Clutch actuator disected

76138 Views 104 Replies 35 Participants Last post by smark, 9 mo ago

WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · May 3, 2012

OK, I promised that if somebody sent me a bad actuator, I would disassemble and show you what makes it tick. So, here it is. Thanks to Chieftmc for letting me have his old actuator.

First is the complete actuator:

We've all seen this before. Start by removing the 5 torx screws holding the cover on with a T20 bit driver:

After removing the cover and the rubber bellows, this is what you see:

Next you disengage the pushrod by inserting a screw driver and prying slightly to pop it loose. The ball end just snaps into the socket:

Next you can remove the motor by removing the two T30 screws from the mounting flange:

Continued in next post....

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #2 · May 3, 2012

Once you have the motor out, you can see it is sealed to the case with a rubber O-ring:

The case of the motor is held together by two tabs bent over the mounting flange. See following pictures:

Once you bend out the tabs and separate the motor, this is what you see:

It's just a simple DC motor. I have not had time to pin out the connector, but I will post that once I have time.

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 3, 2012

You can then work on taking out the cam that operates the pushrod. Start by removing the spring clip holding it on the shaft. Note: you will break the clip trying to remove it. It is very brittle:

This is the view through the opening the pushrod goes through:

You can insert a screw driver under it and pry it out of the case:

There is a plastic cover over the actual cam that appears to act as a shock absorber at the end of travel for the cam. In the following two pictures, you can see the spring mounted inside. It engages two tabs on the back of the cover and the cover has pads on each end that contact the case:

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 3, 2012

Next I disassembled the pushrod itself. Not sure the purpose of this mechanism, other than it seem to take up slack and keep the pushrod constantly engaged with the throw out arm for the clutch:

Next is a couple of pictures of the cam & helper spring removed:

And here is the empty case:

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BARNEY O

· #5 · May 3, 2012

Very interesting ... what was actually wrong with this actuator??

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #6 · May 3, 2012

Next you will see the culprit behind the failure of this unit:

As you can see, the pivot shaft has rusted. Chief had posted previously that he found moisture in this unit. It worked it's way down the pivot shaft and caused it to rust which bound up the cam.

I am going to attempt to clean this unit up and see if I can get it working again. I couldn't find any issues with the motor. It was nice and clean with smooth bearings.

I am hoping to be able to pin out the connector. It uses a 6 pin setup. Although, I'm not sure what for. It's a simple DC motor, so I only see a need for two, + & -. There is no sign of any kind of resolver or encoder to tell the TCU positioning, so i have to assume it works off of load sensing.

The actuator holds either end by over centering the cam. The coil spring will hold it at each end. I'm assumng that the motor is there just to get it over the center and the spring does most of the work????

Anyway, I will update this thread as I discover more info. It's getting late, and I have to be up a 5 am to go to work.

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Kermit

· #7 · May 3, 2012

I was about to ask if you'd attempt a rebuild, its exactly what I'd have tried too.

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rubyg

· #8 · May 3, 2012

the connector

must have some hall effect sensors for position sensing info to the computer.

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a2jack

· #9 · May 3, 2012

Thanks to WT+Blk and to the Chief for doing this for our forum.

The activator, overall , Looks like typical Euro over-engineering and way too complex. It will remain a weak spot in our cars.

With the 451's demise in sight, those of us who plan to keep our cars long term as collectables, would do well to buy an extra activator and set it aside while they are still available.

As we say in aviation "It Ain't If, It's When" .

A2Jack

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #10 · May 3, 2012

I had an aweful time getting the cam off the pin. I used every type of tool I had to wedge underneath it an pry. It was bound up extremely tight.

By the way, anybody still wondering about the teeth, the ones on the cam are plastic, molded right into the part. The output on the motor is steel, looks to be chrome plated, since it didn't rust.

If I have time, I'm going to try and futher disect the motor today. Hopefully get a pin out of the connector.

I managed to clean up the shaft this morning, and now the cam pivots beautifully.

