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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering what factors affect the calculation of the estimated drive distance. My ED is currently listing 110 km on a 100% charge. Is it affected by the previous driving conditions, e.g I am driving with heated seats on, wipers and headlights? I know these are all factors in how far you can go on a charge, but I am wondering if they are taken into account in the calculation, or is it merely a calculation based on the health and condition of the batteries? My car was a demo so I don't quite know what to expect in terms of potential reduced battery life. The car was in service for 12 months and was driven just under 2,000 km, so I am hoping that I am not seeing an overall loss in capacity at this time. I am would like to eventually see 140 km or better, once the planets align and I have perfect driving conditions.
 

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Your estimated range is based on your previous trip and corrected for the current trip's conditions.

Today I got 131kms in 4C weather. Avg 15.1KwH/100Kms. Estimated range started at 120kms.

I'm sure you'll see 150kms on a charge, but it won't likely happen until next spring or summer. Ambient temperature is a big factor on range.
 

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I'm still trying to figure out how to trust it. While it seems to be not too far off so far, there are a few things that bother me:

1) When the fan is turned on, estimated range drops about 10% instantly. No matter if the heat is on or what setting heat or fan I use. Use the fan at all, even just to blow cold air, and the range indication drops 10%. It also recovers when turning the fan back off. Not a very sophisticated range estimate!

2) Estimated range remaining, current charge and miles/kWh don't add up. e.g This morning after a few miles, with 90% charge left and 4.2m/kWh so far, the estimated range reads 90 miles. Now, 90% charge is 16kWh, at 4.2m/kWh I'd expect to go 67 miles. Maybe it expects I slow down enough to average 5.6 m/kWh for the rest of the day? It can't be based on past performance, either. I only had the car a few days and my average was certainly < 4 m/kWh (still too much fun to step on the Go pedal and leave stunned gas guzzlers behind...)
 

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In my experience the average Kwh/100kms (or in your case miles/KwH) is a current average over that last few Kms and not for the entire trip.
 

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In my experience the average Kwh/100kms (or in your case miles/KwH) is a current average over that last few Kms and not for the entire trip.
Oh! Interesting! I had assumed it was for the entire period since that counter was reset (Reset or Start). It seemed to behave that way too, I'll pay more attention.

Today I got 131kms in 4C weather. Avg 15.1KwH/100Kms.
Your energy accounting doesn't add up either (although the error is less). 130km at 15kWh/km is 19.8 kWh. I don't think our batteries are that big...
 

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The number does seem to be buffered by the trip average but I can't make an actual calculation out of it. % ECO also is only a measure of how consistent your speed is and how gradually you brake - I can achieve 100% ECO very easily but it doesn't necessarily equate to the best range. My best advice is to keep the miles/KwH as low as possible in order to achieve the best range.
 

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In my case, if I multiply the m/kWh on the "START" display by 20, it pretty closely matches the "MAIN" display reading showing range plus miles driven if I reset it as I start the day.

When one reads 3.6m/kWh, adding the miles I have driven plus the predicted range left, come up pretty close to 72miles.

This means to me that the 0-100% SOC meter range of the battery appears to be 20kWH. I assume that the 20kWh change over time as the battery degrades.
 

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In my experience the average Kwh/100kms (or in your case miles/KwH) is a current average over that last few Kms and not for the entire trip.
Oh! Interesting! I had assumed it was for the entire period since that counter was reset (Reset or Start). It seemed to behave that way too, I'll pay more attention.
So I paid attention yesterday: I reset the RESET odometer tin the morning. START resets itself. When I got to work, both showed 25 miles, 4.2 m/kWh.
START reset itself at work, I left RESET alone. Stepped harder on the Go pedal and had the heater on going home.
When I got home, the START odometer showed 25miles, 3.3 m/kWh. The RESET showed 50 miles and the correct average 3.7 m/kWh. (Keep in mind that m/kWh is reciprocal so you have to average 1/x.)

