[jimvw57]

FINALLY got the actuator off the car, Tried disconnecting the connector, then trying to start the car, didn't work... so I pulled the actuator off and got it opened up, found there was not much lubrication and the plastic gear looks broken where the ball and socket connect. It just lays in there which I don't think is correct (??) anyone have an idea??

https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43268&stc=1&d=1570418237

https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43270&stc=1&d=1570418237

https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43272&stc=1&d=1570418237

 

[dhlairbusb4]

Hey Jim
Think you could make those pics any smaller? I'm just sayin... kind of hard to look at.
Anyway.... check out evolution, clutch actuator. great pics and info there.
When I did my actuator, it was pretty dry... after a good cleaning, I lubed it with white lithium grease, knock on wood, but has
been running great ever since.
Now, since your working on it... might as well do the gear shifter motors as well. A good cleaning and also R&R the tranny fluid. I used Redline MT90,
The hardest part on that job is removing the air box assembly. I had to cut mine in half to get it out. I had planned to ditch it anyway...
and I went with the madness cold air intake. There are other options, and you can even do a home made unit like the one pictured I used it until my madness kit was delivered.
Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[jimvw57]

I'll work on that...

I didn't use the hosting site I usually use so the pics came out small. sorry...

I watched a youtube video from Sweden that showed complete dismantling the actuator and have determined it might be OK, just really dry on the lubricant. Any idea what I should use for lubrication? looked like they used silicone grease, but I want to make sure it works at say -30 degrees during winter months.

Shift motors might be a good idea if the weather co-operates, been getting a lot of rain, and now colder temps.

 

[Igor Barbaros]

Got a link on that video?

I'll work on that...

I didn't use the hosting site I usually use so the pics came out small. sorry...

I watched a youtube video from Sweden that showed complete dismantling the actuator and have determined it might be OK, just really dry on the lubricant. Any idea what I should use for lubrication? looked like they used silicone grease, but I want to make sure it works at say -30 degrees during winter months.

Shift motors might be a good idea if the weather co-operates, been getting a lot of rain, and now colder temps.

 

[dhlairbusb4]

I used white lithium grease from a spray can. I loaded it up pretty good.
The shift motors are accessible after removing the air box. No lubing on the motors, just cleaning out all the gunk.
Each motor has an electrical connector, clean and lube those with a water resistant grease.
When done, you will have to do a relearn and then your car should shift much better.

 

[jimvw57]

right now I would settle for poor shifting if it would just start!! I get the 3 lines and no noise from the clutch/ shift motors when I turn the key on so re-learning doesn't happen. Also no start. Crawling under the car takes me a day to recover.

 

[Igor Barbaros]

Vlad is Ukrainian I believe. The video is in Russian. Great video none the less. He's got a nice channel for smart maintenance. Thanks

right now I would settle for poor shifting if it would just start!! I get the 3 lines and no noise from the clutch/ shift motors when I turn the key on so re-learning doesn't happen. Also no start. Crawling under the car takes me a day to recover.

 

[jimvw57]

Another question, On evilution, and in other posts, they mention starting the car, jump if required.. are they saying to "jump" by manually activating the starter? Maybe this is what I am missing... Starter is right near the actuator...

My thinking is Jump start is using another vehicle (or battery) o start a car that has low battery power. but I guess it could mean to short across the terminals on the starter to make it start..

 

[dhlairbusb4]

I agree with you, jump start is for a car with a low battery.

 

[Snowball]

Jim, did you disconnect the battery when doing your troubleshooting? The typical response for anything with a computer in it today is to "turn it off and back on" or "reboot". The only way to do that with a car is to remove the battery and let the circuits discharge for a few minutes. I think you can just unhook the negative terminal, you don't have to physically take the battery out of the car.

 

[jimvw57]

I had the negative terminal disconnected overnight to try to reset system, no change. that is when I started going after the actuator. Also put charger on for 24 hours to fully charge the battery. again, no change.

 

[jimvw57]

Finally got out to work on this critter this morning. Got the actuator back in place, turned the key... and nothing. Sill the 3 bars, and when I turn the key to the start position, I hear a click from under the dash, but no starter or gear noises. I did jump across the starter solinoid to the motor terminal and it sounds like the starter moves.

