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Discussion Starter #1
Recently my check engine light has come on on my 2010 Pure.
I've been reading around and I've only gotten multiple guesses on the issue, starting from over filling the tank to an issue with the Emissions control system.

Either way, I need to get it scanned. Only thing is, where can I do that? I took it in to gets its breaks done at the mechanics place I always take my vehicles to and they said that the code reader they have doesn't fit on my car and Ill need to take it to Mercedes.

I called Mercedes and they gave me an estimate of $200 just to diagnose the issue... Id prefer not to pay that :eek:

I also contacted a friend that works at a parts store about it and he said the same thing, that Ill need to take it to Mercedes because the one they have doesn't fit Smart cars.

Yet on this forum I've seen people taking their Smart cars into parts stores and having them read with no issues for free.. ? What kind of code reader is needed that I should specifically ask if they have it? Why are the people on here having theirs read no problem at a parts store yet every place I've asked about it says only the dealership will do it?
 

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Any OBDII code reader will read the standard codes. So they don't know what they are talking about. I bought a $20 cheapy, and it works fine for me.

Yes, if you want to dig deeper and get into either the MB specific codes, or talk to the body module or trans module, you will need a high dollar scanner. But for what you are looking for a standard scanner will work.
 

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Also check out the local auto parts places. they will read your code and give you the number. They won't reset it as they want to sell you the parts. Then you will know the code, and what type of reader will work for you. I wouldn't get too fancy as the cheaper ones will usually do the job. Save the high dollar one for your local mechanic to buy if he wants your business.

You do want a scanner that reads can-bus systems
 

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Be careful and read up on the cheap code readers. I had a 450 that I hooked up a regular OBD II reader and was rewarded with bad codes and an additional 1700 miles on my odometer. It might be an issue with the 450 only. I subsequently bought a Mercedes compatible reader from the 'bay and haven't had it happen on my 451. If you search the net for odometer jumping on Smart Cars you will see what I am talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input!
I drove all over the city today being told no where has one I can just use, only purchase and none cheaper than $70.
Also, the light shut off again.
I ended up finding someone I know that has one and they read the code history. It came up as p2188 rich idle. I've read it might have an issue with an air filter? Or O2 sensor? It's off now, if it comes back on what might it be?
 

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If it's resetting, going out, I don't think a clogged air filter is to blame. O2 sensor or its connection would make sense, or any other sensor which might go intermittent and cause a rich condition. Temp sensor? TPS?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not too sure how to check that on my vehicle and if it requires the obdii I won't be able to get it again for a while. My car drives fine, it has a few rough starts but I believe it's because it was reaching temperatures of -40 Celsius when it was doing that and I do not plug my car in. Now that the temperature here is back to -5 ish range it's starting normal. I'm thinking it might have to do with over filling the tank, pretty sure of it. The last few times I filled up I didn't do it myself I got the gas attendant to because I'm lazy when it comes to winter and getting out in the cold!!! I also think it might be affecting my fuel economy because my gas seems to be going down more than usual. Also attributed that to winter, but maybe the light had something to do with it? When the code was read my friend told me that the gas thing on the OBDii was reading at full, when my car said it was 2 bars under full?
 

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The gas gauges on these cars are really confusing. Sometimes the won't register full sometimes they do. At times when they say they are not full after filling up, drive about 30 miles and shut them off, they will say full when you restart, sometimes they don't. It is a 10 gal tank, but at about 8 1/2 -9 gallons, you will run out of gas.

Over the years, I have found the best method to fill them is to use the lowest automatic setting on the pump handle, let it fill and wash all the windows. The pump will click off, but keep washing (a timing thing) once you are done with the windows, restart filling again on the lowest setting. once it stops again, I usually go to the next nickle or dime just to even out the price) That's it. don't worry about the gas gauge until it gets down below 1/2 tank as they seem to be more accurate on the last half of the tank.

And yes, mpg will drop in colder months. They change the gas mixture for colder weather and MPG will get better once it warms up.
 

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At -40 I would suspect you will have a few issues as that is pretty darn cold for anything to work unless it was made specifically to handle those temps. most grease doesn't work too well when it is that cold which may be the problem. when it is that cold, I stay inside near a heat source. I never realized the -40C is the same as -40F. interesting....
 

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Oh my! And I thought +40F was cold here!!!! I'm surprised the Auto Parts stores could not pull codes for check engine light, maybe too cold and they don't want to go out? OBDII is supposed to be required/standardized for emissions no?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's Canadian weather for you. One week it's -40 next week it's -2: shorts and t shirt weather! Hehe
The light has remained off and hopefully won't come back on. I'll be cautious when filling up my car so the engine light stays off.
 
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