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Have a 2008 smart car fortwo. Recently changed the clutch actuator on it. Couldnt even put the car in reverse it was so bad. Switched it out, hooked everything up and the car is running fine except for one thing. When I put the car in reverse and let off the break Im expecting the car to have the natural 5mph start to it thats its always had even before the actuator was switched out and it doesnt. Im not talking about acceleration when you put your foot on the gas. Im talking about the natural kick the car has when you start it and shift the gear. Thought it was the plug not being hooked up properly but thats been ruled out. Not sure what the f**k is weong with this thing. Any ideas? Has anyone had this issue before?
 

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So you seem to be describing "Creep Mode" but have you lost it only in reverse. When I am in reverse and take my foot of the break "creep" mode dose not jump in immediately. So does it ever kick in for you in reverse. The two times I have lost creep mode is when I had a brake light switch issue and when I disable it on purpose with the one click up E brake method.

This thread one person ( the 7th post ) makes a distinction between the 2008 and 2009 clutch actuator.

https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f25/turning-off-creep-24728/

Along with stating the US cars are different then others on Creep Mode
 

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That still doesnt tell me as to how I turn the damn thing back on. Theres just a lot of discussion of how to turn it off. My car was made in germany but more than likely had an american clutch actuator that caused the creep mode function to work. And after replacing it the creep mode function has vanished. I dont have a computer to reprogram it and dont think the techs up at Smart would necessarily do something like that either. I thought maybe it was something that just might work itself out with te new clutch but that hasnt worked either.
 

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Markus
Have you tried the tranny re-learn procedure? It is quite simple, enter car, foot on brake, key to pos 2, (engine off), slowly cycle shifter P,R,N,D, slide left then fwd & back, then slide back to D,N,R,P. Key to off and release brake.
That is how I have done this procedure and it helped me many times until I finally did the maintenance on the clutch actuator, shifter motors, and new tranny fluid.
Keep us advised!
 

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Markus
Have you tried the tranny re-learn procedure? It is quite simple, enter car, foot on brake, key to pos 2, (engine off), slowly cycle shifter P,R,N,D, slide left then fwd & back, then slide back to D,N,R,P. Key to off and release brake.
That is how I have done this procedure and it helped me many times until I finally did the maintenance on the clutch actuator, shifter motors, and new tranny fluid.
Keep us advised!
dhlairbusb4 in reading your post it seems like after the maintenance you had less need to do the relearn procedure. So would you discribe the gearing to become more stable after the maintenance.
My experience is that working my gears with the manual paddles makes my gears very happy to play. It's being a bit agressive when in auto mode that the gearbox looks forward to a relearn.
 

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2com, I agree to an extent. The only times I seem to have had issues was when using purely the auto mode.... but since I too like the paddles, I have not had any problems.
I am not saying I have to rev up a lot, sometimes I use the paddles during very slow acceleration, but still having the control of the revs is better than the auto mode, where it will
always want to shift as a low rpm. So, is the gearing more stable, maybe... but much more controllable {happy} using paddles.
 

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for Smart fortwo (Type 451)
Can be used with or without a tuning file.

Our proven actuator conversion is now also available for your Smart fortwo 451 .
Our conversions are used in racing, among others, where they are tried and tested.
The mode of operation of the optigear conversion system is new and unique.
Our modified actuators switch faster, softer and more comfortably than an unmodified series actuator.

The replacement of the actuator is also possible for the layperson.

I N FO for A B L A U F


Note:
The conversion does not constitute a repair, general overhaul or the purchase of a replacement part. The conversion is carried out exclusively on your actuator

The advantages of the optigear system:
  • durable, steadfast alternative
  • clean, quick gear changes even with a cold clutch
  • noticeable
reduction in gear shift times - pleasant gear changes even in automatic mode - significantly softer, faster precise gear shifting and grinding in - no jerking while driving - no excessive heating of the components compared to the series - lifelong constant forces without fatigue - constant constant preload - universally applicable for vehicles with or without tuning file - maintenance-free - long-lasting mechanics - guarantee on the replaced components

The conversion of your actuator includes:
  • Open
  • degrease
  • obstruct the system components
  • fat
  • dense
  • Shut off (permanently)
  • 2 year warranty on the updated components

So...... Anyboby.......?
 

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"auto mode, where it will
always want to shift as a low rpm..."

Not necessarily. The car takes its cue from how the driver uses the gas pedal. Press it gently and the car will upshift as soon as possible. Press it aggressively and the car will accelerate quickly and hold that acceleration until the driver lifts off...?
 

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JW, yes your correct... but I have never been one to do the aggressive thing... unless I am in a dire need to get out of the way of a dangerous situation....
but I have noticed that it will do that. I still like the paddles more!
 

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YMMV....I drive in Auto 99% of the time and the car is plenty responsive. If it gets confused or needs a quick spurt of speed, the paddles are always there. :)
 

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But something happens to cause the relearn to be needed can that need be lessened. ?

I guess going right to the core question. Can we physically improve this Clutch Actuator part with all available to us since its initial design. 3D Printers, Teflon/pte coated polished metals, Knowledge of spring rates, and clutch release bearing adjustments. Can This be improved upon.
 

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YMMV....I drive in Auto 99% of the time and the car is plenty responsive. If it gets confused or needs a quick spurt of speed, the paddles are always there. :)
Quite hilly where I live, which challenges the downshift logic of the 451 transmission in auto. Lag was not pleasant and sometimes bordered on dangerous. With my 451 I quickly learned when I needed to use the paddles and when to allow auto downshift to do the job. On level ground it was not as much of a concern.
 

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The German company you mentioned above seem to think they have done just that. ?nt
It seems so here in SCOA there may be someone on in the USA that may be able to build a better mouse trap. I am also reading how the Clutch actuator rod will eventually punch trough socket in the fork rendering the poor Smart undrivable. Corrosion and erosion are deemed to be the main causes for socket wear.

Now I went out this morning and did both the Gear relearn and the throttle reset and the car is butter smooth.

After that its been watching you tube tutorial after tutorial of driving manual transmissions. I am intently listening and then judging what the My Smart is doing when in automatic and what I actually need to do better when I drive it in manual timing the clutch movement. Note here the Go Pedal in my opinion is as much about matching clutch timing better as anything ( I love it). I haven't been off and on the throttle when paddle shifting strangely I do get on and off the throttle when using the gear shift.

Hmmmph. Odd.
 

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After 10 days of driving only with gear shifter in manual and paddle shifting only, I must report that the car has extremely stable. I have also become so in tune with the car by sound. I do believe I will eventually install the modified clutch actuator. I am also going to now get a real understanding of what clutch and transmission work would be beneficial. I will do both the relearn and reset procedures regularly in the mean time.
 
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