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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been written about before, but I can't find a definitive answer.
I was told yesterday I have a cylinder 1 misfire on my 2008 Smart Fortwo. It has only 90,000 miles, but from what I've read, it's going to cost me several thousand dollars to get this fixed.

Does anyone have any advice?
Is it possible to take it to a non SmartCar dealership for repair? Won't the dealer be much more expensive?

Am I just screwed?

Thanks for the help.
 

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A few posts have noted changing out the spark plugs can solve the problem. Some have also tried varying "doses" of Marvel Mystery Oil. 90k is just the exact mileage when the original type spark plugs would be due to change (every 30k miles), so just a couple of options to consider....
 

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A cylinder misfire could be bad plugs, flaky ignition coil,or just a dirty injector. Start with the cheap stuff first.

I had a misfire on my daughter’s Pontiac Vibe that turned out to me nothing more than a $20 intake manifold gasket.

So no, it sure doesn’t mean you are screwed.
 

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You need to get a Compression test... Better yet a Leak down test... ~ It will show burned valve ~ Cost more than the car is worth to fix ~ Your Screwed. ~ Trade it "NOW" for a different car ~ Buy a NEW car with a 10 Year Warranty, and "Be Happy All Day Long" ~ You know what two brands I'm talking about ~ Justify this by calling It a UPGRADE ~...YUP
 

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Can anyone explain to me why there seems to be a burnt valve issue with this motor ? Is this a common occurance in high mileage engines ? Is this issue happening on the intake side or exhaust side more often ? Is this due to not adjusting the valve clearances (I think they are adjustable shim and bucket style although I could be wrong so don’t beat me up on this ) OR is it some abuse that owners sometimes forget to mention when a mechanical issue happens ? . I find it hard to believe that this rendition of this motor which has been used in a vast amount of vehicles in Europe for some time is prone to this considering all the r & d that has been put into it . It’s all just questions.
The thought of sidelining a vehicle for a burnt valve without any repair attempt seems harsh. I would be jacking up my ride , removing the motor assembly and looking for some heads or rebuilding them . Worse case is you end up with a sellable project , and part out what’s good . Motors can be fixed , and I know I’m lucky to have garagespace that would allow it .
 

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Can anyone explain to me why there seems to be a burnt valve issue with this motor ?
The thought of sidelining a vehicle for a burnt valve without any repair attempt seems harsh. I would be jacking up my ride , removing the motor assembly and looking for some heads or rebuilding them . Worse case is you end up with a sellable project , and part out what’s good . Motors can be fixed , and I know I’m lucky to have garagespace that would allow it .
Harsh. Not really.
While I applaud you for having the mechanical abilities tools and room to accomplish such a task, not many do, nor should they be expected to.
We are talking about a 10 year old car, With close to 100,000 miles of wear and its worth is somewhere around $2000 - $3300 properly running of course.
The repair, if it is a burnt valve comes down to economics. For the OP this does not sound like it would be a "simple" repair for them to do themselves. It sound like they would using a mechanic. I would guess $1000 - $1500 in labor costs.
Question is
' Is it worth spending 50% of the value of a 1000,000 mile /10 year old car on a single repair?'
 

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Yes your correct . I just have an affliction to keep my vehicles no matter what. Even if it takes my months to fix it . I know most don’t have that option .
 

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I was told yesterday I have a cylinder 1 misfire on my 2008 Smart Fortwo. It has only 90,000 miles, but from what I've read, it's going to cost me several thousand dollars to get this fixed.

Is it possible to take it to a non SmartCar dealership for repair? Won't the dealer be much more expensive?
Welcome to SCoA aka The Asylum . . . :welcome:

What was the basis of the "cylinder 1 misfire" diagnosis, is the engine throwing a code? Could the answer to your question(s) be available from that "messenger."

M-B dealer rates can be higher than your local Euro car auto shop where a simple leak down or compression test should be able to confirm your destiny. Unfortunately, if it is a burnt valve the labor dollars will add up quickly regardless of where you go! :shrug:

For your reading pleasure . . .

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f353/cel-cylinder-1-misfire-50043/index8.html
 

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Can anyone explain to me why there seems to be a burnt valve issue with this motor ?
Bear in mind that burnt valves have been an "occasional" issue with the 451 Mitsubishi 3B2 engine and thus far has not manifest itself in the new 453 Renault engine.

Failures of the Mitsu engine are offset by many high mileage success stories!

For you reading pleasure . . .

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f4/who-has-most-miles-who-s-over-50-000-a-29591/#post1573962
Thanks for the link and info .. positive thoughts on my 453 . Thank you .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, my worst fears are confirmed -- the whole engine needs to be rebuilt.
I bought this car 2 years ago with 80,000 miles from a dealer. Now it's shot.

I guess I was a fool. You can bet I'm not buying a smart car again.
 

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The whole engine? I'd get a second opinion just to be sure. More than likely it needs a new cylinder head or a head rebuild. :)
 

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Well, my worst fears are confirmed -- the whole engine needs to be rebuilt.
I bought this car 2 years ago with 80,000 miles from a dealer. Now it's shot.

I guess I was a fool. You can bet I'm not buying a smart car again.
I'm sorry to hear that.
What diagnostic tests were done and what was found to be the problem?
 