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chieftmc

· #11 · May 3, 2012 (Edited)

Apparently, THIS is the part that has caused soooooo many problems as reported by Kane

Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia Snapped Clutch Actuator Spiral Gear

OR, perhaps "moisture" intrusion as shown here

I'm thinking we need to get some "lube" down the cam and onto the shaft !

Thanks again WNB08

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BARNEY O

· #12 · May 3, 2012

Stay out of the mud puddles...

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chieftmc

· #13 · May 3, 2012

BARNEY O said:
Stay out of the mud puddles...

Can't help it in all these cornfields !!!

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Evilution

· #14 · May 3, 2012 (Edited)

WhiteNBlack08 said:
Hopefully get a pin out of the connector.

1- stepper sensor - (Brown/Grey)
2- sensor position 1 (Blue/Yellow)
3- actuator motor + (Red/Green)
4- sensor position 2 (Grey/Violet)
5- stepper sensor + (White/Yellow)
6- actuator motor - (Violet/White)

Is it OK if I borrow some of these pictures for later use? (full credit to you obviously).

Looks like a rusted pivot shaft could be another factor of failure of these units and it could be beneficial to fire some penetrating lube into them every year just to keep it free moving.

Thanks to Chief for the heads-up email. I would have replied but although you sent it twice, you got your email address wrong both times lol.

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #15 · May 3, 2012

chieftmc said:
Apparently, THIS is the part that has caused soooooo many problems as reported by Kane

Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia Snapped Clutch Actuator Spiral Gear

OR, perhaps "moisture" intrusion as shown here

I'm thinking we need to get some "lube" down the cam and onto the shaft !

Thanks again WNB08

And this one is actually in really good shape. It is a thin part though, so I can imagine it snapping off in the right circumstances.

One other thing to note in the picture above. If you notice the black plastic ring going around the motor case. The large piece hanging off the side of it is a cap for what appears to be some kind of vent in the top of the unit. There is a long cast in stand that is hollow that this plastic piece slides over. I originally thought it was a support for the motor, but looking at the end of the aluminum finger that sticks up, it apppears to have some kind of white filter material pressed in the end. This one is solid, I can't find any evident that water has penetrated it. Just thought it was intersting added info.

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #16 · May 3, 2012

Evilution said:
1- stepper sensor -
2- sensor position 1
3- actuator motor +
4- sensor position 2
5- stepper sensor +
6- actuator motor -

Is it OK if I borrow some of these pictures for later use? (full credit to you obviously).

Looks like a rusted pivot shaft could be another factor of failure of these units and it could be beneficial to fire some penetrating lube into them every year just to keep it free moving.

Thanks for the pin out, do you have a picture showing what pin is what?

Yes, you can use my pictures. I would be proud to have my info on your site.

Now you really peaked my curiousity. There must be a hall effect or something in the plastic end of the motor. All I can see right now is the brushes. Going to have to disassemble futher.....

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stressed member

· #17 · May 3, 2012

Could that complicated pushrod be a self adjuster?

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SmartDigger

· #18 · May 3, 2012

how would you get to the came to lube it?

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WhiteNBlack08

Discussion Starter · #19 · May 3, 2012

stressed member said:
Could that complicated pushrod be a self adjuster?

Could be. I hadn't thought of that. With the two rollers & tapered divider. There are metal plates inside the body that are molded in. I didn't take pictures of them. I'll have to clean everything up and do some testing.....

This is why I love this forum. Everybody contributes ideas.

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Evilution

· #20 · May 3, 2012

WhiteNBlack08 said:
Thanks for the pin out, do you have a picture showing what pin is what?

Yes, you can use my pictures. I would be proud to have my info on your site.

Now you really peaked my curiousity. There must be a hall effect or something in the plastic end of the motor. All I can see right now is the brushes. Going to have to disassemble futher.....

Look in the end of the connector, the pin numbers are sometimes moulded into the end next to each pin. If not, I have edited my previous post to add wire colours so you can work it out.

Thanks for the permission.

It's not unusual for smart to use rotational hall sensors. Here is one on the forfour throttle body.
Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia
It'll all be hidden in the end of the motor probably.

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