FRONT END WRITE UP
open your access panel and look for the strut towers, they will have 3, 13mm bolts each.
One side has a windshield wiper actuator motor that is INCREDIBLY OBSTRUCTIVE.
I didn't remove it because it's complex and had position sensors I can't reset myself.
Remove these 13mm bolts, there are 6 total (ratcheting spanner is pretty much the only way to reach these, a 1/4 drive rather won't even fit on the wiper actuator side)
Crack your 17mm lug nuts loose and Jack up the car from the front cross member
Remove the wheels
At this point in the weekend it started pouring and I finished in the rain but couldn't take photos. I will describe here in detail what to do and will edit with photos later. Thanks for your understanding.
Once the wheels are off the first thing you must do is remove the t30 holding the ABS and brake line captive. Keep this tiny bolt and washer in a safe place that you'll remember.
Then you must remove the sway bar end link from the sway bar only (adjustable end link is included in the kit) This is easiest with an impact gun but mine were too stuck and I had to employ vice grips at Max lock on the rubber boot on the ball end side.
After removing the end link from the sway bar you will have to crack the two knuckle bolts and nuts loose and remove them, hold one side captive with a wrench and remove the opposite side with a ratchet or impact gun
At this point the shock assembly should basically be falling on you
DO NOT LET IT PINCH THE ABS WIRE
The side without the wiper actuator is quite straightforward, it retains all factory mounting including the brake line which uses the factory t30
###This is very important###
To avoid headache, use an impact gun to tighten the sway bar end link onto the strut bracket before installing into the knuckle. It will be unreachable once installed (the sway bar side is unreachable once installed too but you can't attach that one preemptively)
The top is swapped from bolts to studs so you simply slide the strut up into the slots in the strut towers place a washer and nut onto each stud and tighten.
The new nuts for the strut towers are 12mm
Place the knuckle bolts in, and attach the brake line bracket
Drop the adjustment Allen into the strut top (I again used -1 on adjustment and likely will only change it to be a little softer)
Now for the side with the actuator. This side sucks. Really really sucks. I recommend a partner.
Slide the strut into the tower slots just far enough that you can still put your hand in behind and get a washer on the hard to reach stud and start threading the nut (this took me 4 tries)
Once you've got that you've nearly won the battle, install same as the other side (note, if you do not remove the actuator you will 100% need a ratcheting 12mm spanner, you will not be able to tighten this nut with a standard spanner as the stud design will be in the way. )
It's at this point that you adjust the ride height in the front. There are LOADS of tutorials for D2s so I won't go into that.
My ride height isn't quite where I want and preload needs increased by about 1/2" in the front due to a bottoming issue in hard bumps. But here is how it looks before any real dialing in. The back is as low as it goes and while I wish it was lower it wouldn't be practical anymore
And lastly here is the before with the smart madness lowering springs in (for sale in another thread)
It dropped 1" from the smart madness springs in the rear, and I haven't dialed in the front to my liking, but it currently sits at 1/2" lower and will likely be about 1 and ¼" lower after some dialing in.
It's important to note that my alignment is so poor now that these are in that it's nearly undrivable and ESC doesn't understand what's going on so I have an esc code.