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Discussion Starter #1
Smart 2006 fortwo diesel
This only started happening well now. I let the car sit in idle for abit and then started smelling a burn smell.. Engine wasn't over heating or anything so I found it odd. I shut of the car and then an hour later I started it, the engine cranks, starts but it seems like it's only on 2 cylinders or maybe evan one just for maybe 5 seconds and then the car shuts off. I got no code so I have no idea what it could be maybe someone could help me?
 

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Umm... Never lol I dought it's could be burned out gp cause it isn't cold out and there would be a code right? But changing the fuel filter would be a good starting point.

Here's a little video of how crazy the car gets when it starts


https://vimeo.com/148650326


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The warning lights should not be flickering like that. What is the actual battery voltage when the engine is cranking? Start there. By which I mean, test it with a volt-meter. "It cranks fine" is not a test.
 

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About 10v.. The warning light flashing means what? I don't know if I mentioned befor but I did change the crankshaft position sensor about 2 months ago for a problem with the car stalling and not starting at all. Symptoms are different now but I'm giving it a shot by changing it


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if you have a flickering light while cranking your battery capacity is low. AND most likely your glow plugs are not getting hot, add to this a fuel filter in questionable condition and you will have a no start, or hard start...

if your battery is 5 yrs old.. CHANGE IT! find the highest cold cranking battery that will physically fit in the hole . I recently changed one on a 06 Canadian Smart diesel I considered buying.. the seller had exactly the same issue.. and considered selling cheap because they didnt want to bother with it (or Mercedes Bend-OVER dealership) . After install , the 850 CCA easily started this diesel. The owner now has second thoughts on selling, which is ok with me as everyone knows diesel Smarts are a ***** to get federalized... and in NY even tougher..
so for now I will still have the only 450 gas Smart in NY. Though i was hoping I could have a pair, gas and diesel.
steveg.
 

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This is all new to me. Battery has never been changed so it's 10 years old but since this has happened I've put the battery on the charger and it would still do the same thing.

Wouldn't bad glowplugs just do a check engine light?

And when you guys are talking about the flickering like you are talking about the wrench flashing or the light in the dash dim?


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if your battery is 10 yrs old.. consider yourself very lucky..
BUY A NEW BATTERY!!! 99% of all problems relating to shifting, starting ect on these cars is electrical starting with the battery simple as that..
a battery going south (bad), or corrosion in terminals, connectors will cause hard starting or no start. and hard or no shifting.
most modern batteries will last at the most 7 yrs before serious degradation of current ..the UMPH that makes the starter motor spin, or clutch actuator move in and out. among other things.
replace the battery , dont just charge it, as voltage will come up, but CRANKING AMPS the "UMPH" could still be low. Then check the fuzes to the glow plugs, before trying to start. if they are intact and fine, then do the start sequence . if your battery voltage is borderline the SAM unit probably will not let it start anyways. replace you battery and then get back...hope this helps.
Steveg.
 

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Battery has never been changed so it's 10 years old but since this has happened I've put the battery on the charger and it would still do the same thing.
As steveg suggests, with a 10 year old battery you have been living a "charmed life."
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i guess that is what i will do next, i installed the crankshaft sensor and it isn't any better.. sometimes would start okay but then would die right away. i would hear the belt scream so maybe i got a seized alternator with a finished battery. i have plugged in the car so it would be hot to get rid of the factor of bad glow plugs.
 

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This is all new to me. Battery has never been changed so it's 10 years old but since this has happened I've put the battery on the charger and it would still do the same thing.

Wouldn't bad glowplugs just do a check engine light?

And when you guys are talking about the flickering like you are talking about the wrench flashing or the light in the dash dim?


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Put a new battery in it. A battery charger will not fix a battery with reduced capacity. Low battery voltage will not heat the glow plugs properly and will adversely affect the operation of any electrical equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i just changed the battery with a stronger one and like i was assuming it didn't change anything apart from it starting quicker. the vehicle is running on 2 cylinders maybe evan one and shuts down after 5 seconds. i evan unplugged the injectors one by one and they all are different symptoms then what i have now. clearly not an injector problem. engine doesn't sound like its clacking but it does move like crazy, almost as if that its gonna jump out of the rear. they're must be someone out here that already has had this problem. this just started randomly and hasn't been back to normal in over 2 months. hasn't moved since please help
 

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if you replaced the battery with a GOOD NEW battery, I would then replace the FUEL FILTER and purge the air out, at the filter, then at the rack and each cylinder.
The entire system relies on a good strong battery, not only for turning the starter, glow plugs (these two use a lot of current), then the ECU, and the INJECTORS which are a coil and plunger (electromagnetic) that pull open firing fuel into the cylinder. if the Current is LOW this is a weak or insufficient pull agianst the spring internal in the injector, Sabotaging the entire start sequence.

A strong battery is essential for any diesel that does not have a mechanical injector system, a mechanical injector system is run by cams and usually in tractors, and heavy equipment .
As I said before, REPLACE THE BATTERY WITH A NEW HIGH CCA rated BATTERY (i suggest at least 600 CCA minimum). Change the fuel filter (which i suspect probably was never done) why do i suspect that? the fact that there is a 10 yr old battery..... neglect in basic maint.. so replace it, Purge the filter, rack and then injectors. and if you decide you might want to sell this... contact me.
steveg.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the ideas.. I will definitely do that next. Like I said i did change to a good battery and it shows it starts (cranks) much better but still the same problem.


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I did a few other things befor changing the filter.. Checked fuses and all of them are okay, tried starting the car with another running vehicle so problem isn't the alternator. We might be thinking that my father might of put gas in the smart instead of diesel, he's very forget full and isnt careful sometimes. Tomorow we will empty the tank and fill it up with diesel.

What are symptoms or maybe problems that will happen by putting gas in a diesel smart?


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if thats the case, then you could be in for some serious work. if you purge the fuel system , smell it for gas. the entire tank will need draining, the fuel filter changing, and all lines and injectors blown out. the high pressue end could suffer damage as it relies on diesel to lubricate it internally, and gasoline will wash any and all out, could destroy the internal seals... usually this takes a while to do. if you have run this for any period of time with contaminated fuel then it could be toast. you may have gotten lucky and no real damage has occurred YET. as I said everything will need to be drained, and flushed with diesel first , then bled out . lets hope you got it in time. the injector pump is fairly rugged, the seals internally would suffer first, and a rebuild expensive..
steveg.
 
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