it myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thank you!

Next question: Would you be able to provide a site (with pictures) and step-by-step instructions? Even though I'm an old bat, I'll give it a try... if I can have some fool-proof, dummy-proof instructions and pictures!! But I'm guessing you're a guy, and a car guy, at that, and this is second nature to you... sorta like it's easy-peasy for me to sew a button on a shirt... but it might be daunting for you! I'm serious, I'll give it a try! Just need a little step-by-step.

AND, thank you for even replying to a dumb question from a dumb old broad. I'm not being mean, I'm being serious. I recognize this is probably a pain-in-the-ass question for ANYONE who knows how to walk around a car (which I guess isn't me)!!! (Ha-ha!! This is all in jest and I'm TRYING to inject humor into the sad situation of my even needing instructions and help, so I hope you'll take it that way).
 

·
10Year+ Supporting Member
Joined
·
3,812 Posts
Hi Katy, I hope I can be of some help. If you go to the Evilution.UK website, you will find more info on the smart than you ever thought of. It is a paid site, (about $15.00 per year), but many questions can be answered for free. I just left the site and there is a very good pictorial on how to install the dash pods. I am not a paid subscriber there and I was able to see all the info on the pod installation. If you can follow the photos and written description, you should have no issues. Whoever told you the dash had to come apart was not aware of the correct procedure or just trying to make a quick extra dollar off you. Good luck with the install. One thing, make sure you have the correct part number for the year of your car. They did change some mounting with the face lifted smarts in 2012 or2013. I can't remember the exact year of the facelift of the dash.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top