Smart Car of America Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,


I would love the back of my smart to sit a tad bit lower. I have 2009 Brabus.


Possible to cut one coil in the back and it will work?
I notice the coil spirals inward but there is still and area around it where it looks like the coil would sit in that is slightly beveled.


Tristan,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Instead of cutting................

Instead of cutting the O.E.M. rear springs.I rcommend SmartMadness rear
only lowering spings.I recently installed them on my 2013. Progressive wound
spring,lowers rear slightly,noticeable improvement in cornering and rocking-
horse gear changes.Very nice springs!!Inexpensive!!........... Unless you own
your lift and cutting torch,the SM springs would be a cheaper and better choise..............................
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i bave a lift and stuff to cut the springs in literally seconds. my question is can the coil be cut and put back in and used. i am not worried about the ride. just can i cut a coil and drive off in the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
ok question here, changing the rear height also changes the front angle to the road..
and front steering geometry, mainly castor...might not be much bit still i wonder..
Steveg.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
912 Posts
If anything, lowering the back end should take some one-wheel bump-steer out of the rear geometry. Take a look at the angle of the lateral arms at stock ride height.

A little more caster should add a smidge of straight-line stability ... not necessarily a bad thing.

As for cutting coils, I wouldn't. Normally, coil springs are shaped on the ends so that they seat properly against the spring seat, and it's a gradual transition into the seating area so that there is not a stress concentration there. Chop a coil off, and it's not going to be like that.

"do it right, or don't do it at all" ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,869 Posts
I see no reason to leave SCOA, these guys are only making suggestions and bringing up some valid questions. But if you must, you can just stop coming here and change your contact info so you no longer get any updates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,191 Posts
The coils are pig tailed and can't be cut. One wrap would take all the ride out and you would be on the bump stop. I've cut many coils to drop cars, but I bought Eibachs for the smart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
He asked a simple question, and the simple answer was no. It really doesn't matter how you answered. He wanted the answer to be yes. He's going to do it, and it's going to be a huge pain in the ass. In a couple months, he will be back, with a different name, and will never mention this. :/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
my name is not nor has ever been Tristangen, but I have a question about SM progressive springs.
I just installed mine. It looks to me like the part of the spring with the coils close togeather is coil bound. In other words. The soft part of the spring is bottomed out. Front and rear. With no body in the car.
I bought them used. Could they be a bad set!

What do y'all think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
912 Posts
my name is not nor has ever been Tristangen, but I have a question about SM progressive springs.
I just installed mine. It looks to me like the part of the spring with the coils close togeather is coil bound. In other words. The soft part of the spring is bottomed out. Front and rear. With no body in the car.
I bought them used. Could they be a bad set!

What do y'all think?
That's how "progressive" springs work.

When the spring is unloaded, none of the coils are touching so all of the coils are "active". When the spring gets compressed to a certain point, some of the coils start touching each other and now that part of the spring is no longer "active". Further compression of the spring has to be done over fewer active coils - that raises the effective spring rate. All progressive-rate coil springs are like this.

That it is into the higher spring rate at the car's nominal ride height (with some coils in contact, i.e. no longer active) just means that the lower spring rate only has an effect on rebound (i.e. when your wheels drop into a dip). That is not necessarily a bad thing; it can help the wheels follow the contour of the road through the dip.

In many cases, the "progressive" function on lowering springs really only means that with the suspension completely unloaded (extended), there is still some preload to the spring to hold it against the spring seats, stopping it from bouncing around and rattling. If you made a straight-rate spring shorter and with a higher spring rate, it could very well reach its free length before the damper is fully extended, and thus rattle around loosely every time you go over a big-enough dip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
I just sent SM a email.
I thought a progressive spring was to have a soft part to give a soft ride on the hwy then a sitff part to hep control body lean druing curvs and or barking acceleration. These springs don't have any soft part left to give.

 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top