So it appears the RESET odometer m/kWh does track the whole time since reset, or when marc said last few km it's at least the last 50 miles. Or maybe it's changed. Mine is a 2014.
 

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Okay, I was thinking the next generation was going to be for 2014, but it looks like it will be for 2015. I don't think there's any changes in 2014.

What options did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here on the west coast of Canada we have been getting 2014 Smart ED since October. From what I have seen there are no differences between the 2013 and 2014. The available printed literature and online information still show the model as 2013.
 

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What options did you get?
Panoramic roof. Red interior. Black on silver exterior.

Thought about the paddles for brake regen tuning, but after driving the demonstrator for an hour, the default suited me fine. Glad I didn't get them, as I am completely at home with the defaults.

Unfortunately, while I ordered the Brabus rims, the dealer called me back a few months before delivery and told me that he could not provision them on the ED model, but could sell them separately.

I find the ride just "harsh" enough to consider a more softer riding rim/tire set in the future, and have been too lazy to research longer than 10 minutes on it... :eek:
 

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The VIN will tell the story (specifically, the tenth digit).
From what I've heard, the 2014 ED were all made before the factory retrofit in August to make the new 2014 ICE models. The ED line is what it is for now, and outside of a few tweaks, good luck getting an actual custom built 2014. Panels and what what not are all options, but the car itself is already made. Slap in the radio, throw on panels and rims and you're done.
 

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Panoramic roof. Red interior. Black on silver exterior.

Thought about the paddles for brake regen tuning, but after driving the demonstrator for an hour, the default suited me fine. Glad I didn't get them, as I am completely at home with the defaults.

Unfortunately, while I ordered the Brabus rims, the dealer called me back a few months before delivery and told me that he could not provision them on the ED model, but could sell them separately.

I find the ride just "harsh" enough to consider a more softer riding rim/tire set in the future, and have been too lazy to research longer than 10 minutes on it... :eek:


Lol there is absolutely no negative to having them, they should be stock. It is better to have them as they give you the ability to coast and have a stronger level of regen... and D+ is THE BEST. You start out with the same amount of regen with paddles that you do with no paddles so there's no difference except clicking left or right.
 

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Lol there is absolutely no negative to having them, they should be stock. It is better to have them as they give you the ability to coast and have a stronger level of regen... and D+ is THE BEST. You start out with the same amount of regen with paddles that you do with no paddles so there's no difference except clicking left or right.
I couldn't agree more! The $190 for the paddles is ridiculously cheap for the fun and utility you get out of them! And if you like the default, well you can still set it to that...
When I test-drove a car without them, I found it very hard to coast. It was always either accelerating a little or braking a little. Not efficient. And when I needed more than default regen, there was no way of knowing how far to push the brake to get more regen without engaging friction brakes. Not efficient, either.

My only complaint it I wish there were finer setting than just off medium and high.
 

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When I test-drove a car without them, I found it very hard to coast. It was always either accelerating a little or braking a little. Not efficient. And when I needed more than default regen, there was no way of knowing how far to push the brake to get more regen without engaging friction brakes. Not efficient, either.
While my "ECO Score" hovers around 40%, my braking efficiency is 97% according to the vh.smart app. I found it easy to get used to the regen amount of the car, I find it predicable and am able to judge distance to stop with no difficulty.

I keep getting a score of 0 for smoothness of acceleration, so there is room for me to improve. :eek: :cool:
 

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The efficiency numbers in the vh.smart app appear to not work in my case. They're stuck permanently on 50%. Hopefully the Fleetcarma data logger will give me that data.
 

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The VIN will tell the story (specifically, the tenth digit).
"E" as in hex(14)?

The first boatload to Canada seems to have arrived in late October. That is sort of when the 'next batch' of orderable cars arrived. There was quite a drought after the first 2013's came available. MB Canada sold out very quickly.

From what I can gather there are very few if any changes between 2013 and 2014. I get the sense that it is sort of like what happened with the 450's in 2007. No changes waiting for the 451's to go into production. The twingo based model is probably taking all the engineering effort now.
 
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