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The whole engine? I'd get a second opinion just to be sure. More than likely it needs a new cylinder head or a head rebuild. :)
What would be your estimate of cost having an independent mechanic do the work including the parts?
That's on a 10 year old car with close to 100,000 miles with a running condition value of $2000 - $3300.
 

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Don't know. Just questioning the "whole engine" diagnosis. Whether it's worth repairing is a separate issue. :)
 

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Don't know. Just questioning the "whole engine" diagnosis. Whether it's worth repairing is a separate issue. :)
I agree with the second opinion.....as long as it isn't costing $100 per diagnoses.
Depending on his options, he may have just taken his smart to a mechanic who didn't want to fart around with it. I mean it still is an Low Volume Imported Foreign Automobile that not all mechanics work on. As I have read in other posts even MB dealers have to have specialized trained smart car mechanics and equipment.
 

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Some of the same problems.

I know this has been written about before, but I can't find a definitive answer.
I was told yesterday I have a cylinder 1 misfire on my 2008 Smart Fortwo. It has only 90,000 miles, but from what I've read, it's going to cost me several thousand dollars to get this fixed.

Does anyone have any advice?
Is it possible to take it to a non SmartCar dealership for repair? Won't the dealer be much more expensive?

Am I just screwed?

Thanks for the help.
I know this has been written about before, but I can't find a definitive answer.
I was told yesterday I have a cylinder 1 misfire on my 2008 Smart Fortwo. It has only 90,000 miles, but from what I've read, it's going to cost me several thousand dollars to get this fixed.

Does anyone have any advice?
Is it possible to take it to a non SmartCar dealership for repair? Won't the dealer be much more expensive?

Am I just screwed?

Thanks for the help.
Some of this is a repeat and a Smart Electric for sale correction.

I took a two hour drive. It has been cold in mid state NY for an extended period of time.

No sooner did I read your post I went out for a bit.

At the first stop, I felt a skip, or miss. It was so smooth before yesterday, just a solid engine sound.

The engine skip was more irritating than the wind noise.

The rubber molding on the window, attached to the door slid down into the door. I checked the other side and saw there was no gap.

I lowered the window and at least I was able to grip it with both fingers and pull it upwards to try and close the gap. There was some success.

The pull up closed the gap a bit. The gap between the little piece at the top closed but I couldn’t get them to meet.

The other side had no gap. The wind noise was the same. Would it be all right to use WD-40 on the softer rubber molding on the door posts ? Just a little on a rag.

It does sound like it is coming from the top but it's too loud to be a quarter inch gap.

I believe it's all because of the cold and humidity. I had to roll the window down to drop something in a post office outdoor mail box.

The window made a pop noise or frozen to the window, pop, which probably pulled the stiff rubber piece down initially.
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Tranny problems mentioned in another post came and went.

In economy drive and auto shifting, I had to accelerate down my hill to make it shift properly.

It would stay in first too long, then bang or pop close to an over rev condition into second and third, etc.

I gave in to pressing on the gas to make it shift normally.

It seemed the computer recognized it was faulting and self adjusted. I don’t know that did it, I don’t think there is a rational explanation for it. Not a problem now, it just coasts and shifts at the right time.
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The windshield cover that flew off the car and was retrieved, was indeed broken. I found another piece of it in the windshield wiper well.
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The tire pressure light was on so I went out and tried to get them corrected in one degree weather.

The suspension was rock hard. I like a tight ride but this was really bad. The warm up, 55 degrees today, made the tire pressure in the 40 psi range.

This could account for the bad ride too. I lowered the pressure in all four tires.
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The pads were frozen to the discs. I thought I had the emergency brake on.

There was a bang. One or more wheels. Sounded like it came from the back.
I might have done some damage. Not sure. It seems normal. It has happened in the past.
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There was a post on trying to rev the car in park or neutral. Today, the same thing happened to me after I had checked and lowered the tire pressures. I don’t know if this is a normal computer thing to prevent engine damage or not.
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The 1 degree temp which held there for nearly two weeks had a lot to do with the problems. It was the only time I felt happy it was a lease car. There has to be a lot more colder weather than that in the US.
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I have to correct the Smart Coupe for two, for two sale at Baker Motors in MA. It is a 2015 Electric, all white with 2000 miles on it. It's coming off lease in the next days to a week. It looks like it's in excellent shape but with one year of batttery warranty and MB not doing the assure soon, I didn’t feel comfortable at 11,000.

Although I did find some at 9999$ used, it was too much of a risk. Most of the 2015's were between 5000-6000$ No service centers close to me at all.
 

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With so many lightly used smarts around, it is hard to justify dumping in too much on an engine rebuild when for a bit more you could have a newer car. $3000 for a rebuild (independent shop) vs $4,000 for a 2013 smart with 15,000 miles...
 

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The interesting thing is that even after ten years, the burned value issue doesn’t have a definitive cause. It sometimes just “happens” to a smart. We’ve seen burned valves kill a smart as young as 30k miles (I think there was even an instance under 30k), and as old as over 100k. Thankfully it’s not a terribly common issue, but it’s still weird.

Judging on your comment that it drives well now that it’s warm, you now get to come out of the frying pan of potential burned valves, and get into the frying pan of “misfiring in cold weather” where I’ve been at since my car was new. Thankfully there doesn’t seem to be any negative long term impact, my engine happily chugs along even after 140,000 miles of changing seasons. :)
 
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