I now have the battery removed, Batt voltage measures 11 volts,with headlights on, it measures 10.8 volts, turning the key to start position, it goes back to 11 volts, charged for a few hours (until the charger says charged) and voltage reads 12.38 volts. After 3 hours not being connected, or even in the car, voltage still says 12.38 volts. The mystery continues....

 

[dhlairbusb4]

Jim... after you installed the actuator, I would try the transmission relearn procedure prior to attempting to start.

 

[toaster]

Finally got out to work on this critter this morning. Got the actuator back in place, turned the key... and nothing. Sill the 3 bars, and when I turn the key to the start position, I hear a click from under the dash, but no starter or gear noises. I did jump across the starter solinoid to the motor terminal and it sounds like the starter moves.

I now have the battery removed, Batt voltage measures 11 volts,with headlights on, it measures 10.8 volts, turning the key to start position, it goes back to 11 volts, charged for a few hours (until the charger says charged) and voltage reads 12.38 volts. After 3 hours not being connected, or even in the car, voltage still says 12.38 volts. The mystery continues....

Simply turning the key to the 'on' position should result in the clutch actuator plunger extending...easy to verify both audibly and visually.

If it's not happening, either the actuator is bad or the smart brain has found some other reason to mess with you!

~toaster

 

[jimvw57]

The re-learn proceedure did not do anything once the actuator was installed. Last night I pulled the battery and checked the voltage this morning, sitting on the floor in the kitchen (linolium floor) and voltage dropped slightly. Today I hauled the battery to Walmart where I purchased it in 6/17 and they did a charge/load test on ot. That confirmed my guess that it wasn't up to par and they replaced it with a new one. When I got home, installed the battery, and when I turned the key, I was greeted with the sound of the actuator moving and gear motors trying to do their thing. Unfortunately I still have the 3 bars, no gear display, and it still doesn't start. Tried the re-teach again and heard nothing. Maybe too soon or I might need to disconnect the battery(?)

I did notice the brake pedal seems to be solid, and the shifter feels funny when I shift out of park. Possibly something got tweaked inside the floor console when the grandson was playing around and was scared when the car started. Had to calm him down afterwards

Anyhow, at least I am hearing noises now that I wasn't hearing before. so that is a little encouraging! Next steps are to verify the brake switch (lights) and the shifter functions, then maybe the starter motor(??)

 

[dhlairbusb4]

Jim, I just saw this post from a long time ago, back in 08.





graphix1998
Registered



Joined Mar 9, 2008

57 Posts






Discussion Starter • #5 • Jul 25, 2008

reset

1. Push down and hold in brake
2. turn key to on (#1 position)
3. shift from P-R-N-D then manual mode (+/-) then back to D-N-R-P
4. turn key off
5. start car

I could hear movement in the engine compartment (going through the gears) and it worked. The CSR said that if you shut down the car and it isn't in P completely, then upon restart it won't work... this somehow reprograms the car electronically.

Hope this helps anyone else...

Did you try the relearn with brake pedal held down?

 

[jimvw57]

Yup. about 15 times now. When I replaced the battery this weekend, it was out of the car for about 20 hours, when I put the new one in, it did make some noise in the back like it was trying to move things around, but then same old thing, 3 lines and no start. Now it won't do anything when I hold the brakes, and turn the key to position 1 and move the gear shift. Maybe something got tweaked in the floor console?? the shifter doesn't feel the same as it used to when moving out of park. Trying to start in neutral doesn't do anything either. Might try crawling under and going directly to the starter solenoid to see if it starts.

 

[jimvw57]

Looking at taking apart the shifter and see if something came apart (??) Found a good video on youtube..

Anyone know if I end up replacing the unit, do I need to hit the dealer for re-programing if I change the keylock?

 

[dhlairbusb4]

Jim, my guess is no! I think the programming would only be required if you changed the key fob electronics.

 

[Bob Ricewasser]

I have seen a few shifters where a small spring has popped out. Once apart, the spring can be put back in place.