Smart Car of America Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Howdy y'all,

My alarm system has been malfunctioning since I got the car (high pitched siren goes off unless I disable in cabin), and the locking mechanism just recently became unresponsive to any attempts to lock/unlock it (both keys' buttons did nothing even with new batteries, mechanical keyblade also did not work). Since both of these issues are on fuse 12, I replaced that fuse with a new one (was not blown, not sure what the problem was), and the locking mechanism at least works again. However, as the fuse pins looked pretty corroded, I replaced several other fuses in case they would also cause problems soon. I made sure to only replace fuses that were fairly unimportant in case there were issues, such as those for interior lights and audio.
However, the check engine light came on shortly after starting the engine, and gave me a P2610 Freezeframe code. I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes in an attempt to reboot the ECU, code was still Freezeframe but the engine light was off now. I cleared the code, then did a drive cycle, and the code reappeared as P2610 Pending, and the engine light remains off. The car performed perfectly normally during the entire drive cycle, and I took it for 45 miles across various speeds to be sure.
Do y'all think this is an issue I should keep trying to fix, even when the car shows no symptoms of the code (google says it is for the ECM/PCM not being able to tell if the engine is off and for how long)? If so, do y'all have any ideas on how to fix it/what might be causing it?

I thank you for reading this long post, and for any knowledge/insight you have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,171 Posts
If the fuses are corroded, then I also worry about the fuse box itself. These don't happen to be on the SAM? (I'm hoping not)!

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They are on the SAM; I'm not 100% certain it was corrosion, as the metal pins were just a much darker shade of metal near the plastic part of the fuse. There was no physical damage to the metal other than the color change but I wanted to be sure since I've had problems with the 12 fuse in the past. One of the other fuses did spark quite a bit as I was replacing it, I'm not sure if that's normal either. I'm not well versed in electrical problems, obviously ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
Might want to disconnect the negative ground when pulling/installing fuses...
I would also remove the SAM, and clean all the contacts where the fuses go.
Has the car ever had any water damage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was planning on testing if there is a short in any of the circuits, specially the one that sparked so much on insertion. As far as I know, the car hasn't had any water damage, as it was parked covered by the previous owner and garaged by me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update

So I've gone thru some of the steps suggested by a guide for the P2610 code, and isolated the wiring problem to those connected to the ECM.
I found it to be too coincidental that the check engine light came on after one of the fuses sparked multiple times, and I think maybe this spark caused the code/shorted a wire. I could be completely wrong but I'd like to explore that option before doing anything expensive/drastic such as unit replacements.
The ECU was also reflashed with the MADNESS plug in thing, which I've read that the code may be fixed by flashing again, so I will try that also.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top