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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I am looking for a Current sensor for a 2015 ED. any information would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, i should have said, any information on where to buy one. in the USA, seems I got stiffed from over seas.
 

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OK, why do you want one and what is this thing's schematic, parts list, reason for being, etc. Does it have a proprietary chip inside? Can't you build your own that would be good enough?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the HV current sensor in my car is no longer working and I need to replace it. no one sells a new one so my only option is to hopefully find a used one someone has. if I can't find one i will be scrapping my car. The used one i bought from a scrap yard over in EU got "lost" in the mail.
 

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Did your current sensor just fail by itself or did you blow it trying to run charger thru it, as some have reported/alluded, or etc?
Also that source in Ukraine needs to be blacklisted in this forum I should think.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
failed because i did not remove it from the system when i charged the battery.

everyone wants $500 or more for the used sensors. looks like i will be scraping this POS.

Did your current sensor just fail by itself or did you blow it trying to run charger thru it, as some have reported/alluded, or etc?
Also that source in Ukraine needs to be blacklisted in this forum I should think.
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How do you know your battery (93 cells) has been repaired? Like discharging each of the three modules (120vdc) thru a 100 watt filament lightbulb yields acceptable results and re-charging goes normally. I'm just thinking here what I might do if either of my 2 batteries could be repaired, which they cannot be as they each have at least a few dead cells. Thus I'm assuming that my 2 sensors are both good since I avoided including them in any charging current. But I do not know for a fact that they are good. Is there a known scheme to test them directly like resistance measurement using a high impedance scale?

I bought a similar POS at auction, I like the term POS for these 'perfect condition low mileage SmartEVs with dead battery pack', and have decided to attempt an inverter takeover to get it running again. Project is on hold until summer. Just received the inverter from San Diego to use with the motor and accel pedal that are already on the bench here.

Sorry for the 14 day delay,
VR PNW USA
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Current sensor is a "smart" sensor. not like the POS car. made by Bosch and it communicates with the BMS using LIN. Scan tool indicates fault code. wired into the sensor using LIN indicates the chip is dead.


How do you know your battery (93 cells) has been repaired? Like discharging each of the three modules (120vdc) thru a 100 watt filament lightbulb yields acceptable results and re-charging goes normally. I'm just thinking here what I might do if either of my 2 batteries could be repaired, which they cannot be as they each have at least a few dead cells. Thus I'm assuming that my 2 sensors are both good since I avoided including them in any charging current. But I do not know for a fact that they are good. Is there a known scheme to test them directly like resistance measurement using a high impedance scale?

I bought a similar POS at auction, I like the term POS for these 'perfect condition low mileage SmartEVs with dead battery pack', and have decided to attempt an inverter takeover to get it running again. Project is on hold until summer. Just received the inverter from San Diego to use with the motor and accel pedal that are already on the bench here.

Sorry for the 14 day delay,
VR PNW USA
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Any way to test Current Sensor while batt box is open? I have 2 open batt boxen with, hopefully, good sensors since I avoided connecting to them or conducting thru them. At a remote location which I'll get to in a couple weeks, weather permitting.

I don't see any future use for these sensors as I plan to run this ED3 in DIY fashion. So I might as well sell one and keep the other for a spare for my daily driver ED3.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you LIN, you can power the sensor up and check for communication. if not it will need to be installed into a car and fault codes check.


Any way to test Current Sensor while batt box is open? I have 2 open batt boxen with, hopefully, good sensors since I avoided connecting to them or conducting thru them. At a remote location which I'll get to in a couple weeks, weather permitting.

I don't see any future use for these sensors as I plan to run this ED3 in DIY fashion. So I might as well sell one and keep the other for a spare for my daily driver ED3.
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...everyone wants $500 or more for the used sensors. looks like i will be scraping this POS.
Awesome that you were able to “get a bunch” of sensors to fix your ED!

And what is your friendly price, shipped to the US?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry to say i cannot sell the ones i have or disclose who i received them from because they are engineering "samples" that are not for sale to the public. But i will let you know that Software V 01.10 will work in place of V00.20 on a 13-15. the part number is the same Bosch part number, but like everyone knows Bosch has an NDA with MB and cannot share the specs or sell the sensor to the public.

I also hate to say, with all the car / motorcycle clubs i have worked with over the years. By far the Smart car people are the worst money hungry, rude, arrogant i have come across. I'm thinking of throwing away the left overs.
 
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