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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again,
I have what may be a silly question but I don't know the answer so I'll ask. Does the cooling fan behind the radiator pull air from the front of the car back through the radiator or is the air going the other way from the back of the radiator to the front?
I'm asking because I just had to add a fan to the front of the radiator because the existing fan is going out. It says it comes set up as a pusher fan from the factory but the blades did not look right to me but then I started to wonder if I was not understanding puller and pusher correctly. Everything seemed to work fine for a couple days and then the A/C stopped working and the fan I added is not starting. Makes me wonder of I hooked it up backwards and maybe over heated something that caused the A/C to stop working.
I hope someone can clear up my confusion.
Thank you.
Brad
 

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air flow goes fro the front of the car, back.
Stock fan will pull air through the radiator, adding a fan on the front should Push Air through the radiator. When outside temps get colder, the A/C will not run as it shouldn't be needed. I am guessing you used the wires that go to the stock fan on the new fan in front. Mine worked for the few years I had the car and sold it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
air flow goes fro the front of the car, back.
Stock fan will pull air through the radiator, adding a fan on the front should Push Air through the radiator. When outside temps get colder, the A/C will not run as it shouldn't be needed. I am guessing you used the wires that go to the stock fan on the new fan in front. Mine worked for the few years I had the car and sold it.

Thank you jimvw57. I was assuming that was the way things worked but the more I thought about it the more I confused myself.

I have to look at the new fan again. The instructions said it was set up for pusher but looking at the fan blade I'm not so sure. Right now the A/C compressor will not kick on so the fan does not run. Got me to thinking that I may have done something wrong and over heated something or something else bad. I have no indicator lights on and I have pulled every fuse I can find and they are all good. I also run a temp line from the battery using jumper cables and the fan started so I know that is not burned out. I did not have enough heat at the time to solder the wires and had to use butt joints for connections so that may be a possibility but I doubt that one.
Any suggestions are appreciated. It has been suggested that the refrigerant may be low but I'm don't know if any can be added if the compressor will not start. I thought that was a requirement.
Brad
 

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There is a temp sensor in the car as well that checks the ambient temp for the AC too. If the motor temp gets above 215 ish, the fan kicks in too.
The fan blades are designed to work in either direction if it is a pusher/puller fan. Butt splices will work, but in an outdoor environment they should be sealed to keep the moisture out. Liquid electrical tape does a good job, or at least shrink tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There is a temp sensor in the car as well that checks the ambient temp for the AC too. If the motor temp gets above 215 ish, the fan kicks in too.
The fan blades are designed to work in either direction if it is a pusher/puller fan. Butt splices will work, but in an outdoor environment they should be sealed to keep the moisture out. Liquid electrical tape does a good job, or at least shrink tubing.

I will get the front pulled off again in a day or 2 when I get a day off and charge the A/C. I have found the port but it is hard to reach with the front still on (already bleeding so I won't try from the top). I also want to look at the fan blade again closer. I know it will work in either direction but I think it works better depending on which way it is mounted on the motor. Needs a little study yet.
I'll also fix the wiring permanent (soldered) when I'm happy with it. Now I also know for sure which way the fan is supposed to blow. Thanks jimvw57.


Brad
 

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I have an issue with this also and don’t want to star a new thread. I have a 2009 Pulse 451. It all started with the AC not turning on. I tried checking refrigerant levels and ruined the schradder valve, went in to replace and got refrigerant topped off, and the guy noticed the radiator fan wasn’t working. I took the car home and disassembled to the point I got the fan wires off, and there is no voltage to them when AC compressor is on (nor when engine is hot). So I dismounted SAM unit but it looks unlikely I will be able to cleanly get the relay out and a new one in. These relays are Omron g8hn and are really tiny. So I’m pondering my options. I’m thinking to install an outside fused relay with the start signal coming from the compressor ON (which is pin N11-10/2) and the power directly from the battery. Can the SAM unit be safely replaced? Any other points of advice? I really like this car and I usually drive it 20 minutes per day (that’s why I bought it), so the engine barely gets warm. However in summer outside temp reaches 110 F so I need the AC. I might also opt to have that fan on as soon as the car is on (trigger with the engine switch).
 

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I had not seen

I had not seen the SAM has spare switched outputs, as well as spare live outputs. So I don’t need a relay, I will just get a line out of a switched output, place a fuse and connect it to my fan.
As I initially thought this was a broken fan issue, I actually bought an aftermarket 14” universal blower fan, drilled some holes into the front bumper to secure it and installed it. I also ran some zip straps as backup on the fan grill. So I just need to buy a fuse holder, connect one end to the switched output and the other to the fan connector.
I do have a Scangauge and it shows no error codes on the unit, so i’m thinking that relay is stuck in the open position. I really can’t check it by running a magnet around the SAM while on, as that might activate a bunch of other things.
This is all thanks to other threads I’ve read with really great information.
 
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