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Discussion Starter #1
Had the 40,000 mile service done on Lit'l Brat at the MB dealership in Oxnard, CA, the cost was $410.00 but did not include the changing of the raditor coolant, but it is part of the 40,000 service. My question is, has any one changed there coolant on their cars? What's involved in doing this?
 

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Changing the coolant the same as on any modern car. Drain the coolant out of the radiator petcock, Close radiator petcock. Add 50/50 water and coolant. Or what the mixer says in the owner manual. Start the car, heats up, till the thermostat opens. Top off the coolant over flow container. Only issue I can think of is where's the a bleed valve on the coolant system, to get the air out of the lines.

Or take it to the dealer. Let them do it. So you won't kill, any cats, and dogs.
 

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Once the thermostat opens and the fluid circulates the air will bubble to the radiator, then just top off the level. Most radiator thermostats have a small bleed hole in them also.
 

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No petcock that I could find had to pull hoses. To bleed air out there is a small hose on the top of the engine. That you have to pull back(while car is running) and let anti freeze out and refill the res several times. Until you are sure to have the air out. Or your car will over heat. Tech said they have had a few that they have had to bleed that way.wow didn't notice that I put the (while car is running)out of place. Any way SmartDigger explained it much better below
 

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General​
If some or all of the coolant has been drained, the
cooling system must be bled after refilling.​
Fill​
Unscrew the cooling system cap and fill the cooling
system up to the "MAX" mark in the expansion reser
voir.​
Bleeding​
Unfasten the clamp, pull off the coolant hose and wait
until coolant emerges from the coolant hose and the
cylinder head. Then reconnect the coolant hose and
fasten it with the clamp.
Top up the expansion reservoir to the "MAX" mark
again and screw on the cooling system cap.
Warm up the engine until the thermostat opens. Switch
off the engine and check the coolant level in the
expansion reservoir.​
P20.00
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The dealer wanted $129.00 to change the coolant, so maybe I should have them do it? Is that hose easy to find to bleed off the air?
 

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General​

If some or all of the coolant has been drained, the
cooling system must be bled after refilling.
Fill
Unscrew the cooling system cap and fill the cooling
system up to the "MAX" mark in the expansion reser
voir.
Bleeding
Unfasten the clamp, pull off the coolant hose and wait
until coolant emerges from the coolant hose and the
cylinder head. Then reconnect the coolant hose and
fasten it with the clamp.
Top up the expansion reservoir to the "MAX" mark
again and screw on the cooling system cap.
Warm up the engine until the thermostat opens. Switch
off the engine and check the coolant level in the
expansion reservoir.

P20.00
+1...
 

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The dealer wanted $129.00 to change the coolant, so maybe I should have them do it? Is that hose easy to find to bleed off the air?

It's right beside the cylinder head, transmission side. I had mine changed by the dealer, unfortunately it was because of a raccoon strike that took out my radiator, or I would have done it myself.

It is critical that you do this bleed, otherwise the head will hold an air pocket and you will smoke the engine!
 

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It is listed as a 40,000 interval, but I believe that is based on a 4 year schedule. It may not be needed at 40,000 but will be needed at 4 years.
 

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No petcock that I could find had to pull hoses.

You're right. The factory service info tells you to pull the bottom radiator hose to drain the system. FYI, the factory clamps are the crimp on type. Make sure you get yourself a new hose clamp(preferably the T-bolt style) before starting. There is also a drain plug in the block, although at the moment I can't remember its exact location. I'll have to look it up tonight. I believe it is on the rearward side of the motor. The block will not drain unless you pull this plug as well.
 

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You're right. The factory service info tells you to pull the bottom radiator hose to drain the system. FYI, the factory clamps are the crimp on type. Make sure you get yourself a new hose clamp(preferably the T-bolt style) before starting. There is also a drain plug in the block, although at the moment I can't remember its exact location. I'll have to look it up tonight. I believe it is on the rearward side of the motor. The block will not drain unless you pull this plug as well.
Thanks for THAT info :)

I looked in the "Tech" manual, but found no mention of the block plug ??

Is it listed in the WIS ???
 

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I Notice this last post is over a year old, but i will add my two cents worth concerning the bleeding procedure. I had a catastropic engine failure last year and swapped it out with a salvage engine. I refilled it by filling the system with as much as it would take, starting the engine and repeatedly adding more as it burped the air out. It has been 10k miles since then and the level in the jug has remained the same ever since. As far as I can see, the only absolutely positive way would be to remove the small hose from the rear end of the head that sends the coolant to the water pump. That is the highest point in the system and the ONLY
 

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I Notice this last post is over a year old, but i will add my two cents worth concerning the bleeding procedure. I had a catastropic engine failure last year and swapped it out with a salvage engine. I refilled it by filling the system with as much as it would take, starting the engine and repeatedly adding more as it burped the air out. It has been 10k miles since then and the level in the jug has remained the same ever since. As far as I can see, the only absolutely positive way would be to remove the small hose from the rear end of the head that sends the coolant to the water pump. That is the highest point in the system and the ONLY
That IS the procedure, the hose in the head on the tranny side :)
 

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I Notice this last post is over a year old, but i will add my two cents worth concerning the bleeding procedure. I had a catastropic engine failure last year and swapped it out with a salvage engine. I refilled it by filling the system with as much as it would take, starting the engine and repeatedly adding more as it burped the air out. It has been 10k miles since then and the level in the jug has remained the same ever since. As far as I can see, the only absolutely positive way would be to remove the small hose from the rear end of the head that sends the coolant to the water pump. That is the highest point in the system and the ONLY

what was the cause of the catastrophic failure?
 

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Is there a better write up changing the coolant-antifreeze?
How much antifreeze do i need to mix to verify that i got all the air bubbles out? How much is used to change the coolant, if that makes more sense.
To avoid spending pointless time in trial/error......... here is what i can figure out.
1) Disconnect the lower hose and drain coolant.

2) Reconnect lower hose and refill. I know that i need to burp the system to get the air out and on my other car, its a bolt on the intake/manifold runner.

My question(s) is...... do i also need to remove the bolt on the lower part of the block to drain out the coolant? Is the lower hose the lowest point of the system? Is the area that i bleed the system a bolt or a hose?

A detailed write in the "tech stickies" section would be helpful.
 

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Is there a better write up changing the coolant-antifreeze?
How much antifreeze do i need to mix to verify that i got all the air bubbles out? How much is used to change the coolant, if that makes more sense.
To avoid spending pointless time in trial/error......... here is what i can figure out.
1) Disconnect the lower hose and drain coolant.

2) Reconnect lower hose and refill. I know that i need to burp the system to get the air out and on my other car, its a bolt on the intake/manifold runner.

My question(s) is...... do i also need to remove the bolt on the lower part of the block to drain out the coolant? Is the lower hose the lowest point of the system? Is the area that i bleed the system a bolt or a hose?

A detailed write in the "tech stickies" section would be helpful.
I posted a complete list of the proceedure to change the coolant, from where to jack the car up to the loosening of and where the pet o is are on the car , try to find it because it’s quoted from the factory shop manual. Jack drivers side up slightly, open lower radiator hose , loosen and remove cap on reservoir, go to the rear loosen the hose on top of the engine till it bleeds leave it loose , loosen the block peacock bolt at rear wall of engine block let it all bleed out, then tighten again go back to the front put the radiator hose back on an pour antifreeze into the overflow until it comes out of the top of the engine hose , stop and titghen the engine hose up , titghen the overflow cap and start the engine and bring it to temperature then check for fullness and leaks. Start and do this with your engine cold. Good luck
 
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