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Discussion Starter #1
If I remove it can it be run without it? Mine fell off and the bolt holes are gone.
 

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It’s probably best to keep it in place to help prevent the possibility of fire.

You can use drill a few holes in the heat shield and use aluminum or other non-insulated metal wire to keep the heat shield from rattling around.
 

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Your decision but...
Normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F.

The average light off temperature at which the catalytic converter begins to function ranges from 400 to 600 degrees F. The normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F. But as the amount of pollutants in the exhaust go up, so does the converter's operating temperature.

Remember to leave an air space between the converter and the heat sshield in order to offer proper protection.
I'd carry a fire extinguisher till fixed, but then I'm a realist.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your decision but...
Normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F.

The average light off temperature at which the catalytic converter begins to function ranges from 400 to 600 degrees F. The normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F. But as the amount of pollutants in the exhaust go up, so does the converter's operating temperature.

Remember to leave an air space between the converter and the heat sshield in order to offer proper protection.
I'd carry a fire extinguisher till fixed, but then I'm a realist.
Good luck.
would running the rear valance and fenders off for now help? I was thinking of just getting the header for it.
 

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It might help a little, but probably not enough. It’s just too much heat. In my opinion, the effort of wiring the heat shield back in is very cheap insurance to keep my little buddy from going up in flames.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I might be able to also place some huge washers where the holes were for the botls. To re-secure the heat shield.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
rear crash bar and frame ends were pretty much dissolved, going to order a new set, the bolts were stripped. The engine cradle and rear frame are solid. exhaust not so much the muffler is full of holes LOL.
 

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I have been known to use bits of aluminum flashing and in one case a can to make patches as suggested above. The problem isn't airflow, it's that you have a high temperature body radiating heat in a confined space. The heatshield reflects a lot of radiant heat and without it that heat will be reaching equipment that isn't rated for it. First thing I can think of that is probably going to be affected is the wiring and plugs for the O2 sensors since they're right there, I would not be surprised if the body panels melted if operated for any length of time.
 

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would running the rear valance and fenders off for now help? I was thinking of just getting the header for it.
I have a Doug Thorley complete exhaust system for a 2008 smart. Only used for one month, wife said it was too loud. She thinks a car should be seen and not heard. It is all stainless steel. It cost $400 and I will sell for $200 plus shipping. I priced shipping from Florida to the Northeast and it was $63 dollars. PM me for photos 321-639-4917
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a Doug Thorley complete exhaust system for a 2008 smart. Only used for one month, wife said it was too loud. She thinks a car should be seen and not heard. It is all stainless steel. It cost $400 and I will sell for $200 plus shipping. I priced shipping from Florida to the Northeast and it was $63 dollars. PM me for photos 321-639-4917
Interested
 
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