[Crew681]

Hi everyone.

I have a 2008 with 120K miles. Ran fine no issues. I stopped at a light and the car stalled, the clutch didn't engage but it did down shift. The car was towed to the dealer and I was told it was the ECU issue. The mechanic did by-pass at the shift control module with a jumper and the car will start. EST $1200.00 plus they said the transmission seemed "weird". I sent the ECU, keys, odometer and ECM to SOS Diagnostics in Portland for replacement. SOS tested the units and returned them as working after tested them and installing them on another smart car. It does have the riginal battery.
What do I replace next? Any advice?

Thanks in advance.

Linus

 

[OliverB]

First, the original battery!

 

[jwight]

What have we learned about possible no start causes?
Bad brake light switch
Bad crank position sensor
No fuel
No spark
No air
Any more? Does it turn over and try to start?

 

[smark]

I'd start with the original battery.

 

[toaster]

The mechanic did by-pass at the shift control module with a jumper and the car will start.

There seems to be some reading comprehension issues here... so the car DOES start when the 'shift control module' is bypassed.

I'm not sure if you are referring to the selector lever module (N15/5) or the transmission control module (N15/6). I'd suggest looking at these two modules, especially the one which the tech bypassed in order to start the car.

What does your dash display for gear position?

~toaster

 

[Crew681]

Thanks for the advice

I installed all the electronics and a fresh new battery. Now I have the three bars of death. Tried the brake, key on, shift, shift, shift. Three times. No change. What should I try next?
Thanks

 

[MB DNA]

The car was towed to the dealer and I was told it was the ECU issue. The mechanic did by-pass at the shift control module with a jumper and the car will start.

It does have the riginal battery.
What do I replace next? Any advice?

"The dealer" - a M-B smart Center?

As OliverB & smark suggested, replace THE BATTERY - done!

 

[Crew681]

Yes the dealer did a bypass with a single jumper on the computer at the right rear, inside the car. His point was the ECU and EMU need to be replaced. They checked out fine and working in Portland.

 

[toaster]

Yes the dealer did a bypass with a single jumper on the computer at the right rear, inside the car. His point was the ECU and EMU need to be replaced. They checked out fine and working in Portland.

I think the transmission control module (N15/6) is located in the right rear. Why the dealer flagged the ECU/EMU I don't know. :shrug:

I think you need to get the car to a (another?) dealer and have a diagnostic scan done by a star machine. I don't know if the aftermarket scanners can query the transmission module.

~toaster

 

[Miss Mercedes]

Huh, that seems like bad troubleshooting on the dealer's part. It almost sounds like that perhaps swapping out that 9 year old battery could have solved the problem, but the dealer went in and decided to mess around with the computers and potentially messed things up even more.

I'm seconding getting a second opinion on this.

 

[smrt4her]

I had the same issue today, but my battery is only a year old. Did you ever figure out what was wrong?